rmgill
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Wow, looking at your relays there, I'd be worried about kicking them trying to hit the high-beam switch. I like wiring to be out of the way of feet.
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2nd Fuel tank on my Deuce.
- Thread starter rmgill
- Start date
- 10,350
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Ryan, last night you asked about the length of copper tubing used in my heated tank, I said it may be 15 ft, now I think it's more like 12 Ft, anyway here is a picture showing the install plus the bulkhead fittings.
The coil is "screwed" in through the access opening.
About the relay wiring, you have to reach to hit them and I'm not worried about it, lots of wiring and connectors within reach with space at a premium on this "firewall".
The coil is "screwed" in through the access opening.
About the relay wiring, you have to reach to hit them and I'm not worried about it, lots of wiring and connectors within reach with space at a premium on this "firewall".
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rmgill
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So I got it all assembled and started doing leak tests. The valve from Memphis needs new o-rings. It's a used valve, makes sense. However the flare fittings I put together, half of them are leaking blast it. Anyone have any advice on these fittings? Perhaps I over torqued them on assembly? How do the military ones get flared?
Naturally, I had to pull the 2nd tank back off to get to the valve to remove it to tear it down a second time. Tomorrow, I'm going to go get some o-rings and come back and try to fix the leaky fittings.
Naturally, I had to pull the 2nd tank back off to get to the valve to remove it to tear it down a second time. Tomorrow, I'm going to go get some o-rings and come back and try to fix the leaky fittings.
- 34,014
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Ryan, are you using the miltary ones or mixing them up? The military ones seem to be unique and don't mix well with the store bought stuff. Did you plumb it in copper or steel?
rmgill
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Military ones w/ copper tube.
- 10,350
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- Meadows of Dan, Virginia
Inverted flare is the same military or commercial. I use my brake tubing flaring kit and the inverted flare connections rarily leak. It is the double flaring procedure. Hard to overtighten.
For the pipe threads, make sure they are pipe threads (=tapered) and not straight. I had some problems with that since some were mixed in with the others at the store. Also, use the yellow teflon tape not the white. The yellow is fuel resistant.
For the pipe threads, make sure they are pipe threads (=tapered) and not straight. I had some problems with that since some were mixed in with the others at the store. Also, use the yellow teflon tape not the white. The yellow is fuel resistant.
pa.rich
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It is possible to get a split in the flare and also it hs to be tightened quite hard.
rmgill
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Could be that I'm not getting them tight enough as those two that are slightly leaky are hard to get torqued right due to their positions. I'll take some pictures tomorrow of the routing of piping and the valve.
TheBuggyman
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Ryan,
I used to procure parts for my unit in the Navy and be aware that the military uses 37.5 degree and 45 degree flares. Most civilian flares are 45 degrees. I doubt that any fuel line flares on your vehicle are 37.5 degrees, your problem likely is in the flare itself. If you do not use a flaring tool with a fluted end you will have to chamfer the inside edge of the tubing to be flared. I flare for a living and this is the tool that we use without exception: http://www.uniweld.com/catalog/tubing_tools/flaring_tools/70071.htm
You do not have to clean the end of the tube or chamfer it, you will get a perfect flare EVERY time! It also has a depth stop so your completed flare will have the correct diameter for full bearing on the fitting. It does not make double flares but we have never needed that with the quality of flare produced. I highly recommend this tool.
I used to procure parts for my unit in the Navy and be aware that the military uses 37.5 degree and 45 degree flares. Most civilian flares are 45 degrees. I doubt that any fuel line flares on your vehicle are 37.5 degrees, your problem likely is in the flare itself. If you do not use a flaring tool with a fluted end you will have to chamfer the inside edge of the tubing to be flared. I flare for a living and this is the tool that we use without exception: http://www.uniweld.com/catalog/tubing_tools/flaring_tools/70071.htm
You do not have to clean the end of the tube or chamfer it, you will get a perfect flare EVERY time! It also has a depth stop so your completed flare will have the correct diameter for full bearing on the fitting. It does not make double flares but we have never needed that with the quality of flare produced. I highly recommend this tool.
rmgill
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I bought a double flare tool that has the insert to go down in and limit the inside diameter and get the right angles on the first part of the flare operation. It made neat flares. One of the ones that was leaking on the #2 try had a bit of galling from previous work on that bit of pipe, so I took to buffing the tubing out with a sanding sponge to get them smooth and deburred. IT was quite annoying to have to redo the fittings 2-3 times each. One took 4 tries. If I were doing this for a bigger project, I'd build a jig for testing the fittings.
pa.rich
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Thats a good flare tool, Ive got to get one, the depth gauge takes the guesswork out. To long an end it may split, to short, not enough contact to seal.My 2 cents.
TheBuggyman
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You will not be disappointed in that tool, absolutely worth the money!pa.rich said: