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LMTV CTIS Question

Mullaney

Well-known member
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Hello Everyone,
I have run into a holdup on the updated wheel valve release so I am perusing a rebuild kit instead. This kit would include a vented cover and protective bracket, new diaphragm good for -30F operation, and screws. The seat and spring would be your responsibility to clean and reuse.

Here is the the major concern: The cover screws are extremely hard to remove without breaking and they fail right at the body. I would like to get some feedback from many of you on the success rate of loosening these screw.

NOTE! Do not use a drill or impact until they are loosened. You may also try a moderate bit of heat on the body at the screw location. If you break one screw, 3 will hold the cover on fine. Even 2 screws across from each other will sufficiently hold the lid on. Small leaks during inflations and deflations ore acceptable.

Thanks, hope to here from you.....
.
Penetrating oil for several days.
It isn't great but I try the screw, apply more penetrating oil, try the screw again (and so on).

.
 

DeMilitarized

Well-known member
360
966
93
Location
Gainesville, GA
Hello Everyone,
I have run into a holdup on the updated wheel valve release so I am perusing a rebuild kit instead. This kit would include a vented cover and protective bracket, new diaphragm good for -30F operation, and screws. The seat and spring would be your responsibility to clean and reuse.

Here is the the major concern: The cover screws are extremely hard to remove without breaking and they fail right at the body. I would like to get some feedback from many of you on the success rate of loosening these screw.

NOTE! Do not use a drill or impact until they are loosened. You may also try a moderate bit of heat on the body at the screw location. If you break one screw, 3 will hold the cover on fine. Even 2 screws across from each other will sufficiently hold the lid on. Small leaks during inflations and deflations ore acceptable.

Thanks, hope to here from you.....
Using heat from a blow torch and penetrating oil and putting the whole casing in a vice horizontally I have yet to break one.
 

Lostchain

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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93
Location
Portland, OR
Hello Everyone,
I have run into a holdup on the updated wheel valve release so I am perusing a rebuild kit instead. This kit would include a vented cover and protective bracket, new diaphragm good for -30F operation, and screws. The seat and spring would be your responsibility to clean and reuse.

Here is the the major concern: The cover screws are extremely hard to remove without breaking and they fail right at the body. I would like to get some feedback from many of you on the success rate of loosening these screw.

NOTE! Do not use a drill or impact until they are loosened. You may also try a moderate bit of heat on the body at the screw location. If you break one screw, 3 will hold the cover on fine. Even 2 screws across from each other will sufficiently hold the lid on. Small leaks during inflations and deflations ore acceptable.

Thanks, hope to here from you.....
I rebuilt my 7 ( truck/trailer/spare) and didn’t break a single screw? I only used hand tools though… but I am curious if the seat could be made available because all of mine were quite pitted and I could only clean them by hand with steel wool. It was the worst part of the job. Would love to have been able to just buy new seats in a kit. They looked threaded to me but I didn’t try to remove them.
 

GeneralDisorder

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Location
Portland, OR
I use some penetrating oil, then also "shock" the top of the screw head straight down with a hammer and punch. Work them back and forth gently till they come out. I have a very high success rate this way. But some are going to break no matter what you do. Drilling them out after they are broken off is possible but takes a keen eye and skill in the art of broken fastener extraction - a true art form that takes decades to develop. Best method is to either EDM or mill them out. Hand drill can work but if you get off in the rhubarb with the bit you'll wreck the valve body because the aluminum body is much softer than the broken screw.
 
Last edited:

Ronmar

Well-known member
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7,352
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Location
Port angeles wa
What General said punch in the middle of the screw head and tap with a hammer to break up the white powdered oxide between aluminum case and steel threads. Have the same issue with old motorcycle case screws and shocking them has proven very effective over the years. Shocking/tapping while applying torque even more so...
 

Awesomeness

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Steel Soldiers Supporter
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Location
Orlando, FL
Are there more than one style of the CTIS wheel valve housings? I know there are a few versions of the hoses, but does the valve body change too? Is there only one set of internal replacement parts (e.g. diaphram, seat, spring, etc.)?
 

Stellaevil

Active member
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Location
Michigan
I rebuilt my 7 ( truck/trailer/spare) and didn’t break a single screw? I only used hand tools though… but I am curious if the seat could be made available because all of mine were quite pitted and I could only clean them by hand with steel wool. It was the worst part of the job. Would love to have been able to just buy new seats in a kit. They looked threaded to me but I didn’t try to remove them.
They are threaded. I did not want to include the seat as the kit without the seat would service 10 or so part number wheel valves, with the seat it would only be specific to one or two valves. I can check about making the seat available for LMTV/FMTV
 

GeneralDisorder

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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113
Location
Portland, OR
Yes it started on the A1P2
Ah that makes sense. Those trucks aren't seen on the civilian side - the military hasn't marked them for disposal yet - in fact the A1 trucks are still authorized at some levels. Only the A0 trucks are technically past their useful life and have a Maintenance Expenditure Limit (MEL) of zero dollars. So if the unit is no longer authorized to have the truck on their MTOE it will not get transferred - it will go to DLA where it may be picked up by another government agency via the 1033 program or sent to auction. A1's have a decreasing MEL but not zero so depending on how much work they need they might get fixed and kept, transferred to another section, or if no other section of that command has an opening for such a vehicle they will go to DLA. But A1P2's are not yet at even that point as they are the current workhorse of 2.5 and 5 tons logistics. We do not know yet if they will be sold intact or "demilitarized" by having the cab removed prior to auction. Some will surely survive through federal and state agencies and the 1033 program but it remains to be seen what DLA will require for the bulk. Since several armored cabs on their own have been auctioned I guess we can all be hopeful.
 
Last edited:

ryoung2024

New member
8
4
3
Location
Belgrade, Montana
I'd really recommend getting a diagnostic interface and the Dana software(free). There is also a ton of other software for other parts of the truck you can access with same interface - getting that software other software can be problematic(expensive). If you want more detailed info you can send me a message.

I really appreciate your time in sharing with us still learning our way around our trucks.
I own a m1088a1r and I am in search of the options out there for diagnostic software. One in particular is the dana diagnostic tool that many refer to as free download, but i cannot seem to find the link or site to get the software. I go to their site and it seems to dead end... I am also looking for other more indepth software tools that could me read and display live parameters of the cat 3126 and allison tranny...
Do you know of any specific sites to use to find these software tools?

Thank you for your time and I appreciate any help can offer.
ron
 

Lostchain

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
284
584
93
Location
Portland, OR
I really appreciate your time in sharing with us still learning our way around our trucks.
I own a m1088a1r and I am in search of the options out there for diagnostic software. One in particular is the dana diagnostic tool that many refer to as free download, but i cannot seem to find the link or site to get the software. I go to their site and it seems to dead end... I am also looking for other more indepth software tools that could me read and display live parameters of the cat 3126 and allison tranny...
Do you know of any specific sites to use to find these software tools?

Thank you for your time and I appreciate any help can offer.
ron

Here is the Dana Software. What reader do you have?
 

GeneralDisorder

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
1,997
5,126
113
Location
Portland, OR
I really appreciate your time in sharing with us still learning our way around our trucks.
I own a m1088a1r and I am in search of the options out there for diagnostic software. One in particular is the dana diagnostic tool that many refer to as free download, but i cannot seem to find the link or site to get the software. I go to their site and it seems to dead end... I am also looking for other more indepth software tools that could me read and display live parameters of the cat 3126 and allison tranny...
Do you know of any specific sites to use to find these software tools?

Thank you for your time and I appreciate any help can offer.
ron
Engine and transmission software is a more involved topic. The WABCO ABS is relatively easy but all three require paid software - there is a military version of CAT "ET" (Electronic Technician) that's floating around. The Allison software is a real PITA - they have it heavily locked down.

For simple diagnostics like fault codes and basic live data - don't you have a utility for the NexIQ that will query all the modules, live data streams, and fault codes? The Dearborn Protocol Adapters have such a utility - DPA 3, IV, and V all have a "Dana Diagnostics" application that is very useful for that level of functionality without having all the pay-to-use manufacturer software.
 
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