• Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!

  • Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.

Trailer Wiring adapter for CUCV...

DrJekl

Member
268
1
18
Location
Clarksville, TN
It is easier to just tap into the haness behind the bumper. Takes about 10 minutes, stays in place so it won't get lost, and runs about $5. If I remember correctly, the wires were the same color in the CUCV harness (green, yellow, brown).

Or you can buy a cheap flat 4, and a complete 3-pin weatherpack connector (1 male end, 1 female end) and build your own adapter that will plug in right where the military trailer plug connects to the wiring harness. You can switch between military and civilian wiring in about 30 seconds.
 

DrJekl

Member
268
1
18
Location
Clarksville, TN
You can tap into the three wires for your lights under the box on the road side of the front of the trailer and run the four pin pack into your military harness. I got rid of my military style cable on the M101 and just tapped in with the 4 pin connector using three ends from the cable I pulled off.

I just re-did all the lights on my M101A2 trailer with the civi style lights. I did so because I wanted to be able to lend the trailer to friends and not have to worry about them trying to wire in some temporary lights. Anyhow I went ahead and left all my military trailer lights on my M1009 but I also went ahead and got one of those quick plugs that has been talked about earlier from NAPA. I plugged it into the driver's side and all the running lights work, the driver's side turn signal and brake light. Nothing else does though!

So how are you guys wiring that jumper? Just a wire from the passenger side and into the wire over on the trailer plug? I'm tempted to take the thing back as much as it cost me ($16). Just use a universal mount. :x
 

top_prop

Member
243
8
18
Location
Suffolk, VA
hooyah driver... thanks for your posts. I just put in a 't' connector and only have the brake/turn of for the side i connect it too... so i too will tap the opposite turn/brake and run it to my seven pin... I also pulled an 12ga from the 12v bus block to the aux, and wired in an electric brake controller....

but thanks again!
 

top_prop

Member
243
8
18
Location
Suffolk, VA
The "T" connectors I got from NAPA didnt look anything like what was under my truck. Looks like I'll be splicing some wires tonight after work.
You need to buy the one for the 83... I think my kit said it was for 83 to 67...

anyways, the problem is that the CUCV's don't have the other sides turn/brake where you can plug it in. So if you did use the right t conector you'd still have to splice into the other side's turn/brake and run it to your trailer connector (thats what I did).

looking back on the entire thing I didn't realize the CUCV used 12V for their trailers... knowing what I know now, and realizing I don't need the millitary connector, I'd have removed it, opened up the hole and stuck a seven pin in, the hole and ben done.

If You just want the 4 pin, I'd suggest scotch locks and splicing into the millitary trailer harness and letting the connector hang under the bumper. The wire colors are in the TM diagrams.

Tom
 

biggestc69

Member
228
1
18
Location
Council Grove KS
My harness looked like it was a flat 5 plug. Maybe a previous owner cobbled it up. I've decieded to go ahead and run a round six and trailer brake controller splicing into the wires on the back of the army plug. I thought about doing away with the army plug but in the event that I can get a cheap 105 trailer it would be nice to have.
 

Lizard Dog

Member
78
1
8
Location
Los Angeles, Calif.
Or you can buy a cheap flat 4, and a complete 3-pin weatherpack connector (1 male end, 1 female end) and build your own adapter that will plug in right where the military trailer plug connects to the wiring harness. You can switch between military and civilian wiring in about 30 seconds.
I used jmassenga's technique, (from post #20), and made an adapter that plugs into the factory harness. Then I replaced the military receptacle with a 7-pin & 4-pin one from the parts store. I sprayed with with Rapco 383 to match. Works great and looks right!
Screen Shot 2014-11-19 at 10.38.27 pm.jpgIMG_4515.jpgIMG_4559.jpg
 
Last edited:

Drock

New member
1,020
10
0
Location
Eatonton GA
Or you can just take the time to wire in a separate, 4/7 prong plug that way you have 3 options. 1 military and 2 civilian plugs. Here's how I did mine on my M1028..........Trailer plug1.jpg
 
Top
AdBlock Detected

We get it, advertisements are annoying!

Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website like our supporting vendors. Their ads help keep Steel Soldiers going. Please consider disabling your ad blockers for the site. Thanks!

I've Disabled AdBlock
No Thanks