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All that plumbing under the hood

klunk

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Brake fluid....?

What is/was the most likely fluid used in a Canadian M135?...what should I use?...Were these trucks ever converted to silicone fluid?...If I have no idea about anything whats best to start with?....can I damage anything using the wrong stuff?
 

SturmTyger380

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You can't mix the two. Usually when a truck was converted by the Army they put a label to note silicon only.

Mine was DOT 3 fluid I am sure.

To change, the whole system has to be either changed out or flushed really good.

Alan
 

klunk

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Anyone got any pointers on the fuel pump?

its time to get rid of the 50cal ammo can sitting next to the battery gravity feeding the carb

the fuel was disconnected electrically when I got the truck so I figure something is up with it
 

m1010plowboy

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Did you hit it with a hammer?

Do you want an original or are you thinking aftermarket?

I take them apart, clean and re-assemble with good success so far.

Is it running? Pictures man.
 

SturmTyger380

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Take a trip down to Ralph's place and see if he has any pump rebuilding kits. The kit will have a new armature and the four rubber support rods for holding the pump in place. (Get a few and share them out) ;)

Other than that kit the rest is just cleaning out.
 

klunk

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Thanks guys...

I have heard they are pretty simple and usually just require maint to keep working forever...

has anyone used a adjustable racing pump( simply to get fuel pressure and volume correct)?
 

hendersond

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Yes, several. Mr Gasket, Carter, and a Holley. I tried a return line with a regulator as well. Tried 12v off a single battery too. Spent a lot of money. Purchased the replacement and 100% satisfied. IF you would like to cut cost, you can find the correct one on ebay. Look for the correct pressure and 24volt. Most are 8+psi, but you can find lower psi. I think one of mine is an Ingersol.
I did notice that when the fuel pressure was 8-9 psi there was a noticeable speed/power increase. As a matter of fact I drove several hundred miles <3mpg. I estimate at a lower pressure probably 6mpg, but I'm cresting hills at 25 mph that used to crest at 45. I'm not stretching the truth. I have witnesses!
Another thing: If you use an external fuel pump, there are 1 or 2 bleed off holes inside the original pump/filter housing inside the tank. These are on a fitting at the top and bottom if the 3/8 line between the pump and top of tank. Some of my pumps had 1, some had both. You will be really confused when your standing along side I-90 in the middle of South Dakota looking at the fuel line with your buddy and wondering why you had fuel just a few miles ago. Then fuel sprays all over, you hook up the line and the truck dies. Finally you decide to spend $40 on a red boat gas tank and strap it to the roof. Unfortunately you can only drive at night because you know what the state patrol will do when they see that. Solder them shut.
Any way, My 675 mile trip home took 3 months. I replaced and then rebuilt another 2 or 3 stock pumps before I gave in. Wasted an entire summer. Cannot believe we never burned the thing down. That is why I'm unreasonable when it comes to this topic.
 

klunk

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:popcorn:
Omg Dan, that was a funny &:)-$ read

i had my M135 delivered ($$$) to my doorstep so I have no 'let's drive it home stories'....but I did crash into the ditch 50 feet from my driveway last weekend
 

hendersond

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It was miserable. Yes, I could have saved money at any point by having it hauled, but that would have been giving up.
I figured It had to be fixed either way and I was going to attempt to cut corners and "work it out" for months on the highway or later at home.
The unanticipated negative was I view it like a bad girlfriend, always looking at it out the corner of my eye wondering if it is going to do the wrong thing again.
The positive is I really got to know it very well. I can tell what it is going to do before it knows now.
I carry a spare fuel pump, toggle switch and homemade harness that taps into the main switch in the glove box. Don't need it, but I feel better.
Learn from my mistakes...
 

ducer

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Ober, indiana
You have to remember the racing pumps are not made for everyday use. They do not like to run for more than a few minutes before you will see a noticeable pressure drop. 4 of us chased that problem around for a few summers on our drag cars when we put them on the street. Holley blue pumps worked the best we finaly figured out but we were constantly replacing brushes. This also happened over 25 years ago.

Denny
 

klunk

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Niagara Falls, Kanada
Ok-the fuel pump is officially the nastiest piece of crapola on this truck....


nothing is is coming apart...aftermarket...with a regulator...and maybe a pressure gauge here we come


can anyone explain why there appears to be 2vent lines on the top of the tank?
one definitely ties in with the master vent up on the firewall....the other (rear most) vent/line has been messed with but it's there...?
 

klunk

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Niagara Falls, Kanada
Ok-brakes...

brakes brakes brakes...

I have read here it is possible to bypass the air pack and still have functioning brakes.
I want to do this so I can test the system from the master to the wheel cylinders and fix replace what needs fixin and replacin while the air pack gets a rebuild-n

how is this done?...I assume the single line from the master gets adapted to the first 'block' on the frame closest to the front part of the air pack?

... Help?...
 

SturmTyger380

Active member
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Easley SC
Since all the airpack does is boost the hydraulic pressure of the brake fluid you might have some weak brakes. But you would have pressure for testing like you said. That first block can split the fluid from and rear like it does coming out of the airpack. I would think if you got tubing and fittings to connect the Hydraulic Inlet Line to the Hydraulic Outlet Line it should give you some pressure.

Air Pack M211 Manual.jpg

Alan
 
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