• Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!

  • Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.

Hi-lo range

txturbo

Member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
52
76
18
Location
Rosenberg,TX
I was able to get pickup and drive my truck home this weekend that I bought a couple weeks ago. It has the 53” tires on it and will only do 35mph at about 2700rpm. Seems like low range to me but I couldn’t get the lever to come up any higher. Right now the handle is parallel with the floor. How high will it be when in high range?
 

G744

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
1,700
3,795
113
Location
Hidden Valley, Az
Your transfer case is synchronized, and if there is sufficient torque while underway, it may be really hard to shift.

As said, use the clutch, or bump the throttle when moving and pulling on the lever.
 

msgjd

Well-known member
1,057
3,235
113
Location
upstate ny
Even back in the army days, sometimes the shifter linkage wasn't adjusted correctly after a changeout ... I had situations where the lever had to slap the seat frame hard to get it into Hi range, other times the seat frame wouldn't let the lever travel far enough, and other times when tight to the seat frame the transfer would pop out into neutral the second you put considerable torque on the engine.. In Hi, the tip of lever should point between 10 and 11-o'clock and the lever shaft very close to touching the seat frame.

I have also seen the adjustment too far the other way, where the floor pan won't let the lever go into Lo.. Or it does but only engages the Lo gear halfway, popping out of gear the second you apply considerable torque. Had that happen on a truck the day I bought it and was well-into a very steep hill with a car tight on my butt.. Fun surprise. There definitely is a sweet spot for proper linkage adjustment on these things.

What others have mentioned is correct, and first get that linkage lubed up... It doesn't hurt to squirt some oil on that shift rod poking out of the transfer case while you're under there .. You should pop off your floor pan, it allows better access to lube the lever pivot point and observe what's happening as you move the lever.. Hopefully nothing's wrong with the case
 
Last edited:

txturbo

Member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
52
76
18
Location
Rosenberg,TX
Even back in the army days, sometimes the shifter linkage wasn't adjusted correctly after a changeout ... I had situations where the lever had to slap the seat frame hard to get it into Hi range, other times the seat frame wouldn't let the lever travel far enough, and other times when tight to the seat frame the transfer would pop out into neutral the second you put considerable torque on the engine.. In Hi, the tip of lever should be between 10 and 11-o'clock and the lever shaft very close to touching the seat frame.

I have also seen the adjustment too far the other way, where the floor pan won't let the lever go into Lo.. Or it does but only engages the Lo gear halfway, popping out of gear the second you apply considerable torque. Had that happen on a truck the day I bought it and was well-into a very steep hill with a car tight on my butt.. Fun surprise. There definitely is a sweet spot for proper linkage adjustment on these things.

What others have mentioned is correct, and first get that linkage lubed up... It doesn't hurt to squirt some oil on that shift rod poking out of the transfer case while you're under there .. You should pop off your floor pan, it allows better access to lube the lever pivot point and observe what's happening as you move the lever.. Hopefully nothing's wrong with the case
Thank you sir. I’ll be able to do a little more once the ground dries up so I can get under it.
 

txturbo

Member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
52
76
18
Location
Rosenberg,TX
I was able to climb under it and look around briefly. Lubed everything up real good. Also looked under the seat. I can see where the lever has been hitting the plywood base. Has a dent about 1/4” deep in the wood and looks like it needs to go more. Then it started raining again. So maybe this weekend I can get in there and remove the passenger seat and see what I can do.
 

msgjd

Well-known member
1,057
3,235
113
Location
upstate ny
I was able to climb under it and look around briefly. Lubed everything up real good. Also looked under the seat. I can see where the lever has been hitting the plywood base. Has a dent about 1/4” deep in the wood and looks like it needs to go more. Then it started raining again. So maybe this weekend I can get in there and remove the passenger seat and see what I can do.
plywood base? .. no wood should extend beyond the angle-iron seat frame
 

txturbo

Member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
52
76
18
Location
Rosenberg,TX
Update….finally got some tires on the front so I can move this thing. I played around with the hi-lo range lever and noticed the shaft on the transfer case was not going all the way in with the lever pulled all the way up. It still showed about 3/4” of shiny on the shaft. So I knocked the pin out and was able to get it to go all the way in. Now I have high range. I’ll figure out the linkage another day. I’m still exhausted from tire wrestling for two days.
 
Top