Installed remote brake reservoir today

Hey guys. I thought you might want to take a peek at my remote reservoir setup that I just installed on the M109.

I know others have done this upgrade, but I chose to do things a bit differently. I didn't like the rubber hose running under the cab. Also there was talk of some hoses don't play well with the DOT 5. So, I eliminated all of that. I cut off the little hose barb from the reservoir base, and tapped a 1/8npt for the tubing connector. Then I replaced the vent elbow on top of the MC cap. I ran 1/4 tubing from the reservoir to the MC. Filled it up. It works great, and I mounted it so I can see it under the heater hose if I flip out the side panel. I plan to get a couple of clamps with rubber to attach it to the cab mount and keep it from rubbing and possibly hitting the clutch pedal.

And more pics:

Nice mod want to do this to my deuce. Can we get the part numbers and where you order them from. PM plse.

Here is a link to Dabtl's post on the subject, and he has listed the part numbers. We both bought them from Pegasus Racing. http://www.pegasusautoracing.com/
http://www.steelsoldiers.com/deuce/42401-remote-brake-fluid-reservoir-4.html#post475282

The tubing and fittings I got from Lowe's Home improvement.

Summit Racing has them too.

Nice setup

I like it a lot. That's going to be my next mod. It's a terrible job to check the fluid now, if I just had to pop the hood I would check it a lot more often.

Even though it was time consuming, I used to check it before I drove, every time. Now it will be so much quicker, makes it part of the walk around inspection.

Snarky said:

I like it a lot. That's going to be my next mod. It's a terrible job to check the fluid now, if I just had to pop the hood I would check it a lot more often.

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Nah, with this setup it takes 12.4 seconds to flip the two levers down and drop the side panel to check the fluid. A lot easier then opening the hood.

Since you use the vent hole to now act as your filling point does the remote container vent like the MC did, or does it make the need for the venting go away? If you don't have a vent hooked up at all did you plug the vent line copper to prevent something from getting in there?

Hey Dan,
The cap on the remote is vented. So it will act just like the vent tube on the MC. I just have to make sure I don't submerge the truck that high!

I used a plug to plug the T connection where the other vent line ran.

Ferroequinologist said:

Hey Dan,
I just have to make sure I don't submerge the truck that high!

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If you get water that high you're going to have alot of other problems to worry about .

Nice. I'm ordering parts to do this conversion right now, and I think I'll follow your lead and use hardline.

m16ty said:

If you get water that high you're going to have alot of other problems to worry about .

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Like what ? I have pushed water over my hood worst problem long term changed diff lube replaced bad seal that let water in.

I was going to do mine like that, but instead put it in the cab in the corner behind the driver seat. Then I could see it each time.

One question is, if the fluid fills from the reservoir, what about trapped air in the line from the reservoir to the MC? That is, you can fill the res. And does the fluid now properly run down the tube and let any air escape up into the reservoir?

It seems like either way you have to get rid of the air.

OPCOM said:

...if the fluid fills from the reservoir, what about trapped air in the line from the reservoir to the MC? That is, you can fill the res. And does the fluid now properly run down the tube and let any air escape up into the reservoir?

It seems like either way you have to get rid of the air.

Click to expand...

The answer to this will depend entirely on your plumbing... The air trapped here does not need to be removed. It is not part of the pressure system, and in fact in an original arrangement there is supposed to be air there. The pressure system doesn't start until just below the original resivoir on the original master cylinder. It is not "sealed" until you start to push down on the pedal.

Option A is that all tubing is inclined uphill, and yes the air will eventually burp it's self out.
Option B is that your plumbing is not all "uphill" all (or some) of the air above the originally specified level will stay there.

The difference being, with your remote resivoir, instead of replacing "lost" brake fluid with air, it will be replaced with brake fluid in either case. Thus keeping the original brake fluid level in the original resivoir even if there is a leak, up to and until of course you deplete the new resivoir. And of course the convenience of checking it.

Condensation from this air is not an issue, as the fluid in your new resivoir will "seal" the air so that it does not circulate with fresh air, Just like the trap under your kitchen sink, thus there is no place for moisture to enter. Moisture entering from your new resivoir vent and the air on top of that of course follows the same rules and precautions as the old vent.

So no, no worries about "bleeding" the new plumbing. It will or it won't, and so long as the original resivoir is at an appropriate level before you first hook it up, there are no worries either way.

I just ordered this setup -

Amazon.com: Tilton 7/8" master cylinder kit (remote kit, small and large reservoirs): Automotive

Comes with everything and a few EXTRA parts.

34 bux shipped to the house. (looks like I got the last cheap one - price seems to have gone up)

Did my install today. A little different than some of the others - a hybrid of sorts. I checked out the part numbers listed in various threads and got all of that and more for 34 dollars shipped off of Amazon. Must be a mom and pop operation because I bought the last kit they had (in that size). Package came shipped in a shoebox. If you search on the link post in my previous thread he has different sized kits left for 30 dollars. Kit size DOES NOT matter, becuase you don't use the master cylinder provided. Kit comes with meduim and large reservoir and some rubber line.

I decided to go with an in cab mount since I'm a pretty lazy guy. That and it made the install easier. I had no problems using all rubber hose, but the kit only came with 18 inches. I decided not to try and find any more because depending on who you talk to either it will be fine or it will eat the rubber hose. I didn't want to switch completely over to copper line because with the week I've been having, I could see that getting screwed up. So, I used both. I put an elbow off the cap and ran copper tubing into the cab corner. I bought a nice grommet, but the cab floor is too thick. I wrapped electric tape around it for now and will be searching for a better idea. At the end of the copper I install a nipple adapter and ran hose provided with the kit the rest of the way. Kit came with no hose clamps. I guess they think its tight enough. I installed clamps.

I'll keep an eye on it for awhile because I expect some air will work it's way out. Overall I'm happy with it.