Towing an M37

Ok, so I just bought a tow bar set to tow my M37 home when necessary until I get fixed what seems to be a sporadic issue that's been known to leave me stranded. I've also wanted a set for my M109's and M35, so I'm glad to have them.

Anyway, my first tow came two weekends ago - about 5 days after purchasing the tow bars (...glad I had them!) Anyway, I noticed that my M37 didn't track very well, and there were two times that I had to get out and adjust the steering wheel to keep from plowing on dry pavement...so I've been a little concerned. I did the tow with our Lincoln Navigator, and I really felt the M37 resisting me; I even had to steer the Navigator while going straight to counter-act the M37's affects. I looked at the tow bars, and I noticed that the two sides appear to be different - although I would have thought that everything should be standard (as far as lengths and hole locations and such) so that the parts could be used interchangeably, so I wouldn't think it should matter much.



Well, I attempted to tow it again yesterday because it allowed me to drive out to get my M109 from my cousin's place but get both vehicles back home, and it plowed badly again so I measured the two sides and see that they're different lengths - by a little less than 1". (The alignment on the M37 doesn't seem bad, so I don't think it's an alignment issue...although I could be wrong.)



I don't want to drill new holes, but I'm thinking that I should probably have two new holes drilled that would produce a triangle with two legs that are exactly the same lengths.

The TM recommends keeping the tow bars adjusted as closely as possible to the retracted position, but I'm wondering if running them extended may reduce the problems I'm experiencing.

I am also wondering if I have the correct feet/adapters. I've been told that these are the correct adapters for the M37, but I had to use washers to take up some extra space; I do plan to relocate the washers on one side of the truck to the other side of the shackle mount in order to keep things as symmetric as possible, but this will not fix the different tow bar lengths.

About 10 months ago, I used this tow bar set to tow an M109 and did not notice any issues...so I don't know if it's just the M37 or what.

I would like to either find a matching side for my tow bar set or drill new holes to make sure that everything is the proper length...but I'm wondering if anyone has any advice for me in the mean time.

Thanks in advance for any thoughts or recommendations!
DB

From my understanding, the M37 is very uncooperative to tow-bar, so what you've been experiencing isn't unusual....

I have also heard the M37 is a hard animal to tow. I used to tow my WC52 (the older brother of the M37) with a chevy one ton, one day I was turning at a traffic light and the WC52 went on it's merry way....dragging the one ton side ways. I have also towed a WC54 and it fought me also.
So, your M37 was not picking on you, that is the way they are.
One of the few, Frank USMC RET

Tow Bar

I also have heard the same story that Frank & Capt.Marion speak of!
I know that CarterGunnrunner tows his 37 w/ his WC, never heard him complain about it, maybe he'll catch this thread?
I have toyed with the idea of purchasing the tow rig myself...........

Huh
I never had a problem towing my 37

jeeps dont seem to tow very well either

one trick i found to work pretty well is you take a bunjee cord and hook your steering wheel to your seat frame to keep it straight

this helps with the tracking problem, but you have to take the bunjee off to make sharp turns


Mike

I would say the legs should be the same length. Are they the same at any of the positions? Looks like one leg has the MWO modification collar, and the other's don't, which sounds like the legs are from 2 different tow bars.

The legs are not the same at any of the positions, so I guess I need to be on the lookout for a matching leg...or two.

Thanks for the info, guys - guess I'll only tow it when it's absolutely necessary...or use Bill W's approach. (I'd like to buy a trailer, too - I just don't have room...of course, that didn't exactly stop me from buying big green trucks!)

While the leg difference seems to be plausible, it's not the problem. The vehicle will square out by moving over a bit. None of the medium towbars are exactly the same width. Look in your mirrors, the towed vehicle is always off to one side more than the other. The problem here is castor angle. Most older vehicles and vehicles without power steering run at near 0 caster. Running at just a few munites of positive caster eases the resistance of non power steering. Once the springs get just a wee bit weak, you are at negative caster. Negative caster will cause the vehicle to go all over the place. It will also kill any chance of a pleasant towbar experence. This isn't the end of the world though. You can add a tapered wedge between the spring and the housing or a temp fix would be a longer rear shackle.

The legs don't have to be the same. It will just make the towed vehicle pull slightly to one side, or the other.

On the M37, get the wheels going straight on a little test run, then tie the steering wheel off with bunge chords, so it will resist going a fowl. It will allow you to go straight, and make gradual corners, but resist excessive movement!

Those Guys that made the tow bar, knew the legs were uneven, when they made it to be universal & and fit more then one vehicle. It will work that way, just fine.

Lee in Alaska

I never tried it but some of the guys on another forum ran heavy bungie cord(s) from the brake petal to the bottom spoke of steering wheel to help "entice" the wheel to go back/stay on center while towing/turning

I have used the 2 bungie cords (for strength) method when towing several trucks home, usually doing it alone and never had any problems. Carter

PullingTrk pictures from military photos on webshots

Tow Bar pictures from military photos on webshots