Better Lug nuts for super singles

[73m819]

The wheel is assembled just as if there are two wheels-just like factory. Just like a typical rear wheel install, the wheel is installed. Then the thimble screws on to stud and is thightened down. Then I install the back up plate-it basically simulates the second wheel. I then use the lug nut to secure the back up plate. The assembly works just as sotck and has no difference in thread engagement.
I didnt like the idea of just having the thible hold the wheel to hub.
Pete

CORRECT, a thimble is NOT designed as a STAND-A-LONE lug nut, the OUTER nut is what gives it strength.

A thimble used first on the studs (unless moded) DOES NOT allow the rim to be flat and tight AGAINST the hub, this WILL allow the rim to FLEX which in turn WILL crack rims AND CRACK/BREAK studs.

The ADAPTOR PLATE or the NEW LUG NUTS would be the safest way to go, no matter how much these COST, it would be CHEAPER then LOOSEING FRONT STUDS going down the road AT ANY SPEED

 

[paulrance]

Why not do it the other way. Take the center plate out of your 5 ton stock wheel for a spacer, then secure it with thimble to the hub. Next put your hemmt wheel on and use outter nut. Proper engagement and sits flat on wheel face, correct?

 

[73m819]

Why not do it the other way. Take the center plate out of your 5 ton stock wheel for a spacer, then secure it with thimble to the hub. Next put your hemmt wheel on and use outter nut. Proper engagement and sits flat on wheel face, correct?

BASICALY this is what Hoefler did, only made the plates

 

[Hammer]

The wheel is assembled just as if there are two wheels-just like factory. Just like a typical rear wheel install, the wheel is installed. Then the thimble screws on to stud and is thightened down. Then I install the back up plate-it basically simulates the second wheel. I then use the lug nut to secure the back up plate. The assembly works just as sotck and has no difference in thread engagement.
I didnt like the idea of just having the thible hold the wheel to hub.
Pete

That idea works fine for a single layer rim. But not for the double layer rims.
The two rim layers are too thick and do not allow for enough thread engagement.

 

[Csm Davis]

Okay to clear this up Hoefler has five ton combat rims and should have just used the same nuts as on the front of his truck, but what he did is okay also. What this thread is about is using hemmit wheels or others that are thicker, the lugs on most five tons are not long enough to properly engage all of the threads when using the standard thimbles or nuts.

 

[M920]

I singled out my five ton and ran into the stud issue. I solved it by making plates of the same thickness as the wheel. I mounted the wheel just like mounting the inner-then put the back up plates on and then nut. The back up plate acts like the second wheel.

If you need to use the system that Hoefler describes above for the HEMTT wheels you just use the steel spacer on the inboard side and use the longer thimbles for the aluminum wheels on the thick double steel wheels. Here is a link:

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showth...t-FEMTT-quot&p=1582742&viewfull=1#post1582742

 

[Derrickl112]

.

 

[grendel]

I think I love this thread...

 

[ROCKWELL-C60]

Why not machine inner layer of double layer wheel out.

 

[noazhouse]

Ok, so instead of running the regular nut from the front, or cutting down the thimble from the stock rears. How about using these lugnuts for the double layer super singles.
5995L and 5595R (also listed as 599501 and 599502) ?
Alcoa makes these lug nuts for running rims on our lug centered wheels.
Alcoa Wheels North America: Products: Accessories: Heavy Duty Trucks - Wheel Cap Nuts

They would seem to locate the rim like the thimble did, and still give you enough thread engagement to be safe.

these lug nuts will work on the 1991 m916a1 freightliner chassis also right

 

[simp5782]

these lug nuts will work on the 1991 m916a1 freightliner chassis also right

Yes. 916A1s use budd lugs.