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Duel fuel line mod M818 855 cummins

GHall

New member
255
0
0
Location
San Antonio/TX
Rkrug,
How difficult was it to remove the entire doghouse & gear shift column along with disconnecting the linkages?
I think I like that path better then cutting holes, plus there seems to be a lot more room to work.

Patracy & Rkrug thanx for the step by step pictures.:beer:

And for those who don't know, as I didn't before this thread, a JIC fitting is a 35* flare fitting.
Some sort of industrial hydraulic fitting from Parker.
I didn't realize the doghouse needed to be removed myself.. I guess I wasn't paying very close attention. Seems it would be a little more difficult for the winch trucks. I need to look a little closer at what's involved in removing the winch controls, shifter and doghouse. Thanks for the info gentlemen.
 

Rkrug

Member
384
5
18
Location
Hays,KS
I have a winch tower in my truck to,you have to take it off first,there are 2 exterior bolts holding it on and three screws holding it on to the shifting column use a ratchet with a screw driver head to get the screws out because there not quite enough room for a screw driver, after removing the winch tower, remove the shifter tower top from the tower and disconnect the cable and 3 wires ( label the wires),after removing the top unbolt the tower from the fire wall. Now if there's any thing else bolted or screwed on to the fire wall ( fire extinguisher) remove it as well. Now you should be able to remove the top layer of insulation with the hard outer shell. Now pull back the flooring around it to reveal the floor bolts there should be 16 bolts all the way around some are hidden behind insulation which you might have to trim. To reach the bolts behind the dash use two or three ratchet extensions. Once the bolts are all out you should be able to pull the section out. While you have it out trim notches in the insulation where the bolts go through to ease in installation.
Hope this helps.
 

Doug Hanson

New member
Great thread, I'll be doing this for sure on my M812. I might be splitting already split hairs, but if one of the goals is to try and equalize fuel delivery front to back, with just a return hooked up at the front I think the fuel balance has been reversed (although not to the same degree) so that the rear head now has a slightly higher rail pressure due to the return restrictions in the cross over tubes. I think I'll go the dual drain route just to satisfy my obsessive compulsiveness. A jobs not worth doing unless you can make it twice as hard as it needs to be. And to be honest I could see myself getting carried away and building a manifold. Thanks Patracy
 

Carlo

New member
1,364
20
0
Location
palazzago italia
Bubba, can you start a new thread and explain how you mated the turbo to the stock manifold and everything else you did to complete the turbo installation?
I would also be VERY interested in seeing this. I want to convert my M931A1 to a turbo setup but I was sure I need to change the exhaust manifold plus other mod's-
 

350TacoZilla

Member
263
0
16
Location
Hancock MD
ahh thats cool, I was always looking for a center piece that would fit the stock manifold but have a flange for turbo. I would be very interested to see your setup though as old cummins are in short supply around here to rob parts from.
 

Doug Hanson

New member
I had the rocker boxes off my 812 to modify for Jake heads which provided excellent acess to the two plugs in question. I can't say enough on the valve grinding compound trick, but after the fourth Allen key broke, the fifth one stripped the plug. I can't bring myself to cut any new holes in anything so off comes the head and intake and exhaust etc. So Turbo time I think.
 

Rkrug

Member
384
5
18
Location
Hays,KS
I striped mine out when taking it out as well, just weld a nut on to the plug and take it out with a ratchet the heat of the weld also helps it loosen up, mine came right out.
 
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