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Starter wont lines up to flexplate

detroitdiesel4x4

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Piney Hicks N.J
My starter has been grinding every now and then, so I used to use a breaker bar to move the crank over enough to hit some "fresh" teeth and get it running. Naturally it got worse and worse to the point there the engine would only turn over about 1/4 crank before I had to rotate it again. I assumed my flex plate teeth were probably all chewed up and missing, and the problem started in one spot and just got worse and worse as the starter and the flex plate wore out. Much to my surprise, I pulled the cover off the bellhousing and found no missing teeth, and the flex plate was still tight and in place wich I thought might have been the cause of all this. You can see on the flexplate teeth, where only the ends of them have any wear on them, on the engine side. On the trans side of the teeth, they look almost un-touched since when it was replaced. It looks like the starter was only grabbing the first 1/8 of the flex plate. I checked to see if the bracked was still on the starter, wich it was, but upon closer inspection I noticed the bolt wasn't on it :whistle: so I guess it wasn't doing any good. So what do you think? Bad shimming or bad bendix?
 

Matt65

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Alabama
Inspect your Flex Plate by removing the trans cover and rotate the engine over with a pull handle or large ratchet. Use the Harmonic Balancer Bolt to roll it over. If the Plate is damaged replace. You can get them for $28 here: http://www.saturnsurplus.com/cucv/cucv.htm If its not damaged, inspect the starter gear, replace if damaged. These starters are easily and inexpensively rebuilt using the TMs and rebuild kits. My advice before you get near the electrical connections on the starter: disconnect both neg terminals from the batteries. Remove the starter from the truck if you have to for inspection. You can jump the solenoid and extend the starter gear manually on the truck (without the starter spinning) for inspection, but If you have never done this it will be easier/safer for you to take it off. Do not attempt until you understand starter function. If starter gear and Flexplate good I would remove, and reinstall the starter using TM sequence. Use new starter bolts, confirm clearance is correct, use correct torque. Ensure support brace is istalled, and correct brace for starter type. There is one for Direct Drive, and Gear Reduction.




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Hasdrubal

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Vancouver BC
When my starter started grinding the flexplate teeth, it turned out to be worn bushings in the starter allowing the armature shaft to drop down on the end, changing the bendix engagement angle. Does your starter turn over slowly? Might be rebuild time.
 

Easypatriot

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Sacramento
Is there a source out there for gear-reduction brackets? In changing the solenoid in my starter after a pre-doghead misshap (doghead mod now done) I found what appears to be a direct drive bracket (too short) still bolted to the truck. I am searching, but this seemed a relevant place to ask.
 

rchalmers3

Half a mile from the Broad River
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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Irmo, South Carolina
Not saying this is your problem, but I have found more than one distorted (dished) flex plate that while it was properly secured to the crank, would not line up to the depth of the starter gear when the gear was spun out into operating mode. I have personally damaged a flex plate (bent it the other way) by drawing in the transmission using the mounting bolts during install before lining the converter studs to the holes..... it bends the flex plate pretty easily. :?

Another odd ball discovery is that not all starters are made equal and the engagement depths can vary.

I suggest you engage the starter on the bench and measure from the vertical mounting face of the starter cone to the center of the gear. Then measure your ring gear from the face of the opening in the same manner to see if you can deduce a possible mismatch.

Rick
 

Warthog

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