jasonjc
Well-known member
- 5,326
- 289
- 83
- Location
- Gravette Ar.
Why not get a bigger eng air compressor? That would seem to be easier to me.
Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!
That would certainly get the most air for time (and possibly money), however, the only information on upgrading the stock engine mounted air compressor that I could find is this thread:Why not get a bigger eng air compressor? That would seem to be easier to me.
Here's da poop on this puppy.
NSN 2530-00-863-3155 Air compressor 7.250 cfm per minute
Midland Brake P/N N5408-A
Haldex Brake Products P/N N-7502-E
Bendix Corp. P/N TU-FL)400
Well, I've got some more info. That Midland part number that terrynash gave us was an OEM part number. The Midland part number for aftermarket air compressor (same unit) is KN7010X. I got all this info from Larry at Bendix (he's part of their tech team, and was really helpful). Anyway, he told me that Bendix make an air compressor that would bolt right up and puts out 13.5cfm! Here's a link to some more info about that compressor (Tu-Flo 550). Larry told me that the part number we need is: 06205. Haven't checked prices yet.
But said "Tu-Flo 550" or "Tu-Flo 750" installation was never attempted and unless it's basically a bolt on upgrade (which I can't tell if it really is or isn't), it's not something I want to get into.Just talked to someone else that suggested a Tu-Flo 750 unit might also fit, and those put out 16.5cfm. Will post back when I find out for sure. Going to be expensive in either case. I've been told that remanufactured units cost over $1000 (without a core to exchange).
Here is what peashooter did:As far as getting a larger air-compressor "Peashooter" and I think "Jeepsinker" also added one to their trucks and I believe they work fine. PM him and see what he did.
True true. My original air compressor seemed to make a lot of noise and might have been contributing to the large quantity of blow by out the "slobber tube" (it puffed like a train). I purchased a used one with ~1400 miles on it from forum member red. It's a bit quieter and the "puffing" out the slobber tube is reduced.Another thought is that as these pumps wear out they make less air. I rebuild might be all you need.
Well, I feel like my air compressor runs too much. I don't know what the duty cycle of the stock Multifuel air compressor is, but according to the "Service Data" manual for the Tru-Flo 550, it seems like most "Medium Duty" Bendix air compressors are rated for 25% Duty Cycle.I really don't understand, other than just wanting to do it, why you would add air compressors? You have an air compressor that doesn't run full time because it reaches the full pressure requirement of the available storage area. If you increase the storage capacity you will use the existing pump (seriously easy) and make more CFM available when you need it because of increased storage. Seems like a LOT of unnecessary work, that will have moderate, if that success. Your truck, do what you want, but extra tanks will do EVERYTHING you are trying to do at 1 / 100th of the complexity.
Not if you put a pressure protection valve in between, as I stated earlier.On the FD we had air hooked to the truck with an auto disconnect. As soon as you hit the starter the hose would shoot off.
If you add two or three tanks it will take 2-3 times longer to fill.
That's interesting, I've not heard about any such quick release or auto disconnects. I suppose the emergency side ball valve would have to be modified so it just doesn't dump the air. My M105A2 trailer is older with only 1 (service) air line.On the FD we had air hooked to the truck with an auto disconnect. As soon as you hit the starter the hose would shoot off.
If you add two or three tanks it will take 2-3 times longer to fill.
Certainly a great idea. Where would you recommend plumbing in the additional tank? So this would mean that the only "usable" air from the supplemental tank would be from <cutoff_point> to 120 PSI?Not if you put a pressure protection valve in between, as I stated earlier.
You can also dedicate that air-tank to what ever you want to use it's air for. Need air for your air-horns ? Get a separate tank and a protection valve and your good to go. Most all trucks and buses use dedicated tanks for the air-bags and auxiliary systems like the bus doors and wipers. The way I mounted my last tank it is dedicated to the trailer air-system (brakes) and external hoses for shop tools.The way I was talking about, the aux tanks wouldn't get filled with air till the original "main tanks" were full(or at whatever pressure you want). That way, you don't have to let your truck sit longer to make air pressure(with additional air tank volume).
Mr. Rustystud, thank you. I hadn't put these two suggestions from Sparkyz911 & Gimpy together yet. I'm a little slow I guess!You can also dedicate that air-tank to what ever you want to use it's air for. Need air for your air-horns ? Get a separate tank and a protection valve and your good to go. Most all trucks and buses use dedicated tanks for the air-bags and auxiliary systems like the bus doors and wipers. The way I mounted my last tank it is dedicated to the trailer air-system (brakes) and external hoses for shop tools.
When you send me the kit, I will install it!Hydraulic
Power
Steering
I've removed one of these breakers. It appears to be a Cooper Bussmann "Short Stop" Type 1 auto reset 24V 30A circuit breaker.Thanks for the good pictures! It looks like you have breakers that you can use instead of fuses.
I removed the manifold and inspected all sides of the fittings towards the air compressors. I didn't see any holes.Also, the fittings on the manifold from the compressors look suspiciously long, maybe check valves? If they are, look for a tiny hole on the compressor side that may be used to unload the compressors after shut down. I'm not a big fan of that simple style unloader, as it constantly wastes a small amount of air, but it's cheap and works.