Pulling the transmission!!!

I am planning on pulling the transmission in the deuce later this week to clean the clutch and bell housing up from my recovery mission. Currently the plan is to open the windshields and place a 4x4 across the cab and pull and lower the tranny with a 1 ton chain hoist. Then pull the flywheel and replace the rear main and carrier gasket while I have the tranny out.

I guess I'm looking for reassurance from someone who has pulled one of these before that the hoist and 4x4 will be heavy enough to support the thing without breaking the tranny or me in the process. Anybody have any idea how much the transmission in a deuce weighs? Another thought, I plan on having the stop rod pulled out in the cab, and the battery disconnected, but I'm not sure if the crank will turn when I'm torquing the flywheel bolts or not. How in the world do I make sure this thing will not try to start with me working on it????

Also, citizensoldier, you told me to check and clean the screwback for the input shaft while I had it out. Can you tell me how to do that, I haven't found anything like that in the TM yet.

Thanks

I use 2 2X4 on on each side of the center post but a 4X4 will work just fine also.

I used an engine hoist with a 2 ft extension and it lowered the tranny just fine. The 4X4 will be plenty strong enough. If you tranny doesn't already have some lifting tabs on the corner top cover bolts, make a couple out of a bit of scrap metal to help with lowering it.

However, that said, I would get about 5 cans of brake cleaner and squirt it up in the bell housing while it is running. It couldn't hurt and it could save you a few hours labor.

Thinking the transmission is around 300 pounds. 4x4 will work fine over that short of a span. If you have a soft top(or want to remove hardtop), a chain hoist to a beam overhead works good. You will break the bolts off before you crank the motor over, and the fuel shutoff should be pulled.

Also will need a line up shaft to center the clutch disk when installing the pressure plate. I made one out of wood on the lathe, or if you have access to one, an input shaft out of another transmission works good.

It's not a bad job, couple of hours should have the transmission out.

Dennis

Dennis, and the rest of you

Thanks for the information. I have the soft top, but I'll be setting the 4x4's on each side of the center post for the windshield. I like the idea of overkill. After I finally build my pole barn big enough for the deuce, I'll have a better hoist on a movable gantry in it, but for now I gotta make due with what I got.

B_o_T...I already cleaned it up with the brake cleaner on the way home from WI, it was still slipping with the load of the lube trailer behind it on some bigger hills. I figure since I have the time before I can actually drive it legally, I might as well do it right.

Thanks again for the input guys.

I'm in the process of getting mine back together. I used an engine hoist extended all the way out, so I think a 4x4 would be plenty fine. I didn't have anything to use as a disk alignment tool, so I just made one. A deep well 1/2" (3/8" drive) socket fit into the pilot breaing almost perfectly. Then, a deep well 3/4" (1/2" drive) impact socket was almost the diameter of the disk. A little macking tape helped make up the difference, and I mean a little, once around (maybe twice?) and that was a SNUG fit. Getting the transmission to line up going back in is the hard part, at least when you're doing it alone.

I'm going to call my local NAPA tomorrow, Rusty over there is pretty good at tracking stuff down. Another member said in another post to get the alignment tool for a Chevy C40 or C70, 1 1/2" diameter 10 spline tool to line them up. I'll sick Rusty on it, and I'm sure I'll have one before I do the job. I'll do my best to take lots of pictures for you hounds out there who love to look at photos

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/deuce-...anny-failure-atleast-happened-close-home.html

page 2 shows my make shift hoist i made

FM, that's a pretty slick hoist. I'm sure I could rig something up, but I would like to have a chain hoist anyway, so for the $50 that china freight wants for the 1 ton hoist I'll just pick one up. I have a really nice 2 1/2 ton hoist with a hand driven trolley torn apart in the basement, once I get the pole barn build and some beams set, I'll be putting that sucker in.

I've used everything mentioned above and then some. The tranny is under 200#, I can carry it. 2 4x4s is really overkill. I also had the military tranny hoist but didn't care for it. There is a trick with the 4x4 method. I run a chain around the 4x4 but on top I run it through a piece of pipe just wider than the 4x4. This gives you the ability to move the chain fore and aft to move the tranny in and out. I've done many and have never had help yet!

That's a GREAT idea. I like that, I would have never thought of something like that unless I had to wrestle with more than just the one. It's hard to believe that the tranny is that light. Something moving a truck weighing in with a GVW of over 23000# highway weight I would expect to be a lot heavier. Although I told my wife today that I have seen bigger trannys on pick-ups.

Thanks for the tips and information guys, this is just one of the many many reasons I spend so much time on this forum. You guys are the best!!!!!!

Make sure to pick up some xtra groceries before you pull the old stone boat apart.

On torquing the flywheel bolts...

I installed the transmission/engine adapter (aluminum piece) to the engine, and inserted 8 of the transmission bolts to where they would bottom out on the rear facing surface of the flywheel. They had sufficient clamping force to prevent the engine from trying to turn over. Only tighten them a little bit, as they are threaded into aluminum. With 8 of them tightened down, the engine will not turn.

I wish I had taken a few pictures, but I was under a time constraint to get it done.

If you are on a concrete floor, the trans jack from Harbor Frieght will work just fine.

What was everyone's trick to getting the transmission back in. I'm fighting with trying to get the trans to line up with the pilot bearing/splines. I'm using a flashlight and extend-able mirror to make sure the splines are lined up. I can get them in line, but I can't get the trans centered up, it's always off in one direction by maybe 3/8".

Doc,
The groceries are all in for the week..... Thanks for the concern though.

The tranny jack is a great Idea (I've already thought about it), but since I don't have a shop big enough yet, I'm doing it out in the gravel parking area.

FMJ and I used a wooden dowel with tightly wrapped electrical tape get the clutch centered. Put the trans in gear and turn the output shaft to get the splines to line up. It was the easiest trans to put in of all ones I have done.

Jacob, I took out the 6 bolts that hold the inspection plate on, at the bottom of the bell. It helped tremendously to get it lined up.

I just did the tranny 3 weeks ago, used a jack and that went well. To line her back up, get it close and then turn the output flange by hand, sometimes you can feal the shaft splines as they go past the splines on the clutch. I also but two long bolts in the tranny near the top to help with alignment, the temptation is to use those bolts to draw it in, that works fine if aligned and could damage things greatly if not aligned.

I checked with NAPA about the alignment tool and I think they qouted $50 or more I can't remember, a local mech. shop gave me an old plastic tool that worked fine. Steel would be better but it got the job done.

Also check the levers on the pressure plate that they are all the same height, if they are not the thro out bearing hits one before the others. My old plate was off enough that one lever was always touching the bearing and it won't last long if thats the case, the clutch disc was like new with a mfg. date of 2002 so the military did this not long ago.

Take your time and RTFM and you should be ok. Also take the thro out shaft lever off while you have the tranny off, this will save you alot of time if it needs adjusting. Hope this helps.

I just picked up some bolts to put to get it roughly aligned. They're 3.5" and wouldn't want to drawn in the trans with bolts. Heard horror stories about that. I probably won't be able to get back on it until this weekend.