New 5 inch lift. no tires yet. what do ya think

[cade]

Very nice!! If you don't mind me asking, how much was the lift from ORD? Can't wait to see it with some bigger tires!

 

[musclecars664]

The whole kit ran me about 1G. But it would be more or less depending on what you buy. well worth it though all the parts are very good quality.

 

[four_by_ken]

The whole kit ran me about 1G. But it would be more or less depending on what you buy. well worth it though all the parts are very good quality.

I just wanted to add... that lifting a truck by way of buying through ORD may cost a little more, but its worth it. You get a much better ride and you get a suspension that will actually work (articulate nicely).

You can lift it cheaper... but cheap is what you get.

 

[akonitony]

I've been talking with Matt, the owner of Virginia 4x4, which is where I am getting the front perches to do my lift with 52" front springs. He uses a waterjet to cut his parts rather than a plasma cutter to eliminate any HAZ (Heat Affected Zone) which makes the metal brittle. His parts are very nice, even though they are a little more expensive. Anyway, he honors military with a discount, not sure how much yet, as we are still negotiating on the prices for kits for 4 of my CUCV trucks, and he may design some parts for doing a bob on one of my deuces, so I will keep you all posted. He has offered to give me a complete kit if I will do a comparison write up of his kit versus a DIY4X kit, and posting it on the DIY4X website. Not sure how I would get away with that yet...
Anyway, if several of us write him at matt@virginia4x4.com he would probably be more inclined to give us better prices on his products. From the pics on his website, his items are much better quality than DIY4x, or ORD. For one thing, they are waterjet cut, and another they are powdercoated. As he put it, it's like a cadillac vs a chevy. Both are GM, but which one cost more because you get more.

 

[akonitony]

Here's a preview:

 

[danochamp]

How much did that whole kit cost you?

And what is that zero turn stuff?

 

[akonitony]

I sent a scanned copy of my military ID card, and Matt gave me a price I couldn't refuse. I still haven't installed the rear shackle flips, but they are a perfect match to the front perches as far as answering the question: where's the beef?
Matt let me have both the front and rear kits for $160 each, but that is with the military discount. Otherwise, he is pretty firm on his pricing. The fronts go for $200, and the rears go for $220. Like I said, he honors the military, and he's a super nice guy to deal with. I was tempted to buy the DIY4X kits, but after talking with Matt, and him being very patient with answering every question I could think of, I went for what I would conside the best parts on the market hands down. The pics don't show the intricate dove-tail interlocking where each piece fits together and is then welded. That waterjet he uses to cut out the pieces is quite amazing in it's accuracy. I doubt a plasma cutter could even come close.
As far as the other part of your question, I'm not sure what you mean by zero-turn stuff? If you're talking about the missing pitman arm, I am ging to go to crossover steering and need to install a drop down pitman facing rearward so I can clear the crossmember.

 

[four_by_ken]

I think the question was zero rates... they are small leaf/block parts that bolt into the spring pack and give you a 1 inch lift.
Add a Leafs, Zero Rate for 4x4 Suspensions from Offroad Design


Also know as Easy Inch
EZ Inch

 

[akonitony]

I thought of that too, but my leafs are not in the pics, so I figured he might be asking about the missing pitman arm. I don't think I would want zero rates on the front. They are ok on the rear, but even though they are part of the spring pack, they still look like they would act as levers for some spring wrap. I have heard some good things about them as well, and if this truck looks a little bulldogged when I finish her up, I will probably go with a set of zero rates in the back to give it a more sporty look.

 

[four_by_ken]

I was concerned at first too... but after seeing what people are doing with their trucks and using the zero rates... etc... I am no longer concerned.

 

[spink7124]

I've been talking with Matt, the owner of Virginia 4x4, which is where I am getting the front perches to do my lift with 52" front springs. He uses a waterjet to cut his parts rather than a plasma cutter to eliminate any HAZ (Heat Affected Zone) which makes the metal brittle. His parts are very nice, even though they are a little more expensive. Anyway, he honors military with a discount, not sure how much yet, as we are still negotiating on the prices for kits for 4 of my CUCV trucks, and he may design some parts for doing a bob on one of my deuces, so I will keep you all posted. He has offered to give me a complete kit if I will do a comparison write up of his kit versus a DIY4X kit, and posting it on the DIY4X website. Not sure how I would get away with that yet...
Anyway, if several of us write him at matt@virginia4x4.com he would probably be more inclined to give us better prices on his products. From the pics on his website, his items are much better quality than DIY4x, or ORD. For one thing, they are waterjet cut, and another they are powdercoated. As he put it, it's like a cadillac vs a chevy. Both are GM, but which one cost more because you get more.

Dude, I don't know what your deal is pimpin the Virgina 4x4 stuff, but it completely unfair to say that he makes "Cadillac" parts and DIY's stuff is of less quality. I have several DIY parts on my truck and they are super beefy and of awesome quality. How do waterjet cut parts improve quality? DIY means do it yourself; that's why those parts don't come painted, or with instructions. In turn the savings is passed along to us. Matter of fact, if you are going to all the trouble of putting 52" springs in the front of your truck that generally means you're setting it up to flex. With the Virginia 4x4 kit you don't have the option of different front spring mounting points to dial the shackle angle in. Instead you would have to move the rear shackle hanger on the frame, not insurmountable, but a job none the less. So how exactly is that superior? Lets see some twisted up pics of your truck and how well it droops with that crappy shackle angle. Virginia 4x4's spring hangers do look extremely nice, as well as being well built, just not superior. DIY's stuff has been proven, for more info on Virginia 4x4 go to pirate4x4.com and do some searching in the Chevy section... Later, James

 

[akonitony]

Hey Private, you need to take it easy first of all. Second, I don't pimp out anything here. I mentioned Kert's products too in another thread, and if you want adjustability, that's the way to go. My wife would be the first one to tell you I would be screwed for weeks trying to decide which hole I want... no pun intended, but I didn't notice what I just wrote until after I wrote it.
Anyway, Kert is a very talented individual, his website is easy to order from, and his variety of parts is nothing short of amazing. I'm surprised if the guy ever sleeps. That being said, I almost bought the DIY kit, for the very reasons you mentioned. However, after doing a little research on the advantages of cutting steel with a waterjet rather than a plasma cutter, I thought that was one point in favor of the V'4x4 parts. He also gave me a military discount which I thought was very generous and honorable. When I received the parts, I was very impressed with the quality of construction, and the ease with which I could install them. Half the rivets to cut, no jacking the body up which is no easy task with all the stuff on the front of this truck, not to mention I am also a disabled vet, and a task that might take you an hour will usually take me all day. I also had seen many threads telling me DIY parts are the best, so I decided to give a little support for my choice of the spring conversion perches. All I said earlier was what I thought of the parts from the pics I was viewing. Matt was the one I quoted as saying the Caddy vs Chevy. Personally, I wouldn't want a Caddy since they are usually GMs test bed for new technology that adds problems. I will also say those pics do not do the actual parts justice. They are very heavy thick and stout. For the record, I will admit both sources have their strengths and weaknesses.
Anyway, you start out telling me I'm pimping for someone, then turn around and do the exact same thing. I am just sharing my thoughts about a product by which I was impressed. Compare the cost of a waterjet to a plasma cutter, and then tell me why you would want more HAZ in a steel part than there has to be from welding it together, then finally look at the stoutness of both, and you'll see why I made the choice I made. The interlocking of the parts using dove-tail cuts before they are welded also adds to their strength.
You need to chill out with coming here and acting like you know it all. I speak from experience of doing that myself more times than I care to remember. The more I've learned, the more I realize I don't know **** from shinola. There are a bunch of guys here who do know their stuff, and they don't mind at all sharing their wealth of knowledge. I know I'd be lost on my bigger trucks if I hadn't been given this website from a fellow I met during one of my recoveries on some axles I bought.
BTW, I never did thank him formally, so if you happen to be reading this Wreckerman893, thanks for the recommendation to check out this website. I gotta tell you all this is my favorite out of the 3 of which I'm a member. The people here are nothing short of phenomenal when it comes to engineering trucks that stun and amaze...
With that being said, James, if you want to pimp DIY4x parts, be my guest. I'm happy for you finding a supplier that can meet all of your needs. As for me, I just ordered a set of poly bushing, 6" shackle straps, and the 1/4" spacers needed for the narrower springs up front from Kert today as a matter of fact, so don't tell me I play favorites. I try and support everybody, but when there is a part that strikes me as superior in any way, I'm going to tell my friends here about it. I think if you compare the two parts we are talking about, you would have to admit the V'4x4 parts, while lacking adjustability, are much more stout than the DIY kit. Now if you have a rusty body mount that needs to be replaced anyway, and you are not looking for overkill in the stoutness department, the DIY kit is a better choice, will fix the body mount problem, and is more than strong enough to put on a professional's crawler.
Have a nice day.

 

[spink7124]

I hear what you are saying, and I realize how my post came across sounding. At least the problem here is actually having choices when it comes to choosing parts making it easier and easier to modify our trucks. I apologize, to each his own. I second the rivets, I am currently at 72 removed so far on my truck... Sorry to clutter up the post and lets get back to enjoying the best MV site on the net!

 

[musclecars664]

Ok, finally got some tires. they are 35x12.5 Micky Thompson MTZ's mounted on pro comp rock crawler wheels. there is no rubbing during normal driving but when it flexes out it does hit the back of the front fender a little so i need to cut those out. other then that it rides great, no road noise on the highway and i got an extra 5 MPH out of them!!!

 

[akonitony]

That is one sweet-looking CUCV! Makes me jones for getting mine done. I picked up the rear 63" springs from the junkyard a couple of weeks ago, but now I am working on dog pens at our new house in Florida, along with getting my deuces moved down there. Anyway, looks good, and gives me some intestinal fortitude to get back into the lift I am working on with my M1008. I think I will have the opposite problem with rubbing in the front of the front fender since my mod moved the axle forward about 2".

 

[simoncrk]

Looks Dang Good!!!!!

 

[gunner01]

now a word about the rest of your problems with lifting and larger tires on trucks. Not that I mind because I have been building high rollers since the 70`s. My claim to fames are a 1976 chevy K5 blazer we put a 453 T detroit diesel in bolted up to s stock 4 spd tranny with a 6 inch lift, air ride seats,and a gear vendor over drive. 2nd a 1979 Ford Bronco, this was my all time favorite truck slightly pumped up 400 motor, removed 4 spd and put and auto in its place, removed door handles used self grounding switches to activate automatic snurf bars to lower to allow access. These neede for a total of 28 inches of lift, (body lift 4 inches,suspension lift of 18 inches, tires remainder of the lift of 6 inches) New tires weighed in a 163 lbs without wheels. that increased weight at each corner put an undo amount of strain on the stock brakelines. you will need to lenghthen and reduce diameter of lines to brake properly beleive me do this before you have 20/20 hindsight. this is just one minor suggestion that always seems to never be addressed.

gunner out

 

[musclecars664]

I did get the extended stainless brake lines so i hope that wont be a problem. and the springs from tuff country moved the axle forward an inch just because the center pin was in a different position. the only issue im having now is knowing that i have to cut my fender wells to allow the axle to flex completely. im kinda worried that im gonna do it wrong and make it look bad. lol

 

[Cucvnut]

good looking tires !

 

[rjhiggins]

good looking ride, may i ask what size wheels you put on it? I am looking to put 17x9 wheels with 4.5 back spacing on mine.