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Lights & Gauges went out

Yohan

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*I searched this topic and found some info. I pulled TM 9-2320-361-20 and found a trouble shooting test for this, but I don't think it addresses what the problem is- but I'm no expert. It's dark out and I'm just looking for some input.*

My batteries are good. The truck starts first time, all the time and cranks like crazy. I tested my three way switch last summer (with a meter) per a test I found and it was all good. My headlights, turn signals, gauges have been working fine. I tested my generator with the truck running and it makes the proper voltage. I did this because the meter read that it was over charging, but I confirmed it was not.

So today...

  1. I took the Deuce for a 5 mile trip. Then after dark, I drove it 5 miles back home.
  2. My headlights, dash lights, and gauges were all working. My signals were working- sometimes they do not.
  3. I parked it in the drive and was letting it idle for the usual 5 min. cool-down.
  4. For some unknown reason, I switched off the main power switch before shutting off my lights on the three-way switch.
  5. I then lost all of my lights, front & back, and all of my electric gauges.
  6. Bjorn said in an old post that a circuit breaker in the 3 way switch resets itself after about a minute, so I went out about 20 minutes later and still nothing when I turn on the main power switch (no low air buzzer, no gauges, no starty, nothing).
I am not aware of any fuses on the Deuce- am I wrong? In the morning I will double check my batteries and make sure all connections are tight. This puppy is just plain dead. I might try swapping my 3 way switch from my 5 ton to my Deuce (is this worth doing?) Does it sound like I will need to buy another 3 way? Any insight will be greatly appreciated. :-(
 

rchalmers3

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Could be a main power switch as well. I recommend using a voltmeter tomorrow as you check first the battery voltage at the battery posts, then onto the cables, and onwards towards the main switch and light switch.

Rick
 

Yohan

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For starters, I'd disconect the batteries and do a load test on them.
2cents
Thank you! But, would I suddenly loose all power when I flicked the main power switch because the batteries are bad when they have shown all the signs of running strong (like how fast they crank the engine on start-up)? Maybe my neighbor has a load-test tester. I think they're also called a pile tester or something...



"Could be a main power switch as well. I recommend using a voltmeter tomorrow as you check first the battery voltage at the battery posts, then onto the cables, and onwards towards the main switch and light switch."

OK, thank you! I'm guessing I leave the batts hooked up in series and check that there's 24v with test leads on their respective battery posts, right?

As far as moving on from there, I might as well be trying to fly a fighter jet. :-( I can see if any connections to the main switch are lose. I jiggled things around behind the three-way and it all seemed tight. (You know, the "jiggle test"? It's used by dopes like me when they have no other clue about what the h*ll is going on!)

The way I lost everything, it was like a fuse blowing or a lightbulb going out, so I guess my instincts (or past experience with fuses and lightbulbs?:cookoo:) tells me something failed or burned-out. Maybe I'm desperately hoping someone might say, "Oh, that's just your Flux Capacitor! Swap it for a new one and everything will work good again!" Thanks for the help. I'll start digging around tomorrow. :beer:
 
Last edited:

gunboy1656

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If your not getting any response from the truck (no buzzer, no start and so on) that would pretty much eliminate the 3 way switch.

Master power switch would be my starting place.
 

stancanpara

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Thank you! But, would I suddenly loose all power when I flicked the main power switch because the batteries are bad when they have shown all the signs of running strong (like how fast they crank the engine on start-up)? Maybe my neighbor has a load-test tester. I think they're also called a pile tester or something.

Yes, if you lost a cell, it might even show 12 and 12 or 11.5 and 12 etc/ 24 volts but no amps.

Or a cable might have come loose and it's showing volts but no amps.

IMO it's always best to start with the simple and work your way up from there...

If all connections are CLEAN and tight, then a quick load test on each one, then check cables on up to checking the switch, etc...

Just my 2cents and not really worth that... ;-) Just my humble opinion... [thumbzup]
 

gunboy1656

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If the truck starts first time, drove it 10 miles no problem. Is a battery going to lose a cell or 2 just sitting in a driveway? You can check the battery to double check, but I doubt you find a problem.
 

stancanpara

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If the truck starts first time, drove it 10 miles no problem. Is a battery going to lose a cell or 2 just sitting in a driveway? You can check the battery to double check, but I doubt you find a problem.
Yep, when it goes, it goes, it aint MacArthur, it don't just fade away... ask me how I know...

Not saying this is what his problem is, but.... ya gots ta start somewheres....
 

Yohan

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GREAT NEWS! I started with the most simple...

  1. Throwing the master switch this morning and still nothing.
  2. Bust out volt meter and tool kit.
  3. Open battery compartment and see hot lead completely off the battery post.
  4. Reconnect and secure... low buzzer, all lights, he's alive again!
  5. B-line into the house and...
A sincere Thank You to everyone for all the pointers and advice AND for not flaming me. I always suspect the worse case when something goes wrong because that's my life. I feel bad for wasting band-width and hope I don't make anyone mad for posting my problem. I hope I can give back now and then with my limited knowledge... :beer:
 

Warthog

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The tech manuals say to always check the batteries before starting any electrical work. This includes charging, load testing and checking the connections.

Glad you found the issue. Good job.
 
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