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Ford relay vs direct switch for manual glow plugs

Thompsona3

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Hi I was wondering what the pros/cons are on useing a manual glow plug system with a old ford relay or just a switch that goes to your original glow plug relay. I understand one is simpler than the other but is there any other pros or cons.
 

Warthog

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If you put a Ford relay in then when you get rid of the truck the new owner will come here begging to know how to make it work.

Use the NAPA ST85 or an S603 from other shops and fix it right.

You can make the stock system work in manual mode with just two wires and a momentary switch.
 
I put a std relay in the cucv trucks I own that are still diesel 2 out of 4 and I have had no problems with them...Ive always thought the orginal system was way too complicated and made it much more simple with just a relay and a momantary switch..

Just hold it for 5 or 6 seconds and turn the key and varoom she starts.
 

doghead

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You loose the automatic operation that senses temperature and voltage and applies the correct amount of power(timed) and also provides "after glow".

5-6 seconds is not the correct amount of time for any particular situation.
 

Thompsona3

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I did lose the after glow and crank glow. I plan to make it manual and just hold the button while cranking. I use the post that the pink wire goes into correct? And run a switch that goes to my battery. That is if my pink has the 12 volts I need to check
 

doghead

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You heat the glow plugs prior to cranking, and while cranking.

It depends what relay you are using to determine how you would wire it.
 

Skinny

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I would think that a simple momentary contact switch to ground on the left side of the dash would be easy. That way you can give it glow while cranking over. Unless you have two right arms...

Is your system not working correctly? I wouldn't say the system is poorly designed or troublesome, just remember that these things are 30 years old. You may need a new card, temp sensor, or GP's. Everything needs to be fixed at some point. Mine has been trouble free for 3 years after getting the bugs worked out. If you really are dead set of gutting the system, use the solenoids ground wire going to the controller on a momentary contact switch and call it good. No reason to reinvent the wheel or use some ridiculously oversized switch on the dash and have the GP power going into the cab.
 

doghead

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Not if he is using a "Ford" relay.
 
I gutted the automatic system as I did not desire to have a complicated automatic system that always needed attention.

My modifications to date have worked fine and I dont have any issues..

The simple relays I have used have 4 places for wires to hookup, 2 for power ie 1 pos 1 neg... wires to the glowplugs 1 wire to the hot and one to the switch... 4 wires total nothing hard about that.

YMMV depending on attitude and the planets alignment.



You loose the automatic operation that senses temperature and voltage and applies the correct amount of power(timed) and also provides "after glow".

5-6 seconds is not the correct amount of time for any particular situation.
 
Last edited:

doghead

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Besides, the Government is probably tracking you with the original GP controller card...
 

Recovry4x4

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Like the charging system, I do not find the factory system complicated or troublesome at all. The system really starts to get screwed up when the volunteer fire guys start trying to re-invent the system. If the factory system is in place, it will be easy to troubleshoot in the future. By the way, the only thing you need to add manual operation is a piece of wire and a switch.
 

Thompsona3

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I'm just trying to figure out the best way to go. I think I'll run a live wire into a switch and them to the selenoid. KISS pholosify. I'd imagine that would work I don't see anything wrong with that. Does anyone see a problem with that? It seems easier then useing a different selenoid
 

doghead

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What relay do you have?

All that needs to be done to a stock system to have manual control is to ground the light blue wire.


This has been posted in depth many times.
 

Thompsona3

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Just looked it up and found the blue is the controller. Sorry for all the questions now I just splice the blue wire put a switch there and run it back were it was before correct? I know this isn't what this thread is about but iv been trying to trouble shoot this thing for days
 

doghead

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All that needs to be done to a stock system to have manual control is to ground the light blue wire.
 

doghead

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I know this isn't what this thread is about but iv been trying to trouble shoot this thing for days
If you follow the troubleshooting section of the -20 tm, it takes about 20 minutes to completely and methodically test the whole system.
 
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