m1008 won't start after 2 days of 30 ish at night

[CUCVLOVER]

Hi Everyone this is my first post so please excuse any errors.


OK so once it turned cold myvtruck wouldn't start if it sat for two days but if I started every day it was fine. It was like the batteries were dead. They are only a year old and they both are interstate crankers with about 1200 cranking amps and 850 cold.
Any advice would be greatly appreciated
Thank you

 

[doghead]

Start by charging and load testing your batteries.

Next, check you battery voltages off and with the truck running.

Tell us what you get.

 

[CUCVLOVER]

Thanks for the info. I have checked the voyage at full charge and on both batteries its about 26 volts and running with nothing on and alternators putting out I get 29 ish but I don't have a digital tester just an analog.

The batteries hold plenty of charge when its 40 F and up and
I have never have this problem when the truck has warmed up.
Also when I crank it up I get the impression that if the motor was locked up the batteries would knock the starter off on the ground. I have 6 kc lights on top of the truck for 600 watts of power and I have another 200 watt in the brush guard and I have the biggest head lights that is made for the truck and it runs all that fine.

Thank you

 

[doghead]

Drive to a store and get your batteries load tested.

 

[MarcusOReallyus]

and I have the biggest head lights that is made for the truck and it runs all that fine.

Thank you

Hi, and welcome. Once you get the starting problem worked out, you probably should look into a headlight harness upgrade. That headlight circuit is a marginal design, and it's 30 years old. It really can't handle much extra load.

 

[CUCVLOVER]

OK. All get them tested it might be few days though.

 

[doghead]

My next thoughts are either the starter motor is dieing or an alternator(diode trio) is draining a battery.

 

[doghead]

When you measure the battery voltage, simple check each battery individually at it's terminals.

Report back like this,

front bat, off voltage xx.xx
Front bat, running voltage xx.xx

Rear bat, off voltage xx.xx
Rear bat, running voltage xx.xx

Looking for 12-15 volts roughly.

No 24 volt readings this way.

 

[CUCVLOVER]

Hi, and welcome. Once you get the starting problem worked out, you probably should look into a headlight harness upgrade. That headlight circuit is a marginal design, and it's 30 years old. It really can't handle much extra load.

They have died before, now the truck has new head light, blinker, and dimmer switches. And bypassed blackout switches I wanted to keep them working But I needed other stuff more

 

[CUCVLOVER]

When you measure the battery voltage, simple check each battery individually at it's terminals.

Report back like this,

front bat, off voltage xx.xx
Front bat, running voltage xx.xx

Rear bat, off voltage xx.xx
Rear bat, running voltage xx.xx

Looking for 12-15 volts roughly.

No 24 volt readings this way.

Iv done that and it is in the range you described and I've checked in different temps just not when it wouldn't start I just charged a little and it cranked

 

[phil2968]

Check the battery voltage after charging and sitting all night. It should be 12.5 volts. The difference between fully charged and dead is only .5 volt. That means 12.2 volts in a rested battery means it is really low. 12.5 does not mean it will pass a load test however.

 

[CUCVLOVER]

My next thoughts are either the starter motor is dieing or an alternator(diode trio) is draining a battery.

OK. When I bought the truck a year ago the guy said it had brand new alternators. Any way to check the diodes? Why would it only do this when its cold out side?

 

[Warthog]

Buy a $10 digital volt meter at wally world.

 

[CUCVLOVER]

Check the battery voltage after charging and sitting all night. It should be 12.5 volts. The difference between fully charged and dead is only .5 volt. That means 12.2 volts in a rested battery means it is really low. 12.5 does not mean it will pass a load test however.

OK I'll try that as soon as I pick up a digital volt tester.

 

[CUCVLOVER]

OK thanks for the info on a tester warthog

 

[Warthog]

Another item that I use all the time is the battery load tester. I bought mine at Harbor Freight for about $20. While it isn't the best on the market it will do the job on giving you an idea of the condition of your batteries. Of course some people like the latest gadgets that cost big bucks.

http://www.harborfreight.com/100-amp-612v-battery-load-tester-61747.html

 

[CUCVLOVER]

Another item that I use all the time is the battery load tester. I bought mine at Harbor Freight for about $20. While it isn't the best on the market it will do the job on giving you an idea of the condition of your batteries. Of course some people like the latest gadgets that cost big bucks.

http://www.harborfreight.com/100-amp-612v-battery-load-tester-61747.html

View attachment 531574

Thanks next time up there I'll get one

 

[phil2968]

Trying to work on electrics without a VOM is like trying to test blood pressure by feeling your arm. Just ain't goin' to work out!
I have been able to feel the "tricity" is wires a few times though. Usually spark plug wires!

 

[MarcusOReallyus]

They have died before, now the truck has new head light, blinker, and dimmer switches. And bypassed blackout switches I wanted to keep them working But I needed other stuff more

The problem isn't the switch, it's the supply circuit. Fried fuse boxes are not all that uncommmon.

But I don't want to sidetrack this thread, so I'll just give you a few links to check out and shut up on this.


CUCV Headlight Circuit
http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthr...dlight-Circuit

CUCV Melting Headlight Fuse and Horn Circuit fix
http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthr...t-fuse-melting

LMC Headlight Wiring Harness upgrade
http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthr...ht-circuit-mod

 

[CUCVLOVER]

One thing I thought about was is the oil getting supper thick and the starter uses so much power it drains the batteries enough so it won't start? Just a thought .


Thanks