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4" lift and shackle flip/ build up thread on '84 M1008

ultim8gamr

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162
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Napa Valley, CA
The Story (some background):
I have wanted to own a '73-87 Chevy for the longest time. I previously owned a IFS '90 Chevy K1500 and wanted an affordable way to lift it that was dependable. so a SAS was what i had come up with. Well a few months ago I found a truck with the older body style for sale. The front brush guard really set it apart from the other trucks I had seen for sale. I checked it out and was very excited the oh so great D60 that is talked about with great honor on Pirate4x4. I had been looking for a diesel so that i could run Bio-diesel in it, i always thought it would be cool to do. One more reason to buy it. took it for a test drive and found no major problems with it. So long story short, I bought it. I figured if something went wrong i could part it out and sell the D60 and make back most of the initial price. It turns out the truck was a military M1008 CUCV. On the way home (5miles) from paying the owner and changing ownership of the truck I ran out of diesel and the battery was too dead to start the engine when my dad came with a can of diesel. After driving for a few days i noticed some death wobble at around 30MPH. Took it to a shop and found out the tires were worse than I thought. New tires were now on the urgent agenda. I had always wanted a truck of this era because of the price of lift kits for tires and the dependability of SFAs. It was decided that I would lift the truck now when I replaced the tires rather than 40,000 Miles down the road. The Truck had a dead rear battery because the previous owner did not have the correct passenger side alternator in it (no isolated ground). And I didn't figure this out until after buying a brand new battery for the truck :( . So first I bought a new 100amp alternator with an isolated ground for the passenger side.
Truck as I bought it:
http://img329.imageshack.us/img329/8623/1013317bn1.jpg

Lift Info:
I knew that I wanted to run 35" tires with as little lift as possible and NO fender trimming. I settled on a 4" lift. In the rear I chose to installed a shackle flip from OffRoad Design (ORD) because I had heard many good things about their products. For the front springs i finally chose to go with the Tuff Country HD EZ ride springs because of their spring rate of 495 (slightly higher than SkyJacker's at 490). I took advantage of spring break to install the lift after collecting most of the parts.

Measurements before lift (center of axle to fender directly above):
w/ truck weight
frnt driver ?
frnt pass ?
rr driver 23 3/4"
rr pass 24 1/4"
full droop
frnt driver 25 3/4"
frnt pass 26 1/2"
rr driver 26 1/2"
rr pass 26 1/2"

Rear:
I started the rear lift on 4/9/07 removing the old shackle hangers. I have become very good friends with the grinder. OH! And I got to sawzall the exhaust ends off. That is the coolest tool! I have never had a need for it before. After removing the wheels I used a wire brush to remove rust and painted the rear drums black. On 4/10/07 I went to San Jose to visit Santa Clara University (gotta apply for colleges next year) and stop at 4Wheel Parts where I picked up four ProComp eXtreme A/Ts and some procomp extended brake lines. When I returned to work on it I removed the lever for the brake proportioing valve. I replaced the old brake line with one the longer procomp line. I finished the shackle flip on 4/11/07 at 11:15PM, i was excited to get it done. I feel kinda sorry for the neighbors though, I was using the grinder until 10:45 and although I was on spring break their daughter wasn't and they still had work. Rear shocks were not installed until the night of 4/17/07
4/12/07 I did nothing

Front:
Friday 4/13/07. Friday the 13th I started on the front lift springs! I put hte truck on blocks. I removed the sway bar. I removed the old drag link, it was trashed and had become just a blob of grease. I removed the shocks. I don't remember dates for the following but here's what I did. I lowed the front axle down on to jack stands and then removed the old springs. When I installed the new springs I had to move the drive shaft forward to line it up with the center pin on the springs. The new springs actually have and arch in them! I went to the dealer looking for lock nuts and was informed that these trucks didn't use lock nuts for the U bolts. I just torqued the old nuts (gonna get in trouble with some of you here) back down to spec at 150ft#. I replaced the old bake lines with the new braided stainless steel brake lines from procomp.

Dad drove down to Pismo on fri-sat and stopped by 4WP on his way back home Saturday to pick up my wheels and shocks (4/14/07). Tires were balanced on Monday 4/16/07 at Big O Tire. On Tuesday I bought new drag link ends at Bert Williams and Sons and installed the drag link and wheels/tires that afternoon. Just before installing the wheels/tires i flipped teh rear axle shim to fix the pinion angle by 5-6*. That night I installed the shocks. I had to install the rear shocks upside down because of clearance problems with he axle tube and the shock tube on the passenger mount. I rigged the brake proportioning valve to a temporary setting and went to grease the drag link ends only to find that the grease gun was out of grease and all stores were closed. I drove out to walmart at 7 the next morning for a tube of grease. greased up the ends and was able to drive the truck to school that morning :lol: 4/18/07.
http://img178.imageshack.us/img178/1074/1003453rk8.jpg
Measurements after lift:
w/ truck weight
frnt driver ? waiting a few days for springs to settle
frnt pass ? waiting a few days for springs to settle
rr driver 27 1/2"
rr pass 27 3/4"
full droop
frnt driver ?
frnt pass ?
rr driver 29 3/4"
rr pass 30"

I plan to get the truck aligned this weekend.
John
I'm working on a blog/slideshow/album for this build @ image shack that I will have up very shortly.
I will also be posting all parts and prices for the build up soon.
Bear with me I'm trying to get pic situation controlled so that they show up in the thread.
 

ultim8gamr

New member
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Location
Napa Valley, CA
Costs

Here is what I spent on everything pertaining to the lift and where I got what:
I bought the leaf springs through JC Whitney because of the cheaper shipping cost, otherwise i would have bought them from ORD.

ORD 4" 1Ton Shackle Flip kit $190
Tuff Country HD 4" frnt lift springs @ J.C. Whitney $207.88
4 Procomp eXtreme A/T 315/75R16 @ 4WheelParts $835.96
extended brake lines procomp 7220 @ 4WheelParts for ttl $97.99
1 1/2" x 9" #10 strap to extend rear brake prop. valve arm @ OSH $1.49
DOT 5 Brake Fluid @ Kragen $6.99
DOT 5 Brake Fluid 32oz @ NAPA $25.62
RS50001 shocks frnt @ 4WheelParts and
RS5134 shocks rear @ 4WheelParts at buy 3 get 1 for ttl $134.97
4 Procomp 8069-6882 16x8 steel alloy wheels @ 4WheelParts $535.96
Whels/tires mounted balanced + valve stems + lug nuts + keyed lug nuts @ BIG O $241.06
new drag link ends (2026 & 2027)@ B.W.S. ttl $97.36
General grease @ Wal Mart $1.50

So the grand total is $2440.08 plus approx $40 for shipping/tax

BWS = Bert Williams & Sons
OSH = Orchard Supply Hardware
 

AJMBLAZER

New member
2,688
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Location
Paducah, KY
RE: Costs

Looking good man.

Got a steering brace for it yet? Even if the truck was stock the frame can still crack around the steering box so the bolt on brace is about mandatory. Couple more paychecks at the new job and I think I can squeeze a brace and some zero rates in.

How much cheaper were the springs from JCW instead of ORD?


www.CarDomain.com is a great site for hosting pictures and blogging about your vehicles. Free too. I've got a couple hundred pictures up on mine.
 

ultim8gamr

New member
162
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Location
Napa Valley, CA
Re: RE: Costs

AJMBLAZER said:
Got a steering brace for it yet? Even if the truck was stock the frame can still crack around the steering box so the bolt on brace is about mandatory. Couple more paychecks at the new job and I think I can squeeze a brace and some zero rates in.
I already looked into this. One Ton frames are stronger/thicker than the 1/2T 3/4T frames and it is not likely to crack at all. The guy at the local chevy dealer only has seen it once on a 1/2T 3/4T truck so i'm not worried. I'm not going to be doing any hardcore stuff over rocks either. The most grip it'll see will be on the street. Everyone using the frame brace is using it on 1/2T 3/4T trucks.
AJMBLAZER said:
How much cheaper were the springs from JCW instead of ORD?
Shipping was like $22 at JC Whitney, they ship by total purchase price so with the springs and weathstripping for the door it wasn't to bad. ORD it was like $44 estimated i think. it was $15 for the shackle flip to ship. the springs shipped from some where in California and took like 2 day to arrive for me.

i'll check out car domain thanks.


More on rear install. I had to grind some valleys into the trailer receiver and cut a little off the end of the ORD shackles to make it fit. you had asked me about getting a receiver before so i thought i'd mention it

John
 

AJMBLAZER

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Paducah, KY
Do a little reading over on www.ColoradoK5.com . The frames aren't really any stronger on the 1 tons. The problem is the odd angles of the factory push/pull steering setup and the forces they create. No offense to your GM dealer guy but he's talking out his butt. Hell, I knew of a couple CUCV's in the Marines that needed the frame fixed but they were all DRMO'd instead.

It's your truck either way.
 

CCATLETT1984

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Saint Clair Shores, MI
AJMBLAZER said:
Do a little reading over on www.ColoradoK5.com . The frames aren't really any stronger on the 1 tons. The problem is the odd angles of the factory push/pull steering setup and the forces they create. No offense to your GM dealer guy but he's talking out his butt. heck, I knew of a couple CUCV's in the Marines that needed the frame fixed but they were all DRMO'd instead.

It's your truck either way.
I would recommend eventually getting the bolt-on frame brace. but since your not doing any hardcore stuff, I doubt that you would have any issues until you get it. I would check to make sure the steering box bolts are tight every month or so, just DONT OVERTORQUE THEM. The frame is not really much stronger than the 3/4tons but is thicker than the 1/2ton frames. Of course going to crossover completely eliminates the weak point by changing the way the box is stressed. :D :D
 

ultim8gamr

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Location
Napa Valley, CA
maddawg308 said:
I'll try and get some pics up this afternoon. im having trouble embedding pictures so i may have to resize them and upload through SS. or i'll put all the pictures in a zip file and upload that to the forum for y'all to download and view.

84cucv1ton, yeah it was more than some of the deals i've heard pf people getting but i needed new, reliable tires for DD use. I have the original wheels and tires still and may end up selling the wheels here if anyone needs a set. but first i have to see if they want them up at my grandparents' ranch tho.
 

84cucv1ton

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New Jersey
yeah, i see what your saying. i like the old hummer tires. nice and cheap. to bad your so far away i know somw deal on tires. good luck to you
 

NJRICK

Member
36
1
8
Location
woodbine NJ
How are you guys using the superlift springs ? I just got a pair and they are only 2.5 in wide. My stock springs are 3 in wide. Am I missing something here? Truck is on blocks & I'm confused.

Rick
 
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