Started the bobb job

[TJP]

I have a question about trearing down the rear tandem axles, to remove the dog bones do you just use a BFH or is there a special tool to separate them from the axle mount. I would like to not damage the dog bones. The other question is there a preferred back diff/axle to use for the bobber, or do both axles get the same wear and tear.

I will post some pics as I get a little further along.

THanks
Tim

 

[gimpyrobb]

Use some wood as a buffer and slam a wood splitter wedge in there with a sledge hammer. They pop out after a couple hits.

 

[TJP]

Thanks I will give it a try, to day after work:

 

[doghead]

Or, try hitting the outer diameter of the"housing" that the tapered shaft is in. The shock should pop it out of the taper fit.

Here's a video of the concept.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vpAwM2xH-IU

 

[TJP]

Doghead thanks for the video.

Do you know anything about the rear diff/axles if one is better than the to use.

 

[doghead]

I see no reason one would be better to re-use, than the other.

 

[197thhhc]

Pick the axle with the thickest brake shoes. Thats what I do when we bob one.

 

[KsM715]

I removed the whole bogey set-up from under mine then just unbolted the axle, rather than messing with the dogbones. Made it easier to just roll the whole thing out from under the truck and work on tearing it down without being under the truck pounding on things.

 

[wreckerman893]

I removed the whole bogey set-up from under mine then just unbolted the axle, rather than messing with the dogbones. Made it easier to just roll the whole thing out from under the truck and work on tearing it down without being under the truck pounding on things.

On my bobber we removed the bed. I then took a big angle grinder with a thin cutting wheel on it and lopped off the rivet heads. Heat the metal around the rivet heads with the blue flame speed wrench and knock the rivets out with a punch and a BFH. For safety clamp the punch into a set of vise grips to avoid those pesky broken fingers. Be sure you disconnect all the brake lines before you try to drop it out.

Hook the frame to a heavy lifting device (tractor front end loader, backhoe, overhead crane, etc.) and pick up on the frame.......with a little prying and hammering the whole nine yards will fall off the frame.

Roll it out and then you can have your way with it with some air tools.....makes it easy to remove the axles, springs, dogbones, etc.

 

[Tinwoodsman]

What Wreckerman said.

 

[RedbeardTheZombieHunter]

If you're gonna use the M105 trailer sub-frame method, removing the bogie plates from the castings and leaving them on the truck frame rails makes lining up and squaring the sub-frame a bit easier. Sinse you've already removed them, you can re-locate them and bolt them on to line up other parts like a different bed or other hardware.

 

[TJP]

I have some pics to show the project progress. The trailer is a M105A3.

 

[TJP]

• I don't know if anyone has used this method to remove rivets but if not it works great . I call it the rotor hammer technique. It will pop the rivets right out.

 

[Seth_O]

Looks good so far. I found the easiest way to remove the rivets was an acetylane torch, blew them right out nice and clean and only took a few seconds each.

Not sure what your final plans are, but I recommend thinking about moving the bed back a bit from the cab. I wish I would have - that allows room for the spare in there, maybe a toolbox, you could put the batteries up there or maybe an extra fuel tank. Lots of options and the extra foot or two of length will go largely unnoticed. Once you cut the frame though - it's never going to get any longer.....

 

[RedbeardTheZombieHunter]

Hey TJP, Looks like you got a pretty good start and it's looking good so far. One thing you might wanna seriously consider is some spacers between the 105 bed and the truck frame. By setting it up off the frame by 6 or 8 inches, you'll give yourself room to service the in-tank fuel pump without having to drop the tank or lift the bed. Also, if you leave yourself about 14 or 15 inches between the bed and cab, you'll have a nice place to hang a set of 5-gallon jerry can holders. Mark at 100Dollarman did several of them like that and it gives you some flexability to mount some other things to the front of the bed too.

 

[TJP]

RedbeardTheZombieHunter;

Do you know what material to use to lift it 6 inches. What I am asking is there a certain type of
material that is more safe than others, medial tubing, spacers, bushings ?

 

[plym49]

RedbeardTheZombieHunter;

Do you know what material to use to lift it 6 inches. What I am asking is there a certain type of
material that is more safe than others, medial tubing, spacers, bushings ?

A 6x6 from your local saw mill?

 

[spicergear]

Yeah, cut the hole tandem section off then unbolt one and roll it back under. No sense messing with the bogies whatsoever.

 

[RedbeardTheZombieHunter]

RedbeardTheZombieHunter;

Do you know what material to use to lift it 6 inches. What I am asking is there a certain type of
material that is more safe than others, medial tubing, spacers, bushings ?

A couple lengths of 6"X2" steel tube welded to the bottom of the bed with the mounting angles welded to them works well, and supports the weight as long as you use anything between 1/8" to 1/4" wall thickness. Don't forget to trim and put the wood strips from the original bed between the frame and bed risers to soak up the vibration noise, and mount solid in the rear of the bed and spring mount in the front of the bed to allow for the frame articulation. That'll help keep all 4 tires on the ground. I've seen some bobbers spin a tire or two on uneven ground because the bed was mounted solid at all 4 corners and made the frame too rigid. Flexability is your friend!

 

[hornetfan]

bobbed rear bed spacing

TJP,

If 6" spacing is what you want then 6"x2"x .125-.188" wall structural tubing (ASTM A500 grade "A") should be fine. Personally I would match the spacing of the original bed but I've never bobbed a deuce (yet) so others opinions are likely more valid than mine. Make sure to re-use the hardwood spacer strips from the original bed, too.

Softwood lumber of any description is a prescription for disaster. It will rot in a very short time exposed to the road.

I second the suggestion to spring mount the front of the bed as was done with the original 6x6 bed -- just re-use the original spring mounts. The frame articulates more than most folks realize. I suppose it is obvious but I would also re-use the original angle mounting brackets from the original bed. I am planning to leave room between cab and rear bed for a spare and yet-to-be-determined 'stuff'. I'm not sure where that will leave the wheelbase. I am hoping to end up with a 136"+/- wheelbase with the rear axle centered in the rear bed wheelwell.

'nuff said.