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Leveling a M1008

86M10086.2L

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Long Island, New York
What would you guys suggest as the most reliable, effective, and lasting way to level the front suspension of the M1008 with the back? I was going to lift my truck 4-6 inches, but after trying to get my snowmobile in the back of the truck by myself at stock height makes me put the lift on the back burner. So for now I just want to level it. The raked look is great for my 55 chevy, but not my truck. I would like to get the front close or equal to the back. Drop shakles? Lift springs? How big? I've heard blocks are a no no for the front. Is this true?
 

mangus580

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Take it to a spring shop. Have them handle it. They will probably rebuild the front springs... and adjust the height accordingly.
 

AJMBLAZER

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Got any pictures? These sat nose low from the factory by a few inches for a reason. Mine's down a few inches and that's okay.

I did add a www.OffRoadDesign.com 1" zero rate to the front springs to help clear my 38's. Sorta like a short block that bolts into the pack. Too short to cause any funny wrap issues but since it's bolted into the pack and not an add a leaf it won't go anywhere or increase your spring rate.


JCWhitney sells replacement spring packs that get decent reviews.
 

CCATLETT1984

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For now:
have them make up new spring packs for the front. yours are worn out i bet. you can have an extra leaf added. they can even add a short leaf (like a zero rate).


when you lift it:
if you want them to last, and not be weak. get superlift springs for the front.

for the rear have the factory spring packs checked out, if they are fine you can use them.
get a 2" zero-rate for the rear and a shackle flip.
 

Armada

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Chris is right, Superlift springs up front will stand up to the extra weight of the 6.2L engine, U6TL batteries, etc. I have them on my M1009.
It has not dropped/sagged/settled in 2 years.
 

AJMBLAZER

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There's other brands out there with better reputations than Superlift. Personally I'd go with Tuff Country myself. Better selection and...I think...their HD line is closer to the actual GM spring rating these trucks have.
 

CCATLETT1984

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better reputation? please explain?

I have yet to see a broken superlift spring, I have seen several tuff country and rough country springs break first hand.

Superlift springs are stiffer than factory, but if you want mininal lift with big tires you want springs that dont flex, so you dont chew up your fenders. (I dont hack them up, it looks retarded.) Also superlift springs dont settle down like other springs do. they stay at the height as installed, no sagging issues (unlike other brands of springs)
 

86M10086.2L

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Location
Long Island, New York
well, It's starting to look like for all the work I'm gonna do for the front, I should just lift the whole truck. More work and money, but if I'm already gonna take the spring out and apart to put zero rates in, why not just throw a lift spring in while I'm there? I can make a ramp for my snowmobile or I'll just pull it on the trailer again a pay the few extra dollars for it going through the tolls. And as for fitting in the jeep trails with my truck, I guess I'll just bring my buddy the bow saw along for the ride should I find something I wont just drive the truck though. I'm working on pictures, is there any tricks to posting them?
 

mangus580

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Lift it & use the trailer. Snowmoblies are so much easier to handle on the trailer :)

As for pics... check the 'tips & tricks' forum for info.
 

AJMBLAZER

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www.ColoradoK5.com

You won't find many folks there running Superstiff springs for a reason. Buckboard ride and crappy quality. They aren't what they were 20 years ago.





All you have to do to put the zero rates in is unbolt the u-bolts, clamp the pack together, remove the center pin, install the zero rate, and then do the reverse to reinstall everything.

Truck looks good, minus the rims, and has a normal rake to it.
 

86M10086.2L

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Location
Long Island, New York
alright here's the deal. I want to run Hummer Beadlocks, with 33X12.50/16.5 tires. I've been reading alot about the shackle flips and lift kits and so forth. I think I'm gonna run the 4 inch shackle flip with the stock springs in the back and run the overload spring upsidedown for a little more articulation. And 4 inch superlift HD srpings in the front. I actually take my truck off road on a regular basis which is mostly jeep trails and the stock setup is ok, but I need bigger tires. I always high center on the axles in the mud holes/ruts or I dig in on steep hill climbs. I don't trim fenders, and I don't want my tires getting chewed up by the body or suspension. Can I run the 4 inch setup with the 33X12.5's and be ok? I'd actually like to run a 35's and a six inch lift but due to local trail size constraints 4 inch and 33's are more practical. I'm not interested in re-engineering the truck or running a monster truck size lift. I don't mind the stiff ride and I'm no rock crawler, but I would like to see alittle axle flexing.
 

AJMBLAZER

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4" and 33's should work as long as you put spacers on to counter act the large amount of backspacing of those HMMWV wheels.
Beware though as 16.5" tire sizes are getting rare and the sub-35" sizes even rarer.

You shouldn't have to worry about the tires flexing into the fenders with Superlift springs. Like I said before, there's a reason you don't see many folks running them over on CK5 and they have the nickname of Superstiff. Higher than factory GVWR = no flex and bad ride.
My buddy's 78 3/4 ton has Superlift 6" springs and holy crap it's got about nothing for suspension travel and the ride is horrible.
Once again I'll strongly recommend Tuff Country's HD springs.

Be aware that the shackle flip will push your rear axle forwards about an inch.


Why's everyone so afraid to cut their fenders? Weenies. :wink:
 

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CCATLETT1984

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It just doesnt look right.

Gimpy has ridden in my truck for ~700miles and he didnt complain about the ride. Stiffer than stock means you can actually feel the road.

For running the hmmwv rims, you need to get a set of 2" dually wheel spacers. Be sure to get the ones for the EARLY chevy/ford, as the newer ones are a metric pattern.
 

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