5ton winch repairs?

Never even thought about that till you mentioned it Glen. I have the chain and hook off the 5ton. I went and compared it to the one on my deuce. Same size. The one on the deuce is brand new. Glad you said something, now Im going to swap them before I sell the deuce.

just take a tourch and cut the cable if the cable is bad, no point in fighting that weight

We discussed the chains before and determined they are the same for the 2.5 ton and 5 ton trucks.

73m819 said:

just take a tourch and cut the cable if the cable is bad, no point in fighting that weight

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I thought about that but after looking at it I dont think its that bad. If possible I want to see how far down the line to where it looks like it was kinked and if its not to far I may cut it off to there and keep the rest.

Be Careful the Duece and 5 ton chains are the same but the Swedge is different on the 5 ton because, the 5 ton uses 5/8 cable and the Duece has 1/2 inch cable !!

Roger that.

Just did some work on my winch also 5 ton. Don't have a torch but a small hand grinder with cut-off blade works great. Gives you a nice clean cut.

Jeff, I have one of those little Makita grinders and a bunch of cut off disks if you want to trim your cable with it. It will zip through cable pretty quickly. Glen

I have both a torch and a grinder with cut off wheels. Im all set to f something up beyond repair.

It is still sitting on my bench to many other projects right now... on day I'll get to it.

Vinny

Want help Jeff? Between the two of us you might have left over parts to sell.

I thought I was the only one that has parts left over after reassembling something.

I need to take the winch apart on my M51A2. The pin was sheared when I got it and I can't disengage the handle on top. You know the one you're not suposed to hammer on. I haven't got up the nerve to take it apart yet, I'm afraid it will be full of water. The truck was marked for flood relief only ahd we've all seen how NG uses trucks in floods.

When I pulled the drain plugs yesterday I was surprised to see nothing come out. I opened the side cover with the bull/worm gear and found no oil or water, there was a small amount of rust on the worm gear. (Thats the one on the input shaft right?) But when I opened the brake housing it was completely rusted.

They come apart real easy. The seals are not cheap. I got mine all torn down then got layed off and no money to put it back together

On page 2 of that pdf, what does "LL" (the dog clutch) engage into? Does it fit into a matching "dog eared" surface on the drum? What Im having a hard time figuring out from just looking at TM's and pictures is the fact that I can spin the worm gear several revelutions and it will not spin the drum (I think I have the clutch part way out but not all the way out) but then after spinning the worm gear I can spin the drum by hand up to a point that it hits something and stops. Spin the worn gear some more then I can spin the drum by hand again some more until it hits something again. Its as if while turning the worm gear I am moving that stopping point farther ahead and it allows the drum to turn that much more. I would thing that the "ears" on the clutch would fit into a machined in surface and not have any play in it and the clutch would either be "in" or "out", no middle ground with "slop" in it.

Jeff, the attached pics should help explain your observation. Although they are from a 10K winch, parts are pretty much the same type.
You should be able to rotate the drum by hand 50-60º, to one or the other direction, with the clutch lever engaged.

G.

Thank you gringeltaube, Thats what I was hoping for. I was afraid there might have been a broken piece that I had just been chasing around the drum. I had just printed out the pages I need to do the tear down. Not sure I need to do that now. Still would like to know why it wont disengage. And since it obviously needs new seals and gaskets (lack of oil when I pulled the plugs) I think I might just tear into it just to satisfy my curiousity.

jwright said:

They come apart real easy........

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Just wondering what type of bearing you found on the worm shaft???
In the diagram above, item "K" with the part no. 700287 is specified to be either an angular contact ball bearing #7309 or a barrel roller bearing #20309, according to this page: 3110-00-554-3929, 20309-1, 315129, 700287, 7309C1TX9, FF-B-171, H20309 X 1A, TCC4410 C PIECE 15

BTW, the 10K Duece front winch takes the same size bearing (45x100x25) but most I have found, including fresh gov. rebuilds (!), come with the common #6309 deep groove ball bearing, which I say is NOT IDEAL for its task....!!

G.

OK, heres what I found when I pulled the side case off. First I only pulled off the side with the clutch in it, Just pulled it off. I did not disassemble it. I.E. removing the set screw and driving out lever separating it from the shift fork. When you pull the case off, if you stand the winch on end, be prepared for the dog clutch, spacer and bushing to fall out. I could not find anything that would keep the clutch from disengaging. So I reassembled it. By your self this is difficult if you dont follow the TM. I had to try several times to stack all three items in the proper order, with the keyways lined up and flip it over while holding the clutch lever tight to hold everything in place and not have things fall out. One thing I discovered is the threaded rod on the bottom of the winch needs to be removed, that way if you dont have the keyways lined up you can rotate the case to get them to line up and everything will drop into place.

I did discover that my drum brake on that side needs to be replaced. The lining has broken free from the backing and I'm also missing the spring that goes behind the adjusting srew for that brake.

What I did learn by this process is that the last time this winch was disassembled/reassembled I think the two cases were pulled together to tight and that why it would not dissengage. The TM says to make note of where the inside nut on the threaded rod is in order to locate where the side case needs to be reassembled to. In my earlier post I said I could turn the drum only so far before it hit the clutch. If I went slow i could feel it hit then I could back it up. If I went fast I could feel it wedge itself tight and I had a hard time backing it up. When I reassembled it, I backed that nut on the threaded rod out just a slight amount and then tried to spin the drum again, now it would spin but I could hear the drum contact the ears on the clutch as it spun around. I think if I spread the case another 1/16 of an inch or so it will clear and I believe there is enough play in the holes in the top and back plates to to this along with play in the front rollers. DH this is where I would start with your winch if you cant get it to disengage. If the winch is not on the truck pull the rollers off completely then loosen the top and back plate, then loosen the nut on the outside of the threaded rod on the bottom and turn the inside nut to spread the cases.

While we're here, is it possible to clean up the rust off the drums sealing surface? I know if I dont clean it up that rust will tear up the seals.

That sealing surface is pretty rough. I'm not sure if you can find a wear sleeve that size but one would be in order if you can.

If you can't repair the surface I'd try and run corn head grease in it. I'm pretty sure that surface (even cleaned up) won't hold 90wt in.