Problem Starting my M1009

[1984M1009]

When I first got my M1009 it started super fast everytime.


Later I had a problem with it not wanting to crank it would act like the battery was dead but other times it would be fine. Like you could run into a gas station come out and it would not do anything or crank super slow. but other time it was fine.

I found the Cable going to the starter the ring terminal was breaking and not making a good connection. I replaced that it seemed like it was fine for a week then it started doing it again.

It has a brand new starter BTW

not sure how old the batteries are but it will start fine after sitting for a week and then not want to start later the same day

Need Help

Thanks in advance

 

[Cucvnut]

wont wont start when hot you mean ?

 

[yamabro]

Have you checked the ground

 

[1984M1009]

wont wont start when hot you mean ?

I guess but it has nothing to do with the motor it just wont crank sometimes.


As far as the grounds I checked the one on the frame and the one at the back of the intake are there any others. I should check

 

[yamabro]

If you traced them out then thats probably it. Did they look good, no corrosion?

 

[mistaken1]

Did you do the doghead starter relay modification?

Are the batteries fully charged and load tested?

Did you clean and tighten all connections in the starting circuit including the battery connections?

Others have found a bad battery cable as the source of their starting woes.

 

[1984M1009]

I was reading about the dog head Relay modification but wasnt sure if that would solve the problem

I need to check the batteries but I think they are okay

Connections all seem ggod but I will double check them

 

[stampy]

Clean ALL of your battery connections and lube with dielectric grease. Clean all frame connections to ground and lube with dielectric grease. Same for the starter. When I say clean I mean sand or file down till the metal shines. If the starter doesn't spin the engine over fast enough it won't start easily, so excellent electrical connections and charged batteries with little voltage drop when starting are a must.

 

[1984M1009]

Well went to start it today and it cranked and then the batteries seemed like they went dead.

So I tried jump starting it off the Duramax didn't work. Pulled the Optimas out of the duramax and stuck them in the M1009 still wouldn't start.

I messed with some other stuff and pulled the plug off the starter relay tried jumping starter bumped for a second then I blew a Fuse.

I am glad this thing is not my DD because I cant seem to keep it running for more than a week at a time.

Its okay though it takes time to fix 25 years of abuse and neglect.

Anyways my plan is to bring the battery charger home from work charge the batteries individually. Do the Dog head Relay mod and hope that fixes it.

 

[Stratoghost]

Your problem seems a lot like mine. It will turn over and even act like it will start then nothing. All power shuts off. Not even the heater fans or lights will come on. The glow plug control box bypass switch I installed will light up the wait light.

I did the Doghead relay mod, bypassed the glowplug control box with a heavy duty push button switch, replaced the starter, found a couple loose grounds on the firewall and tightened them. I have also put di-electric grease on the battery terminals. Both batteries are about a year old. I will be testing them this week.

I decided yesterday to look again for the loose connection after it did the same thing again; starting then immediately dying. I turned the fan switch on to full so that while I was jiggling lines I might hear it turn on and find the loose or bad wire. As soon as I popped the hood the power came back on. I was able to start it and move it so that I could get my lawnmower out of my garage.

I don't trust the thing to drive any more. A few weeks ago I was driving it home, turned a corner and it died. After that I parked it until I can fix it.

It seems to me that there must be a single line that keeps the truck turned on that is loose. I am assuming it must be one connected to the steering column and the ignition switch. I replaced the ignition switch (and door locks) last year as I did not know that you could get keys for my m1009. Maybe something came loose there.

*If anyone knows what single wire would cause almost all power to not work, I would appreciate it if they would point it out.

Good luck solving your problem. Please detail what you did to get yours to work when you do. I will to the same.

 

[redline300]

I am having the SAME issue with my 1985 M1009. I thought it was the alternator but had that tested and found it was fine. Something seems to be draining the 2 brand new batteries i just bought 3 weeks ago. It ran wonderfully then wouldn't start a week ago until i had a friend jump me for 30 minutes!

 

[mogger62]

Suggest replacing the Battery Lead connection that runs between the two batteries. Replace the Wire with the thickest wire you can find, at least .75" to 1" diameter. As I had the same problem until a friend helped diagnose and replace this wire. Now the problem is solved; the same problem you described. Easy cheap repair.

 

[Barrman]

The best fix is to remove all the wiring connections, clean them and put the back together tight. However, if in a hurry and just wanting to get it started. Turn on the headlights when eveything seems to go dead. (Don't use the ignition because the glow plug system will still be trying to work and could kill itself if left on for a long time. The TM says no longer than 2 minutes) The lights will be little orange glows. Start moving wires and such until the lights get bright. What ever your hand is on should be what gets tightened at the very least and preferrably taken apart to be cleaned.

If you have time, do this test in the dark with no lights. The spark will tell you exactly where the problem is.

 

[Warthog]

The spark will tell you exactly where the problem is.

Ohhhh............I like sparks.................

 

[Barrman]

Yeah yeah. The bigger the load, the bigger the spark when contact is made. I figured us telling people to take the connections apart, clean them and make sure they are tight keeps falling on deaf ears. So why not pull out another old low tech high entertainment value test?

 

[mistaken1]

Yeah yeah. The bigger the load, the bigger the spark when contact is made. I figured us telling people to take the connections apart, clean them and make sure they are tight keeps falling on deaf ears. So why not pull out another old low tech high entertainment value test?

LOL

 

[1984M1009]

Well I found out the brand new junk chinese starter cable already took a dump.

It still won't start surely there must be more fuses then the ones in the fuse block under the dash? I checked all those and they were all good

 

[1984M1009]

I have no +24v power to the starter relay.

Where are the fusible links on the firewall I think I blew one out screwing around last week

 

[1984M1009]

Well I found the 4 24 volt fusible links I have not figured out which is for what. I looked at the starting wiring diagram and it said a red wire. That helps since all four are red.

They are however 3 different gauges of wire anybody know which would send power to the starter relay and the voltmeter.

 

[Warthog]

Well I found the 4 24 volt fusible links I have not figured out which is for what. I looked at the starting wiring diagram and it said a red wire. That helps since all four are red.

They are however 3 different gauges of wire anybody know which would send power to the starter relay and the voltmeter.

I know we keep harping about reading the Tech Manuals but no one seems to read the part about how to read the wiring diagrams. Very important information.

You need to read the first few page of the troubleshooting section of the -20 or -34 tech manuals. It explains how to read the diagrams and what the wire labels and sizes are.

You are looking for the red 16 gauge fusibe link. The fusible links will have the black plactic barrel connectors.

Here is a list of all the wires connected to the 24v Positive Terminal block and the wire lables and associated diagrams. (-34 manual)


32 red -1 – Battery 2 Positive terminal – diagram E-1 - Gauge 2 stranded wire
32 red – 1 – starter solenoid - diagram E-1 - Gauge 2 stranded wire
32 red -1 – Battery 2 Positive terminal – diagram E-9 Gauge 2 standed wire (repeat from E-1)

3 blue – 2A – Glow Plug resistor – diagram E-7 – Gauge 12 fusible link
3 blue – 2L – Gen2 24v output - diagram E-9 Gauge 12 fusible link

1 red – 2Z – starter relay - diagram E-1 - Gauge 16 fusible link

.5 orange-101A – diagnostic system - diagram E-11 Gauge 20 fusible link (*** MISLABLED IN THE DIAGRAMS ***)
.5 orange-2K – Gen2 excitor – diagram E-9 Gauge 20 fusible link