700r4 TV Cable Bracket Installation

I've finished building a 700r4 that I have bolted up to the 6.2. I'm ready to hook up the tv cable. I have the TV Cable Bracket for the 6.2/700r4 but I can't figure out how it's supposed to be installed. I've tried googling but I'm getting no luck.

How does the bracket attach to the motor, to the throttle, to the TV cable?

There are endless posts online about how to adjust the cable, but I can't find anything that shows how it's all connected and set up. If anyone has pictures or a good verbal explanation I will greatly appreciate it!

The bracket is bolted to the rear of the driver side head where the GP controller temp switch is. The switch will go up through the large hole in the center of the bracket. You may have to remove the switch, mount the bracket and reinstall the switch. The cable snaps into the square hole in the bracket. the D shaped cable adjustment button must face down, otherwise the cable will be twisted. The cable is connected to a linkage rod that is that goes through the eyelit on the bracket and in turn connected to the IP throttle linkage. I'll snap some pics tomorrow.

Awesome! Thanks Wayne.

By the way, the 700r4 has the best thing I have ever done, just be sure to to watch the temp. I had a faulty electric tq lockup harness and was pushing 235 degrees empty. I went to a check ball in the lock up silonoid so it is always locked up. Now I run about 185 loaded or not.

Here's a pic of the TV cable bracket. The linkage rod is hidden under the intake manifold, so I coulden't get a good pic of that. The rod end with the long slot connects to the bottom of the steel bracket on the throttle linkage. On the TV cable end, the cable connects to the rod with a flat toped button that the cable end clips onto.

Great, thanks Wayne!
I'm installing a temp gauge and auxiliary cooler for the transmission. I'm also wiring up a switch on the dash to control lockup, selecting between auto lockup in 4th, manual lock in 2nd 3rd or 4th, and no lockup. I'm routing that through an LED next to the dash switch that will light when lockup, that way ill know if it isn't locking up when it should be.
I'm looking forward to see how it works, it's my first time building a transmission. Hopefully it will be a nice ride. I've also installed a tiny tach so I can monitor my rpm's.

Interesting. How do you wire it to only lockup in 4th? I had a 130-70244 B&M lockup controller at first,$160.00. It crapped out, so I wired the lockup through an old school floor mounted dimmer switch. I have hands free lockup controll with this setup. I also installed an external spin on trans filter. just something to consider. You have done your homework! Be sure to post your results.

Scroll to the lower half of this page:
http://purplesagetradingpost.com/sumner/techinfo/700R4p1.html
I'm using the TCI lockup kit he writes about.

Well, I finally got it all wrapped up today and took it on a test drive. TV cable wasn't quite set right at first and 1-2 shift was happening way late. I adjusted the cable and now it feels more normal, shifting around 1500rpm. Overdrive rocks! Man it's nice to cruise on the highway and not go deaf, doing 60 at about 2000rpm. My automatic lockup isn't working right. It behaves just like manual lockup, but at least I do have lockup. As I get time I'll drop the pan and check the lockup wiring. I also installed an engine temp gauge and trans temp gauge while I was at it. I was a little surprised that both my engine and transmission were operating at about 200 degrees. Seems high, but it was in the 90's today. Those of you who have 700's, do you know what temp you run at, I'm curious to see how I compare.

Cliff, 200 deg is way too hot, check out www.ThirdGen.org go to the message boards and search-700R4 temprature range. It has a table showing trans tempratures and the effect those temps have on the transmissions longevity. Mine runs no hotter than 140 deg, with a fan driven external cooler, in lockup. The rule of thumb is the trans should run 30-50 deg cooler than the engine.

TVOLLMER said:

By the way, the 700r4 has the best thing I have ever done, just be sure to to watch the temp. I had a faulty electric tq lockup harness and was pushing 235 degrees empty. I went to a check ball in the lock up silonoid so it is always locked up. Now I run about 185 loaded or not.

Click to expand...

So I wonder if I was running so hot because I wasn't locking up soon enough?

wayne pick said:

Cliff, 200 deg is way too hot, check out www.ThirdGen.org go to the message boards and search-700R4 temprature range. It has a table showing trans tempratures and the effect those temps have on the transmissions longevity. Mine runs no hotter than 140 deg, with a fan driven external cooler, in lockup. The rule of thumb is the trans should run 30-50 deg cooler than the engine.

Click to expand...

Where should I start looking to solve the heat problem? It doesn't seem to be slipping. This is also with a cooler mounted in front of the radiator.

It may be slipping, but you may not notice it. An improper TV cable adj will cause overheating. If the 2-3 shift slips under hard throttle, the TV cable is out of adjustment. The only proper way to adjust the TV cable is to have a trans shop line test each shift point. What is the stall speed on the torque converter your running? You should be running a 1600 stall converter with the 6.2/700R4/4.56 rear combination. Do you have a diesel govenor in it? To what extent did you build the trans? Heavy duty clutches and at least a stage 2 shift kit is required to run the 700 in these trucks. You may have to go with a big fan driven cooler.

cliffyp said:

Where should I start looking to solve the heat problem? It doesn't seem to be slipping. This is also with a cooler mounted in front of the radiator.

Click to expand...

I put a 700r4 from a civvy blazer (6.2) into my 1009, I had a oil cooler pan instaled onto it and a corvette shft solenoid installed also witch inproved the shifting.

Good luck getting it to run cooler than the engine when the cooler lines run through the engine coolant.....

wayne pick said:

It may be slipping, but you may not notice it. An improper TV cable adj will cause overheating. If the 2-3 shift slips under hard throttle, the TV cable is out of adjustment. The only proper way to adjust the TV cable is to have a trans shop line test each shift point. What is the stall speed on the torque converter your running? You should be running a 1600 stall converter with the 6.2/700R4/4.56 rear combination. Do you have a diesel govenor in it? To what extent did you build the trans? Heavy duty clutches and at least a stage 2 shift kit is required to run the 700 in these trucks. You may have to go with a big fan driven cooler.

Click to expand...

The converter is either 1600 or 1700, I don't remember off the top of my head. It does have a diesel governor, heavy duty clutches and I did a shift kit when rebuilding. Hopefully it's just the TV cable. I had it wrong to begin with and while it feels better now, it's probably still wrong. More test drives tomorrow.

Draco-87 said:

I put a 700r4 from a civvy blazer (6.2) into my 1009, I had a oil cooler pan instaled onto it and a corvette shft solenoid installed also witch inproved the shifting.

Click to expand...

Do you mean the corvette servo? I did that on mine, and the way my tranny guy built my trans, the shifts were so harsh it was banging the gears so bad I was afraid it was going to break something. I guess he would have installed it if the trans needed it. I went back to the original servo.

Draco-87 said:

I put a 700r4 from a civvy blazer (6.2) into my 1009, I had a oil cooler pan instaled onto it and a corvette shft solenoid installed also witch inproved the shifting.

Click to expand...

I got a similar pan from monster and did the corvette servo as well

wayne pick said:

Do you mean the corvette servo? I did that on mine, and the way my tranny guy built my trans, the shifts were so harsh it was banging the gears so bad I was afraid it was going to break something.

Click to expand...

On my first test drive the 1-2 shift was so hard it was breaking my tires loose. Right now 1-2 is firm and I almost don't notice 2-3 or 3-4.

I had a heck of a time adjusting mine. Believe it or not, each click on the cable adjuster will change the shift points, so make small adjustments. It's time consuming and a PITA, but critical. As you know through your research, an improper TV adjustment will burn up a 700 real fast, so easy on the throttle when fine tuning it. You'll get it, just takes patients.