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Front axle replacement fun!

OddballJ

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Raleigh NC
I believe I have made the decision to replace my front axle.

Overall goal for this truck:
This is an M1009 purchased last November with 22k original miles on it. As far as I know, everything is stock, but I don't know very far. By the end of this summer, I would love to have this truck as my daily driver in the mountains of NC. I intend to leave the gearing at the stock 3.08 and put 33" goodyear wrangler duratracs on before winter. One day I would like to add a manual transmission (most likely an SM465) a 2" lift kit, convert the rear brakes to discs, and be able to tow our ski boat 10 miles to the lake and back (relatively flat, nothing above 45mph)

Situation:
M1009 with a damaged right front wheel assembly due to a bad bearing. The manual locking outer hubs, hub assembly, spindle, outer axle shaft and possibly inner axle shaft, and brake caliper/shoes need to be replaced because they were damaged in the initial incident or the process of getting everything apart thereafter.
total, to replace everything for 1 side of the truck, I priced everything at between $325 and $450, and that's before I even look at the other side of the truck.

Plan:
Complete front axle replacement with an unused axle from Colemans
Front Axle Assembly, Chevy/GMC, U.S. G.I. [465901] - $395.00 :: Colemans Military Surplus LLC - Your one-stop surplus store with Army/Navy products for hunting gear, camping gear, emergency products, and survival products
Total price after shipping would be $540.

tm9-2320-289-34 paragraph 6-3 page 6-11 seems to have a detailed description of the process. That being said, I have never replaced an axle before. I hear they're heavy.

What I need:
1) Opinions. Am I off my rocker? Does this seem like a reasonable course of action? Are there better options out there? is this a decent price for a decent axle...? You know the drill. I've spent quite a bit of time lurking around here and for the most part I trust the opinion of this community at large. I'd love to hear what you think.
2) Advice. What is the best (safest) way to remove and replace an axle? Does anyone have any tips or tricks to make the process go more smoothly?

Finally, I plan to document this process should anyone have to do this in the future. My searches yielded little on this particular subject (likely because no one has been as dumb as I am and they don't need help with little things like this).

Thanks to everyone in advance :)
 

Cucvnut

Well-known member
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Location
Carver, Oregon
swapping to a new axle is 8 bolts and brake lines and a drive shaft. but on the other hand there is nothing like rebuilding something your self. have the truck on jack stands put a jack under the axle. un bolt axle use jack to pull out from under truck and reverse with new axle. just be sure you unbolt every thing before you take it out. brake lines,front drive shaft and the 4 u bolts and take of the tires.
 

Warthog

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Steel Soldiers Supporter
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It is an easy exchange. Like it has been said, make sure the truck is secure on a flat surface and good jack stands. Make sure you have additional transportation while you are doing the job. Take your time and go slow.

You are not off your rocker.

Finding parts to fix the damaged hub can possible cost you that much. Plus you will want to service the other side also.
 

kevin-m1008

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colton, or
Nothing really to add other than if you replace the front end then the old one has alot of spare parts for the future. That can save you quite a bit of money down the road.
 

OL AG '89

Member
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Kingwood, Texas
Oddball I'm bringing no Negataive waves Man.
Go for it, but you'll need a helper or two.
Biggest problem is weight of axle, coming off and going on.

Do what the others said, jackstands, all four corners, it's more stable that way.
Leave the wheels/tires on the one coming off. You can just rollout from under when disconnected.
Put wheels/tires on replacement and roll back under to hook up.
I did the rebuild on mine right after I got it and really wished I would of spent another couple bucks and done the entire axle......
Now waiting for other side to go pinchers up.....
 

Recovry4x4

LLM/Member 785
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Since you have a munged up caliper and will be replacing them, replace the brake hoses as well. On your new axle, I would at least, very least, pull the lockouts and have a looksee inside the hub. I know they are new and probably still crated but I assure you they are weathered. Might be worth the dime to call George @ White Owl to see if he has any. Lots closer so compare prices and travel expenses. The job is a walk in the park.
 

OddballJ

New member
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Location
Raleigh NC
Status update:

Truck is fully on jack stands, lighting is in place, and I've emailed the folks at white owl looking for a replacement. I'm hoping to pick up a camera to better document this and possibly start removal tomorrow afternoon.

Thanks to everyone so far :)
 

OddballJ

New member
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Location
Raleigh NC
Detach drive shaft: check
detach shock absorbers: check
realizing that I need a larger socket: check

Anyone know what size nuts are on the backing plates? I think a 7/8th's is the largest I have in my box and it needs something considerably larger.

I'm also going to need a larger socket for removing the nuts on the connecting rod as per TM.
 

SpecWarSquid

Member
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Location
Dayton, Ohio
Detach drive shaft: check
detach shock absorbers: check
realizing that I need a larger socket: check

Anyone know what size nuts are on the backing plates? I think a 7/8th's is the largest I have in my box and it needs something considerably larger.

I'm also going to need a larger socket for removing the nuts on the connecting rod as per TM.
Sounds like you're at the point of breaking the axle U-bolts loose. I can't recall what the correct size is. (if no one validates this, when i get home i can double check the socket i used). I just did this on my Suburban. If your bolts like mine haven't moved since initial assembly make sure to us lots of PB Blaster, a nice breaker bar and an ever nicer piece of pipe to slip over the breaker bar. :grin: You'll get a work out if they fight you all the way like mine did and the nuts will get smoke'n hot.
 
Last edited:

OddballJ

New member
78
0
0
Location
Raleigh NC
Sounds like you're at the point of breaking the axle U-bolts loose. I can't recall what the correct size is. (if no one validates this, when i get home i can double check the socket i used). I just did this on my Suburban. If your bolts like mine haven't moved since initial assembly make sure to us lots of PB Blaster, a nice breaker bar and an ever nicer piece of pipe to slip over the breaker bar. :grin: You'll get a work out if they fight you all the way like mine did and the nuts will get smoke'n hot.
Yessir! I did get to use a friends pneumatic air wrench the other day though, and that was pretty much the most awesome thing ever, so I may call it an "investment" or get one for Pops this fathers day and just borrow it :p

George from white owl got back to me the other day. Apparently he has a few for sale! Opinions?

--quote from George at whiteowl--
I do have a few front axle assemblies for it. I have attached pictures. I think these are new / unused but, as you can see, they are loose. The price is $350.00. If you would like more detailed pictures I will be glad to take them. As far as I know, all of the axles had 3.08 ratio.

Any idea how to tell from these pictures whether or not they are what I'm looking for?
To those of you offering to send axles from cross country, I greatly appreciate it and haven't ruled it out yet, but I would prefer one that's local enough that shipping is unnecessary. If this doesn't work out, however, I'll send you a PM [thumbzup]
 

Attachments

OddballJ

New member
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Location
Raleigh NC
yep stock 10 bolts. thats what you need. i would do a service to the new axle though. never know what its like inside.
I'm all for servicing! especially now that I know what happens when you fail to do proper servicing -_-

What would you recommend including in that service? Check bearing grease, differential fluid...?

yep. I'm still pretty new to this whole diy thing.
 

Recovry4x4

LLM/Member 785
Super Moderator
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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I would opt for one of the green ones. Note the lugnuts on the studs. The splash shields are a bit tore up but they can be bent back. I doubt that Colemens axles are in any better shape. How far is Kinston from you?
 
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