Thanks Valence. I'm a fellow CB nerd as well. I prefer to use Times-LMR 240 ultraflex in all my applications since it has less loss and better shielding. 240-uf is the same size as RG-8X. I read the other threads about converting the rotary style base to 27 MHz which looked like a lot of work. That kit you bought was pricey but may be worth the time you save in DIY. To be safe, I would buy a cheap SWR meter from Radio shack or borrow someones MFJ tuner because i never trust those built in SWR meters. Your install looks top-notch!
I was thinking of installing a Mil antenna as a dummy and also installing a 102" steel whip for CB on the other side of the truck.
Thanks
Merc1973! Though you easily know much more about CB than I do. I played with CB when growing up, but I don't remember squat from that so I'm having to search the interwebs and read, read, read. I'll definitely need to take your advice and try a separate SWR meter as I have yet to pick up anyone. You are absolutely right, it was a pricey set up, but it did save me a lot of time and hassle not finding or modifying my own antenna or building my own overhead console. (I still need to "acquire" a welder and get in much practice...). "ThoseMilitaryGuys" knocked off $40 from the price of the antenna mount for not including the sugar scoop. I purchased the mount and offset bracket from
machinist75. Still need to put the cool sticker on.
I think the wiring turned out nice with insulated connectors, crimps, and heat shrink on all the ends. Except, the wire just dangling running up to the overhead console. I matched all the "hot" and ground connectors so it could not be connected backwards. I should have taken more pictures of each step as that would be far more instructional and interesting than me just rambling about it, but if I remember, I will try to go take a few more pics.
I ran 12 gauge 2-conductor wire up from the batteries. I placed the ground on my battery disconnect (so the overhead console would also be off if the battery disconnect was engaged), and I put a water proof 40A in-line fuse on the hot line (maximum safe load for 12 gauge in chassis wiring - so I could tap into the 12 gauge line later if I wanted, but fuses are easy to change!). That runs up to the center resettable 20A fuse (maximum for my dinky 24v to 12v converter), and then the center SPST (Single-Pole Single Throw) switch. This is my master power switch for the overhead console. I wanted the ability to turn off the converter.
I wish I had added another switch to the side though so I could then actually wire up my 24V interior black-out lights (seen in the far corners of the hard top). Well, another time for that.
12v power then flows out of the converter to the two side fuses and switches.
The fuse and switch closest to the driver is a 10A resettable fuse (might replace it with a 5A resettable, later), then another SPST switch. This allows me to keep my volume set on the Uniden Grant XL CB and then just use the switch to turn it on/off. Funny note here: I didn't want to cut or modify the power cord for the CB, so I wired a regular accessory outlet and attached it to one of the CB mount bolts (seen in the 2nd and 3rd pictures in my last post above). The power line on the CB has its own cylindrical 5A fuse too.
Oddly, this was only $3.00 locally, but this is exactly what I used:
http://www.amazon.com/Custom-Access...ZI/ref=sr_1_76?ie=UTF8&qid=1402510009&sr=8-76
The resettable fuse and and SPST switch closest to the passenger side is for another pair of accessory outlets that I have sitting down, wedged in the passenger seat (not pictured). It provides 2 outlets and 2 slots. I use it to hold and charge my phone.