TurboTim
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Im going to send my CTIS to get reprogrammed and a solenoid replaced. Does anyone know a good way to plug it so I can still drive it?
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Plugging CTIS off.
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welldigger
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If your wheel valves are working correctly it should be fine.
TurboTim
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When I remove the manifold there will be a huge air leak. There are 2 ports that feed it air. Think about it. These are what I need to plug.
How about disconnecting the hose from the stem elbow to the wheel valve and installing a 3/8 to 1/8 brass reducer and 1/8 milton valve stem in each wheel stem elbow and air up each tire just like the spare tire setup. Don't turn on the CTIS and your golden.
welldigger
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Someone correct me if I'm wrong but the wheel valves are supposed to hold air even if the system is disconnected. The way the system deflates the tires is the solenoid sends pulses of air causing the valves to open and close slowly deflating the tires. If you disconnect the ctis nothing should happen. It would be easy enough to test. Unhook the front and rear supply lines and see what happens. If your wheel valves are functioning correctly nothing should happen. Then just wrap some tape over the supply lines to keep crap out.
TurboTim
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You guys are correct but you are missing the whole point. How do you think the CTIS gets air? It gets it from the truck. There is an output that you guys are talking about but there is also the input from the trucks air that feeds CTIS. If I remove this there will be 2 hoses from truck going to nothing. I need this plugged. I dont know if they make caps for those press lock hoses.
welldigger
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Duh, sorry had my head in the sand there. Just put a ball valve on the supply line from the air tanks. If you can't get a push lock ball valve get 2 push lock to male thread fittings and a threaded ball valve.
I use SMC air valves, check valves and pilot operated check valves. While not having a CTIS on my 923, it would stand to reason that they have a pilot operated check to get rid of air. Any check valve worth having would not stay open without something causing it to stay open so the idea that a pulsed air should do it, seems rather odd. They are all push lock, so should work fine with your tubing (without paint). If you can't find them by googling "pilot operated check" let me know and I'll get a part number. So by applying pressure to the control side of the valve, it would open the main flow (letting air out) and without it, it simply functions as a check/needle valve. They also have an adjustment for the needle valve to set flow rate, but full open is your most likely setting.
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Take a look at the pages 751 and 752 of TM9-2320-386-24-1-2, which can be found in the TM section of this site. It looks to me like both pipes that go to the CTIS manifold are tee'd together and go to the inside tank near the middle of the tank. There is a tee there also, and the pipe going toward the front of the truck is for the CTIS. The pipe going to the rear is the rest of the truck. Seems to me if you disconnect the forward pipe and plug the hole in the tee, you've isolated the entire CTIS from the rest of the truck. Put some tape over the disconnected pipes and you're good to go.
Hopefully these are not plastic piping or things might get slightly interesting finding fittings, but that location seems to be the best for making your temporary "fix"
Good luck!
Hopefully these are not plastic piping or things might get slightly interesting finding fittings, but that location seems to be the best for making your temporary "fix"
Good luck!
welldigger
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It is nylon dot air brake line. They used push lock fittings on the a3. The threads in the tee are standard npt threads though. I can't remember if a standard pipe plug would work or if it needs a flare plug. Either should be easy to find at your favorite auto parts store or hardware store.