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New to this M1009

James Suitcoat

New member
11
11
3
Location
Indiana
Been coming to this site for research a few years now and decided the price was right on a Blazer.

I have an 89 tbi (they call it a v10 instead of a K5) and now this big brother.

This will be a long haul project and I will keep coming back to the forums when I run into trouble.

IMG_4163.jpeg47CFD62E-E37B-44C2-AE8F-74A8E3E059D9.jpeg
 

dougco1

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
864
642
93
Location
Cooperstown NY
Been coming to this site for research a few years now and decided the price was right on a Blazer.

I have an 89 tbi (they call it a v10 instead of a K5) and now this big brother.

This will be a long haul project and I will keep coming back to the forums when I run into trouble.

View attachment 919384View attachment 919387
Welcome to the site:
Both your rides look great.
 

James Suitcoat

New member
11
11
3
Location
Indiana
I want to find the history of my truck and have seen a few posts about this but they are terribly old. I have the vin and a bumper number but do not know if that is original.

The last owner believed it spent most of its time in AZ before moving onto the midwest.
 
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James Suitcoat

New member
11
11
3
Location
Indiana
IMG_4314.jpegToday I swapped the sending unit in the back of the block under the air filter housing with a new one and still got the intermittent “red oil pressure light” on the dash - once the truck was warmed up (and only at idle)

Do I trust the light?

Well, this was the main reason it was sold.

If I speed up the idle it may go away, but it might leave me stranded if indeed I have low oil pressure.

The plan now is to put a mechanical oil gauge which I will tap in from the spare inlet (plug) on the bottom of the block near the oil filter and cooler lines.

I would like to also replace the oil pump/screen and inspect the bearing. Also replace the harmonic balancer even though that seems to be a 6.5 weakness not the 6.2.

my garage at home hates me.

I already changed the oil and filter after dumping 1/2 a bottle of seafoam in the crankcase. And changed the fuel filter with the OEM style one. I may do the screw on swap, but I might also do a sight glass style filter.
 
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adf5565

Well-known member
375
687
93
Location
Tioga, PA
Before you go through the trouble of installing another gauge I’d buy something like this to test while the vehicle is stationary. Especially if you swapped the sender and the light still comes on you may have motor wear issues that need to be resolved before you get too far into things.

I’d pull the sender off and hook this up and see what it shows.

 

James Suitcoat

New member
11
11
3
Location
Indiana
Before you go through the trouble of installing another gauge I’d buy something like this to test while the vehicle is stationary. Especially if you swapped the sender and the light still comes on you may have motor wear issues that need to be resolved before you get too far into things.

I’d pull the sender off and hook this up and see what it shows.

Thats a great idea.
 

nyoffroad

Well-known member
940
687
93
Location
Rochester NY
You already changed the sender, just pull it back out and with a few brass fittings and a TEE you can have both the light and gauge hooked up from the same port. Also what oil did you use? I've never used Sea Foam but that could've thinned out the oil some. If it is a little low on oil pressure I wouldn't hesitate to run straight 30W in it. That's not a cure for worn out parts but it can give you time to locate a replacement engine and rebuild that while still having the truck drivable.
 

James Suitcoat

New member
11
11
3
Location
Indiana
Been a while since I gave my new truck some love. I believe I have the oil pressure at a reliable spot. I have another long block on a stand in my garage. The weight and balance of a fully dressed long block does not go onto an engine stand easily - so i have donor parts or a donor engine (civi 6.2) that I can swap in if the oil pressure is not actually under control.

Anyways, I blew a tire on the shake down and it has sat since. The tires have 95% tread life but they are dry rotted. I worked on my civi blazer and am at a spot where I will need to start welding.

I recently came across used wheels and tires and it is a price I can afford with 90% tread life. My question is: do I need to worry about the front hub clearance, offset etc being different than a civi model k5?


tldr. Will aftermarket wheels fit?
 
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CARC686

Well-known member
273
484
63
Location
Las Cruces, New Mexico
Same offset as civilian K5. Rally sports and old school off-road wagon wheels fit. The ones with the triangle holes. Dunno why you have TP45 stenciled on your fenders, but I find 30 PSI makes a comfortable ride and 35 is good for highway miles.
 

James Suitcoat

New member
11
11
3
Location
Indiana
Same offset as civilian K5. Rally sports and old school off-road wagon wheels fit. The ones with the triangle holes. Dunno why you have TP45 stenciled on your fenders, but I find 30 PSI makes a comfortable ride and 35 is good for highway miles.
I have not changed it since the last owner put the stencil.

I am worried the front hub bore hole will not fit these wheels.
 

weaponoffreedom

New member
21
12
3
Location
NC, USA
Been a while since I gave my new truck some love. I believe I have the oil pressure at a reliable spot. I have another long block on a stand in my garage. The weight and balance of a fully dressed long block does not go onto an engine stand easily - so i have donor parts or a donor engine (civi 6.2) that I can swap in if the oil pressure is not actually under control.

Anyways, I blew a tire on the shake down and it has sat since. The tires have 95% tread life but they are dry rotted. I worked on my civi blazer and am at a spot where I will need to start welding.

I recently came across used wheels and tires and it is a price I can afford with 90% tread life. My question is: do I need to worry about the front hub clearance, offset etc being different than a civi model k5?


tldr. Will aftermarket wheels fit?
where is the oil sending unit? Mind taking a picture? Is it behind the air cleaner on the lower portion under the block. I thought that the flanged 1/2" threaded sending unit at the driver rear block was it, but to my surprise, coolant flowed out. Is it down low 1/4' inch thread?

I am trying to put me some gauges, figure the driver side front is good for coolant temp.

Thanks
 
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