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M1078 No Start...Not even trying.

GTR0419

Member
82
24
8
Location
Atlanta, GA
So, after all the back and forth, I ordered a new WTEC II VIM at a GREAT price and took a chance on a WTEC II ECU that came in unknown working condition. It too was a great deal and I figured if it didn't work I could get it rebuilt for $200. I was cautiously optimistic when it arrived last night. The case had been damaged, but otherwise it looked basically new. No press marks on the selector buttons, etc. When I removed the selector panel to investigate the inside, BIG SMILE! It was clean (like new clean) with no sign of internal damage and there was an "Allison 2012" decal staring me in the face! Of course new doesn't mean it works (I know it's not really new since they haven't made WTEC II ECU's for years, but probably rebuilt by the factory). I installed both parts, checked all the connections, turned on the power switch, hit the start button, and...she immediately came to life! WhoooHooo!!! The beast is alive and well. Runs strong. Pressures, temps, idle are all excellent. I haven't driven it yet because I want to take the ECU to Allison and make sure it has the correct CIN programming. But it is such a relief to her it roar! Thanks to every one who helped.
 

snowtrac nome

Well-known member
1,674
138
63
Location
western alaska
I would run the sn on the transmission the vim box could have been cannibalized, mine was when I picked it up the whole reason it was advertised as not running.
 

DIESEL1121

New member
1
0
0
Location
MAQUOKETA, IA
Hello i have a m1078 it would crank but not start i got it started shut it off tried to restart it and now will not crank, i have the top off the starter relay and if i push the contactor over it starts right up looking for where to look

thank you
 

Ronmar

Well-known member
3,782
7,352
113
Location
Port angeles wa
Welcome to the forum. Since you have a different problem, how about starting a new thread instead of resurecting a 4 year old one... might also help if you put the year and version(A0,A1) of your truck so we can maybe give you some accurate ideas where to look...

As mentioned could be power getting interrupted somewhere and not enabling the start circuit. Does the transmission display light up? Does it stay lit when you push the start button?
 
Last edited:

Dmoneygage

Member
71
21
8
Location
Maui, Hawaii
The pic of the jumper is here.
http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?108761-Oops-I-won-an-m1088-tractor/page5

I also was wondering if you had the right relays with the right voltages in the right sockets. If yours is an older truck, it is easy to put the wrong voltage relay into the wrong socket. iirc, most are 12v and a few 24v. This pdf has the distribution panel layout, the relays, voltages and the circuit breakers. I used ATO fuses because it would be quicker to see if I had a bad circuit. I n the early days of me working on the M1094, I put the red arrows next to the relay/circuits I thought I needed work to, to start the truck... I had no relays or CBs , so I overdid it a little for safety sake, and later, added more relays and fuses as I verified circuits. If you haven't done so yet, you may want to read my thread on my rebuild of the Flying Dump Truck;). I tried to document everything I could for others as there was very little out there on these trucks when I started.

On the battery front, I've only used 2 batteries and now only a 6TL and (Ithink) a 24N ???. I need to check, but Optimas group 34 without the spacer may fit in the tray and allow the cover to fit. Anyways, that isn't high on my priority list.

Lastly, just curious, was your truck a WTEC II or WTEC III ? The trucks are wired differently for each and not directly interchangeable.

Thank you for providing this pdf file.
Figure 7-1 shows the pdp
7-1-1 shows breakers diode and relays.

what are D1, D2, D3 on the top left corner of the power distribution panel (figure 7-1 ) ? Are they relays ? 24v or 12v ?
Diodes? I don’t see them listed ??
 

Dmoneygage

Member
71
21
8
Location
Maui, Hawaii
They are diode arrays. Maybe for voltage spikes. I have new ones.
The new ones you have are for sale?
Do you have a part number?
can they be checked?ohms or something?
I was just trying to familiarize myself with the diagram, relay locations of 12v or24, fuses etc. I am preparing to pick up an auction truck that “does not run”.
Thanks for the help.
 
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