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What have you done to your HMMWV today/lately

infidel got me

Well-known member
1,679
32
48
Location
Newberry, Florida
dd.jpgd1.jpgd2.jpgd3.jpg Lots of work. Use stripper, sand, fill small cracks/dents/holes with bondo/ re-sand/ prime and paint. Will post pics. when finished. So far not to bad, just very time consuming!!!
 

3jacks

Active member
153
39
28
Location
Near Jackson, MO
View attachment 681478View attachment 681479View attachment 681489View attachment 681490 Lots of work. Use stripper, sand, fill small cracks/dents/holes with bondo/ re-sand/ prime and paint. Will post pics. when finished. So far not to bad, just very time consuming!!!
I am in the process of doing the same thing. Started with pressure washer for the really loose stuff. Are you using regular bondo or a resin with glass fibers in it? I was concerned regular bondo would not adhere well and I have some decent size damaged areas...
 

infidel got me

Well-known member
1,679
32
48
Location
Newberry, Florida
I have only slight damage. If you have heavy cracks/holes I would use the resin w fiber. Straight up resin works well also. Good luck with the rehab, plan on a few days of work!!!

Post some before and after-- lets see how you did, and what you did. If you have a quicker way I'm all in. lol
 

NormB

Well-known member
1,220
72
48
Location
Cloverly,MD
Got the 271 TC installed today. Lift didn't reach. I wound up lowering it, pulling it up into my lap and lifting it into place. Not easy, but without a tank, driveshaft or muffler there's a LOT of room to maneuver. Glad I ate my Wheaties this morning. Filled it up with fresh ATF which flowed over the side a bit so after it stopped dripping, I torqued down the filler bolt, hosed it off with carb cleaner (acetone and toluene) and have checked periodically for hours. So far so good. No oozing.

IMG_0059.JPG

I reassembled the fuel tank yesterday. Bit of a chore.

IMG_0060.JPG

Installed the dual oil filter unit too. That was most satisfying. I'd already bought a case of WIX filters, used the ones that came with the conversion.

I also drilled four holes for locating cut lines to make an access panel/hatch over the fuel sender/wiring/etc too.

I'll upload pictures when I've got it hooked up. Should be a quick job. Should. But most simple jobs take hours, don't they?

Tomorrow's planning includes adjusting the TC shift rod, cutting out the hatch from the tunnel, installing the front propeller shaft/bearing, maybe the tank, or the fuel filter. Add power steering fluid too.

I'd really like to get it running, pull it out of the garage for a ride, bring it back and drain the transmission so I can change the filter.
 

teteacher101

Member
127
4
18
Location
WI
After some calling around trying to find a local shop I trusted an would be willing to work on a Humvee I was able to talk a shop into it-barely. :)

So I replaced the pitman arm an one CV shaft just in time to make my appointment. I had them mount 2 rear tires an wrestle the run flats in them, balance all 4 tires, and do a 4 wheel alignment. I dropped off alignment specs an new wheel o-rings for them also.

They had the thing all day an I was getting nervous to what the bill was going to be. So I went there right before they closed an it was just getting done. He said he had 2 to 3 guys on it at various times, wrestling the tires, heating up bolts on the control arm mounts to remove/add shims, heating up the adjustment sleeves on the tie rods, prying on this or that, etc. He said he isn't sure if he is ready to tell people he will work on them as this is their first one and it was a real learning curve. Lol. He was kinda worried about the bill I think (so was I) as he kept going on about how much time they had in it but couldn't charge me for everything since they had never worked on one before an were learning at the same time. Finally, he goes the total for everything is $244. I couldn't pay it fast enough! I think for what they did it was a very fair price. It goes down the road straight an smooth and handles a lot better.
 

General Hood

Member
712
2
18
Location
Fort Towson, OK
After some calling around trying to find a local shop I trusted an would be willing to work on a Humvee I was able to talk a shop into it-barely. :)

So I replaced the pitman arm an one CV shaft just in time to make my appointment. I had them mount 2 rear tires an wrestle the run flats in them, balance all 4 tires, and do a 4 wheel alignment. I dropped off alignment specs an new wheel o-rings for them also.

They had the thing all day an I was getting nervous to what the bill was going to be. So I went there right before they closed an it was just getting done. He said he had 2 to 3 guys on it at various times, wrestling the tires, heating up bolts on the control arm mounts to remove/add shims, heating up the adjustment sleeves on the tie rods, prying on this or that, etc. He said he isn't sure if he is ready to tell people he will work on them as this is their first one and it was a real learning curve. Lol. He was kinda worried about the bill I think (so was I) as he kept going on about how much time they had in it but couldn't charge me for everything since they had never worked on one before an were learning at the same time. Finally, he goes the total for everything is $244. I couldn't pay it fast enough! I think for what they did it was a very fair price. It goes down the road straight an smooth and handles a lot better.
Good deal in my opinion, I've paid as much as $100 for a tire shop to replace an O ring on a super single (M923)
 

Wire Fox

Well-known member
1,252
161
63
Location
Indianapolis, Indiana
Good time for a break... The other day, I picked up my propeller shafts from Power Train. They replaced the carrier bearing, about three u-joints, lengthened the front, shortened the rear, and balanced it all for about $175. Absolutely fantastic work at a great value. Only hangup is they've left me to connect the front a mid-shaft together and didn't include the spring clips, so I've had to order another u-joint to rob its clips, since nobody will sell just the clips...
Next up is I've started to install one of my good deals I've grabbed from Findlay: PulseTech 24 PDU with battery tester and solar panel. The PDU is dropped into the usual spot beside the batteries, I have the tester routed to be adhered to the front of the battery box, and I've routed the large solar panel on top of the hood. I haven't 100% committed to the location of anything yet, so they're being secured with RTV and I'll see how it holds up. At the same time, I've also run the 14V lead from the alternator to the battery box, being careful about the routing. Made the cut of length I needed, but I need to order some good cable insulation to make sure the lead is protected to finish the job. It'll be installed shortly. (Plus I have enough material to make a 2nd one, so I'll finish them both one and offer one for sale in case someone doesn't want to go through the trouble of buying the wire, leads, and housing to make just one long wire.)
WP_20170528_13_04_57_Pro_LI.jpg

Last thing that I'm working on right now is organizing all of the parts I've accrued. I'm getting pretty tired of the weeks of going "Where the ---- did that bag of bolts go!?" so it's at least time to organize everything into sub-systems of parts w/fastener, and have the rest of the fasteners at least be lumped together in a somewhat logical manner.
WP_20170529_13_42_37_Pro_LI.jpg
 

infidel got me

Well-known member
1,679
32
48
Location
Newberry, Florida
ecvhooks.jpgecvhooks1.jpgtool.jpgtool1.jpgecvhooks1.jpg Replaced old style lift hooks. Also replaced delaminated windows. The windows were easy to change, except the screws that are in the upper channel were really hard to tighten up with a regular screwdriver. This tool I've had for 20 plus years and is a lifesaver. It ia a bodymans wheel opening tool. Back in the day when cars were made of metal and not plastic, chrome was used in the wheel openings-- this was the tool used to install/remove these trim pieces without removing the wheel. It can be used with the little palm screwdriver or a snap-on phillips.It will give you the extra torque needed for stubborn screws. P.S. Shout out to Steve at federal military parts.... Great customer service !!!
 

Bravojmc

New member
512
5
0
Location
Palisade, Colorado
View attachment 682353View attachment 682354View attachment 682355View attachment 682356View attachment 682354 Replaced old style lift hooks. Also replaced delaminated windows. The windows were easy to change, except the screws that are in the upper channel were really hard to tighten up with a regular screwdriver. This tool I've had for 20 plus years and is a lifesaver. It ia a bodymans wheel opening tool. Back in the day when cars were made of metal and not plastic, chrome was used in the wheel openings-- this was the tool used to install/remove these trim pieces without removing the wheel. It can be used with the little palm screwdriver or a snap-on phillips.It will give you the extra torque needed for stubborn screws. P.S. Shout out to Steve at federal military parts.... Great customer service !!!
Where did you get the hooks...?
 
171
5
18
Location
Chaska, MN
Next up is I've started to install one of my good deals I've grabbed from Findlay: PulseTech 24 PDU with battery tester and solar panel. The PDU is dropped into the usual spot beside the batteries, I have the tester routed to be adhered to the front of the battery box, and I've routed the large solar panel on top of the hood. I haven't 100% committed to the location of anything yet, so they're being secured with RTV and I'll see how it holds up. At the same time, I've also run the 14V lead from the alternator to the battery box, being careful about the routing. Made the cut of length I needed, but I need to order some good cable insulation to make sure the lead is protected to finish the job. It'll be installed shortly. (Plus I have enough material to make a 2nd one, so I'll finish them both one and offer one for sale in case someone doesn't want to go through the trouble of buying the wire, leads, and housing to make just one long wire.)
View attachment 682352
Would you be so kind as to measure the voltage output on the three prongs of the round solar panel connector that goes to the push to test box? i.e. is one ground, one 12v and the other 24v and which is which...
 

NormB

Well-known member
1,220
72
48
Location
Cloverly,MD
Access panel cutout. Figure I'll drill a couple holes in the "hump" (the tabs are in the LOW part), run a zip-tie though fore and aft, then just run a bead of silicone in the gap for weather/exhaust fume proofing. Layer of insulation and the plywood board goes over it anyway.

IMG_0240.jpgIMG_0239.jpg

Also got the front propeller shaft in, lubed, hit all the zerk fittings up front while I was under there (Will get top fittings before I move it out of the garage).

Had a bear of a time getting the TC shifter rod adjusted and into place. There's SO much slop in there, I tried putting in a second washer, could get cotter key in ONE side, not out the other. Seemed like a good idea at the time. Seems to work.
 

Lawdog734

Active member
258
79
28
Location
Colbert, GA
I painted my doors to match the rest of the truck this weekend and used my wife's vinyl cutter to cut out all new sticker markings for the truck. I marked it up as a A/1/5SFG truck - I have a close friend who was on ODA 511 during the invasion of Afghanistan and Iraq. They used GMV's extensively. I purposely used a stencil font for the unit markings to make them look like they were added after the fact. All of the other lettering came out just like it's supposed to.

20170528_192005_zpsgyg5wrns.jpg

20170528_192032_zps9rfsnzvy.jpg

20170527_152734_zpsgtzpxyqo.jpg

20170527_152807_zpsozd53ygb.jpg

I also finally got around to looking over the front passenger door on my slantback - the latch has been stiff as **** for too long. I messed with shims on the latch side to no avail, so I added a washer/shim to the hinge pins. They're now about as good as I ever could ask for.
 
Last edited:

Gear Report

Active member
265
45
28
Location
Nc
Put a new soft top and a Luverne brushguard on the Battlewagon in the last week or so. Took some pictures this weekend. Big difference from the way I brought it home!
Gear-Report_Project_HMMWV_Battlewagon (9).jpgDSC_0061.JPG
 

Wire Fox

Well-known member
1,252
161
63
Location
Indianapolis, Indiana
Would you be so kind as to measure the voltage output on the three prongs of the round solar panel connector that goes to the push to test box? i.e. is one ground, one 12v and the other 24v and which is which...
I'll do you one better, because this is exactly the information I was going to be looking for until I found a complete set for cheap. First off, the connector it uses is a standard 3-pin DIN connector (why did they use a non-weather audio connector?). Specifically, it looks just like this connector: http://www.rean-connectors.com/en/products/din-cable-connectors/nys321g with the gold contacts and everything. The image I took will even show "REAN" etched in the side. Second, it's only a 2-conductor wire (that appears to be a twisted pair), so pin 3 (and the housing) is dead. All the PDU does is pulse 28V across both batteries at once. It's 14V capacity is because it has a lead that will pull off of just one battery, so you shouldn't use this in place of a 14V transformer unless you have a dual voltage alternator. Last bit to note about the PDU itself is its ground lead is woefully undersize. It's using about a 16 or 18 AWG wire for its only ground, yet optimistically believes it's going to act as a master circuit breaker for the vehicle's accessories.

The final wiring is dead simple. Pin 1: +28V Pin 2: Gnd Pin 3: N/C Housing: N/C
WP_20170529_18_30_50_Pro_LI.jpgWP_20170529_18_30_41_Pro_LI.jpg
(Pin 1 is on the far-right, as seen in the picture. Pin 2 is the top pin)

I'm going to use this PDU until it fails. When it does, I'll replace the ground lead with a reasonable lead (seriously, all of the other leads are a more substantial gauge...) and possible the solar panel connector with anything from the amphenol lineup. This thing had to have been designed by a freshman intern...
 

Gear Report

Active member
265
45
28
Location
Nc
how watertight is it with the new doors?
COMPLETELY watertight...
... except for the places it isn't. :roll:

Doors seal good where they make contact. However, the top front corners of the rear doors have a sizable gap. Rear top corner of front doors have a small gap.
 

Bulldogger

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
1,328
585
113
Location
Quantico VA
Installed front fender jack storage. Had to replace the latches. Also installed new LED license plate holder from TMG. Old one burnt out, and they gave me a hefty discount on the replacement.
Then the voltage regulator gave up and I couldn't drive it!
Ah well, one more thing to do then...
Bulldogger
 

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