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another fuel system ?

cucv1833

Member
533
4
18
Location
Lake Charles, LA
:deadhorse:
hello all. im still having a fuel problem and dont know what the next step should be. i read the TM 20/34 and searched. i have a M1008 still having a air in fuel problem. when i use the bleed vavle i have a good stream of fuel with no air but the bubbles end up comeing back at some point My question is
is that a problem to be address from the fuel filter back to the tank or could it be a problem with the injection system

so for changed all rubber fuel hose
fuel supply pump
fuel shut off solenoid
fuel filter base and 2 filters
clean tank and sending unit

i have checked for leaks hot, cold , and under 4psi pressure and cant find anything
i have spent about $500 trying to solve this problem $300 of it was a diesel shop that robbed me

I changed the "fuel shut off solenoid" because i went days without any air in the fuel that i could see
and she kept stalling after a few miles after it stalled i would check the bleed vavle and most of the time there
would be NO air bubbles.

should i Try a SPIN ON FILTER first or go ahead and change the I.P. ??
Thanks and sorry i know theres alot of spin on filter post but
looking for more info
 

cucv1833

Member
533
4
18
Location
Lake Charles, LA
did you check the glass ball on the fuel return for crap?

yes i have pulled and cleaned the check vavle about 3 times it has never been dirty and the ball is still there also i can go out to the truck at any giving time even after days of sitting ant it will crank up on the 1st or 2nd try and idle forever the farthest i drove the truck was about 30 miles it usaully only goes for about 2-5 mile before stalling
 

cucv1833

Member
533
4
18
Location
Lake Charles, LA
Arent the stock fuel filters known for sucking in air?

yeah i know yall are right about stock filter bases im on my 2nd one "civy filter base" i have the same problems even after the install . i guess i answered my own question about the spin on filter. I just saw a used stock filter base sell on EBAY yesterday for $200.00 thats one **** of a bidding war.
 

chevkeith

New member
20
0
0
Location
De Pere, WI
I have the same problem with fuel bleeding back to the tank on my M1031. Is there a check valve on the fuel supply line as well as the return line?

If nothing else, I've seen the AutoZone spin on filters for $65...
 

southdave

Active member
1,986
6
38
Location
ripley, oh/TDY Lordstown,Oh
That what the glass ball thingys purpose, I have seen an aftermarket check valves. I am relucant to install them, because the system is closed and may masked other problem.. Also, look into a stanadyne FM 100 filter base I believe this what the 6.5 uses, it what John deere and cat are using they have a great range of options ie water senor heating elements ect.. I picked two bases with filters 30micron and 5 microns for under 100 bucks with shipping heating elements are 50 to 60 bucks depending on the voltage
 
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cucv1833

Member
533
4
18
Location
Lake Charles, LA
I know i like the FM100 but cant really find it for sale online. I have decided to go with RACOR 460 10 micron.
I hope this will fix it. if not it will still be a good upgrade. My check valve seems to be working good i turned the truck over with the hose off and fuel comes out also used clear hose and have good fuel flow no bubbles

Also one time the truck died and i turned the fuel filter bleed valve and it made a SUCTION noise and then and good stream of fuel started flowing like it was supposed to any Idea on that.
 

Barrman

Well-known member
5,250
1,756
113
Location
Giddings, Texas
If you had audible suction at the fuel filter. My first thought is the in tank pick up tube/sock is clogged up. Have you dropped the tank and gotten any goo out of there?
 

cucv1833

Member
533
4
18
Location
Lake Charles, LA
Southdave- thanks for the info

Barrman- the guy i got the truck from said he put a used sending unit in it and said the tank was spotless but then it sat up for a while i think i will do that first thing and check for my self its defintly a audible sound. i will try that then test drive and go from there back to square one.
 

hfmt93

New member
24
0
1
Location
chapel hill, tn
Get a clear line on the ip return and supply the inlet directly with a gravity fed can of fuel. That will tell you if it is the ip or the system. Look for bubbles in the ip return.
 

markg

Member
352
1
18
Location
hutto,tx
just fyi
the lift pump has a check valve thats supposed to keep fuel from running back down to the tank,
i had the same problem on a civilian 6.2, pulled my hair out till i found that the rubber line from the tank on the bottom of the lift pump was rubbing the cross member of the frame , making a hole sucking air overnight. after sitting all night it would start and run good for 20 seconds, then die. restarting was a nightmare, running the battery down and cooking the starter. hope this helps
 

southdave

Active member
1,986
6
38
Location
ripley, oh/TDY Lordstown,Oh

wallew

Active member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
2,520
18
38
Location
San Angelo, Tx USA Planet Earth
Correct STANADYNE part number for JUST THE FILTER BASE ASSEMBLY is 24285 - that is the old STANADYNE number. If you use that and contact almost ANY CAT dealer, they can sell you a new base.

They are not cheap.

But I've replaced every filter base assembly on every CUCV I've purchased. In EVERY instance it resolved starting problems. I have also cleaned glow plugs instead of replacing them. 99 times out of 100 the glow plug ends are covered with oil that has leaked out from the valve covers. Clean those up, swap out the fuel filter base.

It will probably resolve your starting issues. Until you replace the fuel filter base, you will probably still have air getting into the system.

EDIT - the key is you say it feels like your fuel is going back into the tank. That is generally an air leak. A SLOW AIR LEAK in the filter base. You can 'help' that issue by adding a 6 psi fuel pump inline. There is a perfect place up under the passenger side frame rail. Look for where the two STEEL fuel lines are connected with a rubber line. Put the pump in there and wire it so that it come on ONLY once the ignition is turned.

That little trick makes BLEEDING the fuel system a snap and DOES NOT involve turning the engine over and there by draining your batteries. All you do is turn the bleed valve to open, turn the ignition on, wait for fuel to spurt, turn off the ignition, closed the bleed valve. WITH TWO PEOPLE, it takes longer to tell you HOW to do than to actually do this procedure IF you have an electric fuel pump installed before the fuel filter.
 
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chevkeith

New member
20
0
0
Location
De Pere, WI
I've been thinking about an electric fuel pump, will save me from going under the truck every time to purge the system. How have you guys wired these - always on when the ignition is on, or put a toggle switch in to use when you are priming/starting?

wallew - I definately have fuel draining back to the tank - because everytime I go to start the truck I have to bleed all the air in the line to the filter.

I've got the truck parked for the winter so I'll have plenty of time to make it right...all we need now is for WI to let us register these....
 

cucv1833

Member
533
4
18
Location
Lake Charles, LA
Thanks for all the Info guys. My truck doest have starting issuies it will start up any given time it just dont go the distance either way still probaly the same problem. Im offshore now for another month but now i have some pretty good ideas to hit it full force when i get home. I will first check the sending unit tube/sock again like BARRMAN said after that a spin on filter and then a electric fuel pump i will do this in steps until i get a good out come one of these options has to fix it. if all else fails a new I.P. and injectors for good measure

My girlfreind hates this truck she said i spend all my time and money on it instead of her.

Thanks for all the help guys:D
 
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