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quick question on Pass side alternator wiring VIDEO

parlusk

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quick question on Pass side alternator wiring VIDEO (FIXED)

just a quick ? about where two wires go, video below. The wire coming form the bat. side of the alternator and the 12v hot wire coming from the plug, they will run to the pos. side of the bus bar correct? when i bought this vehicle the pass. side alternator was removed, and those two wires were hooked into the Neg. side of the bus bar.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=68o52yj4AHg
 
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Warthog

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Those fusible links are indeed fired. They do go to the top Positive Terminal Block.

The other two links are in the correct spot. Sometimes you have to look at all the diagrams to find all the links. The links and locations are listed in the Fusible link sticky.
 

319

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That's a good video showing "abnormal" fusible links. How about including it in the fusible link sticky?
 

parlusk

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i replaced the links and started her up. the back battery is still not charging but the alt is putting out 14.xx volts checking the back studs with a meter. gen 2 light isn't working, but it bad be due to a old instrument panel. Also, in the exciter wire i am not getting 12 volt on the ign "brown wire" (with the ign on) but iam getting 24v on the red "hot" wire. not sure is that is supposed to be 24 volts. I will try to shoot a video today to make it much easier to see and help other out.
 

Warthog

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Your alternator is NOT working. You are just reading the voltage from GEN1.

No need for a video. We have covered this hundreds of times. The stickies cover this in detail.

With the 12v/24v system you have to understand how the alternators are tied together.

The drivers side alternator feeds the front battery and outputs 12v to the 12v diamond shaped 12v bus bar. It charges the front battery via the 12v bus bar.

The passeneger side alternator is also a 12v unit BUT combines the 12v output from the driver side with its own 12v and the total is 24v on the output.

The passenger side alternator MUST be an isolated ground unit or this setup will not work and fireworks will fly.

For the passenger side you will have the following:

a - 2 pin exciter wire. Red will be 24v and hot at all times. The brown wire will be 24v only when the key is on.
b - the large solid red wire connects to the output terminal and feeds 24v to the 24 bus bar (this is the fusible link you just replaced)
c - small orange wire is for the STE/ICE diagnostic system and is connected to the output terminal.
d - HERE IS THE MAJOR PART - the large red wire with white strip is coneccted to the "ground" lug of the alternator. It is feeding 12v from the diaoind shaped 12v bus bar into the alternator so it can combine to make 24v.
e - in order for the exciter system to work, the GEN2 light must be working, the GEN2 relay must be working, the 24v fuse must be working, the firewall plug must be conducting current, etc....

All the pieces have to be in place and be fuctioning properly for the system to work.
 
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Warthog

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Just asking a question. Not trying to be a smartazz.

How can you shoot a video to help others out when you don't understand the system yourself? The diagrams are much easier to follow than just a bunch of dirty wires.
 
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319

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I was thinking about for those who can't visualize a fusible link, good or bad, from a schematic.
 

doghead

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One concern I have is that the site has no control of his YT videos and therefore these threads can all be useless in a blink of an eye.

Please stop posting in this manor.

Also, You have repeatedly failed to use capitalization. This is a site requirement. My thinking here is, if you can operate a video camera, you can capitalize.

We want to help you, but we also manage the site with the future in mind. The site is a eternal resource, not just a blog.
 

doghead

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I was thinking about for those who can't visualize a fusible link, good or bad, from a schematic.
For those that can't visualize, there is Google Image search!
 
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Warthog

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Or the "Fusible Link -101" stickie. Shows what they are and how to fix them.

I do need to add some picture of burn links. I have not had any burn so I will have to manually fry a couple.
 

parlusk

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With that being said. I will try to explain what happened through text rather then with a video. I replaced the fusible link going from the red white strip wire to the diamond bus bar with an inline fuse for now. I figured it was fired for a reason and it is easier to replace fuses rather than wires. The brown wire has 24v when the ign is on and the red wire has 24v all the time. the gen two light is working. When I start the vehicle it either blows the fuse or i hear what i think a is a relay clicking and the entire truck shuts down and is dead for several seconds then i hear a click again and the power comes back on.
 

Warthog

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You would have to install a 100+ amp fuse to replace a fusible link. Read up on fusible links. They are installed for a purpose. They are not to be replaced with a fuse.

Did you repair the blue fusible link on the 24v bus bar? It is the output line for GEN2

You need to check all the power connections and fusible links. The clicking you are hearing is more than likely the glowplug relay energizing. I would say there is bad connection or a bad link that is losing connection when the relay energizes and shuts down the power to the injector pump.
 
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Warthog

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You have been assuming all the wiring is in good shape and where it belongs. You video shows otherwise as the wires where burnt and installed in the wrongs place. Makes me wonder many other wires are in the wrong place?
 

parlusk

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I have when through the fusible link sticky and i am pretty sure they are all where they are supposed to be. I will replace the fuse with a link when i get home. the odd thing is if the fuse blows then the engine with shut off but if it doesn't blow then the engine will continue to run. I put a 50 am fuse in hoping I could find the problem but I guess not.
 

parlusk

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Well i replaced all both gen bulbs, cleaned all electrical connections, pulled the relays and clean those contacts, replaced the two fusible links, removed the orange wire from the gen 2 bat post, for some reason the wires were taped together and looked as if it were only wire. Now both light come on then turn off once the engine is running, volt meter in the green, front battery is charging around 14.50 back is 13.40( not bad for a alternator that has been sitting for over 6 years. So I guess it is fixed. The only bad thing about doing everything at once is it is impossible to tell what fixed the problem.
 
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