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Stuck Winch Shear Pin and Gasket Issue
- Thread starter UPFINN
- Start date
UPFINN
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I have the TM for taking apart the winch but didn't find one for the shaft. Got it now though.
UPFINN
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I'm actually thinking of using a yoke puller:
http://www.gwtoolco.com/HL/SP-450HL.JPG
Hopefully it won't bust the u-joint/yoke ears off.
gimpyrobb
dumpsterlandingfromorbit!
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That looks like it should work, provided what you stated doesn't happen. 
UPFINN
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Today I installed all the coolant hoses and got the truck running.
I hooked up the winch to a large stump and started to pull after heating the coupler with a torch, spraying with PB blaster, and hammering. The truck was on flat ground with slippery grass. I applied the brakes enough to get a lot of tension in the cable, but I did not brake hard enough to get the truck dragging on locked wheels, but it was close. At that point I was hearing a popping noise and noticed the shear pin was now inside the coupler, and not visible through the hole. It is moving now, but just with great force. I don't know what the popping noise was but I think it was the coupler moving.
Should I just lock up all the wheels and keep pulling to free up the yoke coupler some more? I am worried about overloading the winch. Is it safe to drag on locked wheels over grass?
This Sunday I have a job to skid small white cedar stumps out of the woods. Most of the stumps were pulled by hand with a come-along ratchet winch, and are under 12 inches diameter. There are also two large stumps still in the ground. The roots of both stumps have been cut. The trees were triple trunked and around 16 inches diameter. I can pivot one stump partly out of the ground with a cheap 2 to 4 ton come along before it is too hard to pull anymore. The second large stump I could not budge with the come along but can feel it vibrate when kicked.
My options right now include:
1) Leave it alone and just go to the jobsite on Sunday. Start by dragging the smallest stumps first and pull the largest last. I would of course bring a large pipe wrench, punch, hammer, torch, and pb blaster along with more shear pins if the coupler began to slip so much as to be unusable for winching. By then maybe I could turn it with the pipe wrench and line up the holes? If I have to use the engine to line up the holes, it would be hard because the shaft spins pretty fast.
2) Attach winch to stump at home and lock the brakes. Keep pulling until it slips some more.
3) Renting a yoke or bearing puller tomorrow, disconnect the pto drive shaft, and use the puller or a crow bar to pull the yoke coupler off the shaft.
I hooked up the winch to a large stump and started to pull after heating the coupler with a torch, spraying with PB blaster, and hammering. The truck was on flat ground with slippery grass. I applied the brakes enough to get a lot of tension in the cable, but I did not brake hard enough to get the truck dragging on locked wheels, but it was close. At that point I was hearing a popping noise and noticed the shear pin was now inside the coupler, and not visible through the hole. It is moving now, but just with great force. I don't know what the popping noise was but I think it was the coupler moving.
Should I just lock up all the wheels and keep pulling to free up the yoke coupler some more? I am worried about overloading the winch. Is it safe to drag on locked wheels over grass?
This Sunday I have a job to skid small white cedar stumps out of the woods. Most of the stumps were pulled by hand with a come-along ratchet winch, and are under 12 inches diameter. There are also two large stumps still in the ground. The roots of both stumps have been cut. The trees were triple trunked and around 16 inches diameter. I can pivot one stump partly out of the ground with a cheap 2 to 4 ton come along before it is too hard to pull anymore. The second large stump I could not budge with the come along but can feel it vibrate when kicked.
My options right now include:
1) Leave it alone and just go to the jobsite on Sunday. Start by dragging the smallest stumps first and pull the largest last. I would of course bring a large pipe wrench, punch, hammer, torch, and pb blaster along with more shear pins if the coupler began to slip so much as to be unusable for winching. By then maybe I could turn it with the pipe wrench and line up the holes? If I have to use the engine to line up the holes, it would be hard because the shaft spins pretty fast.
2) Attach winch to stump at home and lock the brakes. Keep pulling until it slips some more.
3) Renting a yoke or bearing puller tomorrow, disconnect the pto drive shaft, and use the puller or a crow bar to pull the yoke coupler off the shaft.
UPFINN
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- Ishpeming Michigan
Well if it is galling, at least I can continue using it. If that is the case though, I doubt a puller would remove it?
I was told by a friend to just grind off the yoke coupler and replace with a new one. Looks to be a 1310 u-joint. Just have to find one with a yoke coupler the right length with a shear pin hole.
To replace the input shaft it appears it will require winch disassembly and removal of worm gear.
gimpyrobb
dumpsterlandingfromorbit!
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UPFINN
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Now I just need to find some leads on the yoke coupling. All I know it is a 1310 and when I search that I only get results for the cross journal bearing.
I might not need to replace this stuff but I need to prepare for the worst.
I might not need to replace this stuff but I need to prepare for the worst.
gimpyrobb
dumpsterlandingfromorbit!
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I bet if you ask Steve(the seller in my prior post) he might know where to find one.
UPFINN
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I got the shaft and u-joint removed. Also got the yoke coupler out around a quarter inch with a chisel and was even able to rotate it somewhat, so it is moving. Going to go to town to get a puller and try finding a new journal cross bearing as it looks a bit rough. The threads on the straps that hold the shaft yoke to the journal cross are pretty buggered. Going to try finding new replacements or re-thread them.
UPFINN
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Success! Yoke coupler is removed! I rented a two arm gear puller but used the bar the arms attach through and stuck it through the yoke eyes. Heated the coupler with two propane torches and the puller took it right off. The coupler and shaft are pretty scraped up and it appears part of the shear pin crumbled and got caught between the shaft and coupler.
My replacement shear pin is 3/8 instead of 5/16. I think it is from a 5 ton. I will order some proper shear pins but for now I will just get a 5/16 brass bolt. Research shows a brass bolt will break at around the same force as the standard pins.
My replacement shear pin is 3/8 instead of 5/16. I think it is from a 5 ton. I will order some proper shear pins but for now I will just get a 5/16 brass bolt. Research shows a brass bolt will break at around the same force as the standard pins.