Ronmar
Well-known member
- 3,782
- 7,352
- 113
- Location
- Port angeles wa
The troubleshooting guide says it needs to be above 21v… have no idea if it will work below that…Bump in case it got lost in the Easter Egg Hunts
Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!
The troubleshooting guide says it needs to be above 21v… have no idea if it will work below that…Bump in case it got lost in the Easter Egg Hunts
DriverDarrell is the 2016 posts, are we wishing to rehash what was solved 8 years ago?wait... so how did you still have 24v showing on the dash yet have the leads swapped?
‘Those who do not learn from history are forever doomed to repeat it”DriverDarrell is the 2016 posts, are we wishing to rehash what was solved 8 years ago?
no,- reviewed the thread since it came back up.... sparked a hope that mayyyyyyyyybe by remote chance my charging failure is not a bad regulator after all. Hence the questionDriverDarrell is the 2016 posts, are we wishing to rehash what was solved 8 years ago?
I agree with using related threads rather than starting anew. Will add that often folks, myself included, do not realize a thread is old and stale and direct questions toward those whom have long ago left. DriverDarrell was last seen in fall 2022. Hope springs eternal. He verified the voltages on each leg from the batteries? What are your legs telling you?no,- reviewed the thread since it came back up.... sparked a hope that mayyyyyyyyybe by remote chance my charging failure is not a bad regulator after all. Hence the question
PS- .. tis actually considered good Netiquette TO NOT start new threads but instead ask in existing threads on the topic.... Especially when all one seeks is more refined info or clarity of things found there.
my right Achilles is telling me to stop tumbling. Ive given up on the alternator issue right now... I got to get to work and back and that exhaust me as it is.... so I just charge batts at home and then often again once I get to work.I agree with using related threads rather than starting anew. Will add that often folks, myself included, do not realize a thread is old and stale and direct questions toward those whom have long ago left. DriverDarrell was last seen in fall 2022. Hope springs eternal. He verified the voltages on each leg from the batteries? What are your legs telling you?
If you pay the shipping round trip I’ll bench test your regulator for free, I have a spare alternator I can test it on, and I can load bank it.my right Achilles is telling me to stop tumbling. Ive given up on the alternator issue right now... I got to get to work and back and that exhaust me as it is.... so I just charge batts at home and then often again once I get to work.
Mighty kind of you..... but it's a 200amp alt that appears to have the bad regulator and not the 100If you pay the shipping round trip I’ll bench test your regulator for free, I have a spare alternator I can test it on, and I can load bank it.
oh darn, I could test the whole alt for you but the shipping would be pretty spendy..Mighty kind of you..... but it's a 200amp alt that appears to have the bad regulator and not the 100
been when weather allows.... concentrating on putting fresh engine in my daily driver. that put me in the truck as last resort.oh darn, I could test the whole alt for you but the shipping would be pretty spendy..
Have you tried wiring up a small set of batteries directly to the alternator? If you do this carefully it will completely rule out any faulty wiring or other issues in the truck.
View attachment 920419
Well if you are sure of your connections between alt and battery(voltage drop test pass), and your excite voltage(forward screw terminal on alternator) is above 21V, then that sounds like a regulator issue…I start out with green lights and 28-29v/14-15v and after a few minuets running my gauge starts dipping and I start getting amber on 24 and red on 12 with24-25 and 12.6v. If I disconnect and reconnect power to alt I get power for a few seconds. Also I don't have a polarity protector.batterys are new
For the 100a/260a/300a dual voltage Neihoff, Flashing Red = Over voltage, either intermittent or steady, on either 28v or 14v side or both. Shutdown is at 32v on 28 side or 16v on 14 side. I went thru this whole annoying process on mine. Best to bench top test it like @Lostchain shows.Having found the C E niehoff troubleshooting guide on line I see that a flashing red means over current. Im thinking Im thinking Igot something wired wrong where the polarity protector was. I think I got some 24 going to the 12
We get it, advertisements are annoying!
Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website like our supporting vendors. Their ads help keep Steel Soldiers going. Please consider disabling your ad blockers for the site. Thanks!