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Common Parts needed and repair info

I had a few minutes today so i was able to pop the head off and i found only 1 stuck valve in her. It only took about 30 minutes, a half of a can of PB blaster, a hammer, and a chunk of wood to get it moving freely again. I'll be putting her back together Friday and hopefully putting a few more miles on her this weekend around my house. Thanks for the help once again guys, i'm sure i'll be asking more questions shortly.
In the mean time here are a few pictures of today's job.
 

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I put in the new head gasket with Permatex on the bolts Friday night after work and then a fresh oil change 1st thing today. She took a little while to fire up (the can of PB blaster down the valves did not help) she smoked for about 10 minutes then shes running like a champ and sounds good.
I drove it around for 30-45 minutes and i think shes pretty solid. I will be registering her this week, but my stock tires are cracked to ****... We have a state inspection in NH so what are my tire options at this point? I dont want to drop a lot of cash on new rims/tires since i'm not sure what i'm going to be doing with my current breaks (believe it or not they work after sitting for 10+ years)

After the drive I pulled the factory gas tank to see how bad it is (last owner said it was rusted bad) The bed floor was already toasted so i ground off the bolts and cut it up a little bit to get the tank out. I did not see a lot of rust inside of it, i think a few bottles of Coke will clean it up and then i'll install a inline fuel filter. Should i get some of that inside the gas tank paint/sealant to coat it just in case? I will be checking for leaks when i add the coke but as of now it looks solid.

Come spring after i do a little body work i will be installing hard wood strips on the bed floor with metal strips to hold it down and cover the gaps.
 

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JGBallew

Member
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Location
Paducah, Kentucky
You can mount almost any 16" truck tire on there, but you have to make sure the rims are clean and smooth. Use "radial" tubes (not expecting you'll find anything else) and new rim flaps.

One of the nicest M37's I ever dealt with had 11.00X16 Michelins , and other than low speed manuvering, the taller tires made it handle like a "big Jeep". Braking was actually a bit better than with the 9.00X16's.
 
Thanks for the suggestion of the floor. I just found the bed floor on line but i've always wanted a hardwood bed floor. I figure the metal strips will be the same color of the truck. Not this color but something on the lines of this maybe. I'm going to keep the rear bench seat and wood bed rails the same hard wood with the same color bolts. It should look slick when finished.
 
I'm looking for some more info once again...
I've been searching for the history of my rig but every time i enter the serial # or other #'s they come back as invalid

On the tag on the glove box
FSN 2320-542-4636
Contract # DAAE07-67-cs149
Serial # 8022683 T-245
Date 1-68

The block of the motor has T245a-226020 stamped on it

The doors have US Navy 94-80073
 
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