How deep can I safely drill into the ceiling without punching through the roof?

[Napoleon_Tanerite]

I'm considering making an overhead panel to hold switches for exterior lights, interior dome lights and a few other accessories. I know that the ceiling is two separate pieces of metal, but how close together are they from just behind the windshield to about 8" back? Will 1/2" screws do, or do I need shorter ones?

 

[doghead]

I would go with 3/8" or less.

It will be very hard to pre-drill your holes, without having the drill bit pull in and dent the outer skin and leave a dent.

 

[FlatlinesUp]

I don't know the depth, but you can add a depth gauge/stop to your drill bit to help from over penetrating.

 

[bkwudzhom]

Dont have an answer--however I do have an idea. Try taking a very small bit and tape it up with several layers. This way only the depth of bit you want to use would be exposed. In theroy the heavy taping would help keep you from punching through hard and denting the top. Using a small bit first would be ideal-it would be thin enough to flex before it dented the top. Then use the smaller bit to check the depth and set that depth with tape on the size bit you need.
Let me know if it works.
BK

 

[wallew]

Instead of drilling a hole in the roof, mount those switches into the panel that is UNDER the steering wheel. It comes out. Making it very easy to drill holes for switches or to HOLD switch panels in place. That's where I'm mounting the switch for my Whelen whoopee lights as soon as I can. Right now, I just have the switch laying on the floor, but will mount it in the next few weeks.

Oh, if you want to check how much space, remove the windshield shade and CHECK how much space you actually have. Just a thought.

 

[goldneagle]

If you use a step bit (the one that makes bigger holes the deeper you go) it will stop as soon as it makes the hole. It is not a spiral so less chance it will pull in further. Once you have the hole you can use a thin screwdriver to measure the depth.

 

[doghead]

Oh, the stepbit, is a great idea!

 

[48cj2a]

I did this in the mid 80's out of 3/8 plywood, then covered the whole thing in a fabric from JoAnn Fabric in my GMC Jimmy to house my CB Radio, Offroad light switches and some map lights. Post trim hid the wiring and is readly available at a wrecking yard or eBay.

Used 3" utility hinges in two places where the headliner trim would have been next to the windshield and some L brackets to the roof panel. It should be pretty obvious when you clear the inner panel to stop, unless you are going crazy you won't hit the outer panel.

Wish I had pictures but don't have much from those days.

 

[goldneagle]

I did this in the mid 80's out of 3/8 plywood, then covered the whole thing in a fabric from JoAnn Fabric in my GMC Jimmy to house my CB Radio, Offroad light switches and some map lights. Post trim hid the wiring and is readly available at a wrecking yard or eBay.

Used 3" utility hinges in two places where the headliner trim would have been next to the windshield and some L brackets to the roof panel. It should be pretty obvious when you clear the inner panel to stop, unless you are going crazy you won't hit the outer panel.

Wish I had pictures but don't have much from those days.

Well just do it again and post some pictures!

 

[48cj2a]

Hey - Don't tempt me! Got to get the replacement 6.2 in before I start anything interior wise.

It's not that hard (hardest part was getting the cab front corner and headliner curves close)The padded fabric edges filled in the gaps with the headliner.

 

[Napoleon_Tanerite]

Hey - Don't tempt me! Got to get the replacement 6.2 in before I start anything interior wise.

It's not that hard (hardest part was getting the cab front corner and headliner curves close)The padded fabric edges filled in the gaps with the headliner.

that's why i think i'm going to mock it up with cardboard first to create templates, then trace it on sheet metal. This project is still a ways off. I've still gotta figure out how i'm going to get electricity to it. I'm thinking of running it through the ceiling, but that would be another project to route that, and I see a LOT of profanity being involved in a job like that.

 

[jimmy-90]

that's why i think i'm going to mock it up with cardboard first to create templates, then trace it on sheet metal. This project is still a ways off. I've still gotta figure out how i'm going to get electricity to it. I'm thinking of running it through the ceiling, but that would be another project to route that, and I see a LOT of profanity being involved in a job like that.

A few months back I installed an interior light for a trailer that I got from The Home Depot. That thing is crazy bright but anyhow I didn't have any trouble with drilling through the ceiling and hitting the roof with the bit. At least not hard enough to make any noticable dents. When I went to run the wireing between the ceiling and the roof however there was some kind of tar mixed with foam insulation. That stuff made it VERY difficult to run my wires between the two and messy as well. Luckily I have a tool called a STEEL FISH TAPE. It is a metal snake like tool for forcing wires through places they don't want to go. This tool is pretty much imparitive for running the wires through that thick nasty tar/insulation stuff that is packed between the ceiling and roof. Hope this helps and good luck with your project.

 

[mangus580]

Is this in a 1008 or 1009? I think i still have the wooden overhead I had made for my civvy truck... I would have to look, but it wont fit a 1009, as the ceiling contour was different.

 

[Napoleon_Tanerite]

it's a 1009

 

[Recovry4x4]

Try a TEK Screw. Just about any length you want.
Tek Screws

 

[still standing still cyco]

hey mangus, any chance you could post pics of that? im toying with the idea of something similar in my M1010, although, i'll have to build it in a way that wont intefere with the roof spotlight. thanks in advance