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Ferret 38C5968

Ferretboy

Well-known member
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Location
Ripley,ohio
Oh yes the carb......fun to take off and replace..ha.ha...youll get it im sure....hope you get the shift quadrant soon....that is a must have item.....
 

teletech

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Location
santa cruz,ca
Oh yes the carb......fun to take off and replace..ha.ha...youll get it im sure....hope you get the shift quadrant soon....that is a must have item.....
Taking it off and putting it on was really not that bad at all, of course I own a Datsun 210 so the bar is pretty high.
I'm just not sure how the starter carburetor is supposed to work and interact with the rest of the system.
 

Ferretboy

Well-known member
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Location
Ripley,ohio
Are you referring to the ckoke starter valve? Located between the two accelerator pumps....if so let me know....if you removed it for cleaning ...make sure the two notches are at the bottom when reinstalled....there is a spring loaded ball in carb body that interacts with those notches....possibly you have it 180 degree out.....did you take your carb all apart for cleaning?
 

teletech

Active member
426
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Location
santa cruz,ca
Are you referring to the ckoke starter valve? Located between the two accelerator pumps....if so let me know....if you removed it for cleaning ...make sure the two notches are at the bottom when reinstalled....there is a spring loaded ball in carb body that interacts with those notches....possibly you have it 180 degree out.....did you take your carb all apart for cleaning?
I got the inner part back in OK, but think I might have the outer plate reversed.
I didn't take it completely apart, just enough to clear out the passages. I guess I'll go deeper and do a full teardown.
 

Ferretboy

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Location
Ripley,ohio
Yes starting out with a carb that may have sit for years it would be best to do a complete cleaning....under each accel. pump is a ckeck valve with a fine mesh screen plus all the jets and passages....that nasty old gas settles out and can clog things up....a good cleaning can really help...best to you ....
 

teletech

Active member
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Location
santa cruz,ca
I went through the carburetor with a fine-tooth comb... well, little nozzle on a blow gun and some solvent really. I got it all back together and didn't even manage to loose the little glass balls. Still was having no joy once it went back on. I'd read that sometimes a fuel problem on these is an ignition problem. Changing the condenser and cleaning the points resulted in a running motor and much rejoicing. My gearshift had finally arrived from Scotland so I mounted that and while the wheels were still off determined conclusively that my gearbox will readily shift into all five gears. And lo, there was further rejoicing.
There is a learning curve on the brake spreaders for sure, I think the first one took as long as the remaining three. Those little C-clips are annoying for sure though.

Riddle me this though, what light bulbs do I need for:
The stop lamps
The interior lights
I'm wanting to start in on my electrical issues and the total lack of lamps in the stop light sockets seems like a good place to start.

For those with similar issues, I used a propane torch to heat the old condenser and yank it out of it's yolk Then set a spare off my old Dodge 230 motor in there and used a soldering gun to solder it in just one spot and then quickly dunked the item into a cup of water so it was electrically connected but not too hot for too long. Worked great, once I caught the fact I'd gotten the terminal end just touching the housing, oops.
 

teletech

Active member
426
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Location
santa cruz,ca
Thanks. For now I just stole some from my CVR(T). Looks like I should have brake lights as soon as I hook the switch back up.
The motor is now running well, I do have a bit of transmission trouble I'm afraid though. Low gear sort of works on very flat ground and lower speeds. If I encounter any sort of incline it just won't go. Makes me wonder if the band is slipping.
I also don't have good brakes. The symptoms point strongly to air in the system. I bled it pretty thoroughly I thought but while I can pump them up to get good pedal, a minute later it's happy to go to the floor when I do the first pump or two.
I fear I may have air in the cylinders, the bleed nipple is at the bottom of the bore after all. Do I have to pull the cylinders off and turn them upside-down or is there another way?DSC_0618.JPG
Another wash, this time with the burner working on the pressure-washer. It's amazing how much dirt, grease, and spider-web can still withstand boiling water at great pressure. A lot of the FDE came off, I think it might well have been latex. A couple days back I was doing some more needle-scale work when my scaler gave up.
I did uncover some markings on one bin, likely more from the miniseries.
unit-no.JPG
 
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Ferretboy

Well-known member
384
471
63
Location
Ripley,ohio
Love it....thanks for the photos.....i still think you have a movie star there....gearbox problems?i hope you have a basic manual...i can give you an idea of your gear box condition...or adjustment.....a bit involved......im No expert.....just the caretaker of 589.
 

Ferretboy

Well-known member
384
471
63
Location
Ripley,ohio
The ferrets gear box is a Wilson style pre select ....has a fluid coupling....the gear change pedal is not a clutch.....and not to be used like one....note how far your pedal comes up....in each gear.....as long as the adjusters are working.....you can tell if a band is worn out....1st gear is the worst in mine......it was driven like a clutch......the rest are very good.
 

Ferretboy

Well-known member
384
471
63
Location
Ripley,ohio
I am no expert on this gear box.....i may be totaly wrong here...dont listen to me....i never do.....just giving some info from my experience......any pros out there?......jump in please......
 

teletech

Active member
426
209
43
Location
santa cruz,ca
The ferrets gear box is a Wilson style pre select ....has a fluid coupling....the gear change pedal is not a clutch.....and not to be used like one....note how far your pedal comes up....in each gear.....as long as the adjusters are working.....you can tell if a band is worn out....1st gear is the worst in mine......it was driven like a clutch......the rest are very good.
Indeed, I've read it's a common problem of people using it like a clutch and I'm sure that's why 1st is tired. I admit that I struggled with that impulse mightily and I'm sure I contributed to that wear in 1st some myself. Is the motor is running better and I trust it more it's becoming easier. I'll try to dig out the gearbox manual and do the gauge-height adjustment on the cam block to get 1st in spec, or at least verify if the nut is at the end of travel. Until then just pedaling-up heavily before setting out and keeping it on flat land.
 

Ferretboy

Well-known member
384
471
63
Location
Ripley,ohio
Hello there teletech...just removed about 200 lbs. stuff to get 589s fuel tank out....the tank has a tag dated 1954....of all the ones ive seen...this is the only rivited and lead soldered one ive come across....31 years ago i put some gas tank sealer in and all was fine......now there is some rust......looking on you tube i see some guys using acetone to cut the old sealer out....may work....or may be a mess.....i have picked up some red kote sealer for a new lining.....but the prep is the most important step.....we shall see what happens.....best to ya mate.
 

Ferretboy

Well-known member
384
471
63
Location
Ripley,ohio
From the photos you posted of ferret 521....looks like it has the "tower side lights".....british.....the canadians used all types.....when fenders got bent and they added turn lights ect...things got changed....ferrets originally had side lights....no brake lights or turn lights....
 
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