• Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!

  • Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.

Engine Coolant - The pond on the passenger floor

zout

Well-known member
7,744
154
63
Location
Columbus Georgia
I'm 61 and been turning wrenchs and certifications up the wa zoo in my portfolio and also a Fleet Manager for a very well known trucking Co. here in the South.

I will agree on confidence and having common sence - and even if one of our employed mechanics did not have the service manual out there double checking himself with specifications - tolerances -while doing the tasks they do - they would not last long with me.

Folks can do what they want with their own equipment as far as safety standards on the highways and byways in AMERICA - but pm me first when your going to hit the road so I can stay off them.

Dealing with Homeland Security - TSA - DOT - and other Governmental Regulations what we deal with has to be perfect.

Folks never consider themselves sitting in the witness stand if an accident did occur and having to explain why they did what they did in the manner they did or did not do it. I have been personally involved in mechanics and myself having to sit in that witness stand and I only advise - you sure had better be covering your arse these days - look up trucking accidents and today all you will get is pages and pages of attorneys that are more than happy to take you on in a court - and these fellas have their chit in order to make sure you never drive again - or turn wrenches again for a company.

Just my .02 cents worth - but I am nobody trying not to tell you what to do or how to do it. Even as long as I have been in this business - I know nothing.
 

gungearz

New member
1,719
4
0
Location
northwestern indiana
Take it how ever you would like.... Torque specs on moving drivetrain and steering parts are one thing but when its time to swap out easy parts such as radiators, headlights, doors and windows, etc, etc...To me its a waste of time... Like I said before... I use them when I need them.... Sorry if you guys took offense and thought I pissed on your TM bible but I'm holding my ground. You got people on here looking on how to change dash lights.... Seriously....? To turn a plastic bulb cover....that's insane. Lucky were not allowed to touch our leasesed trucks at work.... I get paid to wait for the job to get done by certified mechanics.... On my truck I drive 4 times a year, ill wrench on it like I wrench on my own equipment.... By the book when needed... Now you just have to guess which 4 days those are...
 

The King Machine

Active member
396
91
28
Location
Vancouver, British Columbia
Take it how ever you would like.... Torque specs on moving drivetrain and steering parts are one thing but when its time to swap out easy parts such as radiators, headlights, doors and windows, etc, etc...To me its a waste of time... Like I said before... I use them when I need them.... Sorry if you guys took offense and thought I pissed on your TM bible but I'm holding my ground. You got people on here looking on how to change dash lights.... Seriously....? To turn a plastic bulb cover....that's insane. Lucky were not allowed to touch our leasesed trucks at work.... I get paid to wait for the job to get done by certified mechanics.... On my truck I drive 4 times a year, ill wrench on it like I wrench on my own equipment.... By the book when needed... Now you just have to guess which 4 days those are...
I'm with you friend, we are not working on the star ship enterprise here. These trucks are as simple as they get. I have never referenced the TM's. I choose not to find the information I need from the TM's
Torque specs have been the only reason I have ever needed to get out side information while working on the truck Via interweb usually.
Unlike a lot of people on this site who are content with having their MV's sitting in the drive way or looking pretty. Mine gets put to the test regularly, my craftsmanship has not let me down. No TM'S involved.
 

Merc1973

Active member
308
38
28
Location
Sykesville, MD
I don't do TM's... Takes to much time for me (unless its some really intricate stuff). Although, I found that buying MV coolant shut offs were pretty pricey. So what I did, was go to Menards and picked up 2-3/4" brass ball cock shut off valves both female ends, Went to the parts store and got 4-3/4" to 5/8" hose connectors and 4-5/8" hose clamps... Installed them inline with both sides of the heater core in a convenient spot and called it a day.... Is it correct...? I don't know and I don't care but all I know is for 1/4 of the cost, it works....


I am thinking about doing something similar with brass ball valves but instead replace the petcock style ones on the manifold and water pump.


Am I correct to assume that I would need (2) 3/4" NPT brass ball valves, (2) 3/4" NPT short nipples or 90 elbows and then (2) adapter 3/4" to 5/8" hose connectors to plumb the heater hoses?
 

gungearz

New member
1,719
4
0
Location
northwestern indiana
I am thinking about doing something similar with brass ball valves but instead replace the petcock style ones on the manifold and water pump.


Am I correct to assume that I would need (2) 3/4" NPT brass ball valves, (2) 3/4" NPT short nipples or 90 elbows and then (2) adapter 3/4" to 5/8" hose connectors to plumb the heater hoses?
That appears correct...
 

patracy

Administrator
Staff member
Administrator
14,596
4,655
113
Location
Buchanan, GA
I am thinking about doing something similar with brass ball valves but instead replace the petcock style ones on the manifold and water pump.


Am I correct to assume that I would need (2) 3/4" NPT brass ball valves, (2) 3/4" NPT short nipples or 90 elbows and then (2) adapter 3/4" to 5/8" hose connectors to plumb the heater hoses?
The TM's would tell you that 100% fact instead of a speculation. ;)
 

Merc1973

Active member
308
38
28
Location
Sykesville, MD
I found a part number from installation instructions. Drain cock: 7524043

TM 361-34p gave me part number: 0637127

However there are 2 bushings or adapters of difference sizes on water pump and manifold of which i would leave in place.

The TM's do not give specifications of the part, for example thread size.

Googling drain cock and Part # 0637127 gives me an ebay listing that says 3/8" :?:
 
Last edited:

hndrsonj

Senior Chief/Moderator
Super Moderator
Steel Soldiers Supporter
7,584
361
83
Location
Cheyenne, WY
I found a part number from installation instructions. Drain cock: 7524043

TM 361-34p gave me part number: 0637127

However there are 2 bushings or adapters of difference sizes on water pump and manifold of which i would leave in place.

The TM's do not give specifications of the part, for example thread size.

Googling drain cock and Part # 0637127 gives me an ebay listing that says 3/8" :?:
Pretty sure the adapters are 3/8x1/2 and 3/8x3/4. Napa shutoff valves are either 6601401 or 6601402 (don't remember heater hose size but they are 3/8NPT). Reading the TM shows the proper hook up points and the PS article in the link below shows the side effects of hooking it up wrong on an A2.
http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?75172-Proper-heater-hose-location
 
Top
AdBlock Detected

We get it, advertisements are annoying!

Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website like our supporting vendors. Their ads help keep Steel Soldiers going. Please consider disabling your ad blockers for the site. Thanks!

I've Disabled AdBlock
No Thanks