Wheel hop at 45 mph

[allenhillview]

Today , balanced drums, took apart from hub, cleaned, went to co-op and yes they balanced out to 2.75 oz on one and the other was 1.25oz not as much as I thought it would be but we'll see when I put all back.

Doing brakes ( those are not cheap) while there, axle seals, wheel cylinders, removed backing plates cleaned and cleaned.

Now when returned home, took mag weights from co-op and weighed on postal scales then cut 3/16 " flat bar stock and cut till it weighed the same as mag weights took to muffler shop and wire welded on inside edge(outside of drum though) closest to wheel center as possible, painted and praying it did some good, won't know till Mon. since I'm waiting on front shackle up grade from ord to come, all prep done on that but it's been 5 days, they usually make it sooner but not this time.

Also no pics sorry in advance. Try to do that tomorrow before re install.

 

[rickycotte]

Well heck guys, I was hoping that the Balance Masters would solve your issues like they did for me. I know I love 'em.

Hey, the idea is good. I appreciate your input. I will wait for their reply. I would definitively buy 2 for the rears. I saw some similar as I would need (F350 8 lug) and they are running at $190.00 a piece. Anyway, I would acquire them since I am planning to keep my truck until either one of us crumbles away.

Allen, your drums were not that away from balance. Mine are unbelievable. I am planning on welding something because trial no. 2 today using some epoxy stuff failed after several revolutions. (I was away from home and was time pressed. Maybe did not let it harden enough ) I may try with some steel flat bar; enough to equate to the 718 lb/cu ft. specific weight of cast lead.

Another option is to drill some holes and thread them to install allen hex countersunk screw to hold down the lead weights. Maybe new(decent) drums?

I will keep watching on your technique.

 

[rwoods]

Hey, the idea is good. I appreciate your input. I will wait for their reply. I would definitively buy 2 for the rears. I saw some similar as I would need (F350 8 lug) and they are running at $190.00 a piece. Anyway, I would acquire them since I am planning to keep my truck until either one of us crumbles away.

Allen, your drums were not that away from balance. Mine are unbelievable. I am planning on welding something because trial no. 2 today using some epoxy stuff failed after several revolutions. (I was away from home and was time pressed. Maybe did not let it harden enough ) I may try with some steel flat bar; enough to equate to the 718 lb/cu ft. specific weight of cast lead.

Another option is to drill some holes and thread them to install allen hex countersunk screw to hold down the lead weights. Maybe new(decent) drums?

I will keep watching on your technique.

This is what I was thinking. Brake drums get pretty hot so I don't think you are going to find a non-elastic adhesive that will work given the dissimilar metals. I'm still trying to find someone willing to check my drums. I may just try our local COOP since I am just down the road from Allen. Ron

 

[allenhillview]

Jonesborough, Co-op, see James he's been there forever

 

[rwoods]

Thanks. Ron

 

[allenhillview]

No updates till early next week, ord out of bushings, can't ship my other stuff till then.

 

[rickycotte]

Fixed my truck for the time being... used good ol' JB Weld to fix some lead weigths to the drums. I did a 200 miles plus round trip today with flying colors...speeds up to 70 MPH. None of them flung out.

I let them harden real good overnight. Before that, cleaned the area real well with stainless steel wire brush, flushed with brake cleaner and glued them to the bare (gray metal). It helped a lot that I am located on a warm climate here in the Caribbean.

 

[allenhillview]

rickycotte, I guess you read about my set back? All else went back together just fine, but the front, waiting, It will be a long week. See ya

 

[allenhillview]

rickycotte, Also found arch on one of my front leafs is off by 3/8" so I'm getting new daytons shipped today. Got oem stuff no lift just what it had. Still yet another week to go before drum test. see ya

 

[chevyCUCV]

Just curious,
Why rebuild the rear brakes?
Wouldnt disks be a better option, even if they cost more the better braking and no more grabbing in the rain would be worth it to me.

 

[allenhillview]

The e- brake always never works correctly, and if it does, requires lots of tweaking, or pay high dollar for the shaft e-brake, not me; yet, not to mention proportioning valve, Some say you need one that adjust.

Now why do I want to add disc brake? Be unsure all the time? Not me.

If all slots in drums have correct hardware they do well, making sure to keep all open slots in the backing plate closed with correct keepers.

We have a 92 w-250 bought new here on this farm,cummins, drum brakes, great truck, I have it for comparison.

 

[allenhillview]

This is a great truck, not a fixer upper per-say.
Thanks, chevycucv" for reply.

 

[allenhillview]

Spend alot of time on details, this drum balance thing has driven me crazy but getting there.

 

[Sharecropper]

When I first got my M1028, the rear brakes were locking up bad. Pulled the drums and discovered that the drum faces were scored so severly that new drums would be required. After adding up the costs for new drums, shoes, and everything else to completely rebuild the rear brakes, I decided to install a disc brake conversion. See my post at

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/cucv/52121-rear-disc-brakes.html

Hope this helps.

 

[Sharecropper]

As a follow-up to my previous post -

Allenhillview, my truck will stop on a dime going forward or backward. The calipers are rebuilt 1977 Cadillac El Dorado with the emergency brakes. These things work flawlessly and will hold the truck on a steep incline. I have much more confidence in the disc brakes than the original drums. Another thing, in wet weather, or after driving across a creek when the water gets above the axles, the brakes still work perfectly. After having experienced the disc brakes, I could not revert to drums.

Regarding the proportioning valve, this is an easy fix. I posted details of fabricating a correctly-lengthened arm, as well as proper adjustment of the valve itself, in post #75 of my rebuild thread http://www.steelsoldiers.com/cucv/54469-kinda-got-carried-away-8.html

Hope this helps.

 

[allenhillview]

As a follow-up to my previous post -

Allenhillview, my truck will stop on a dime going forward or backward. The calipers are rebuilt 1977 Cadillac El Dorado with the emergency brakes. These things work flawlessly and will hold the truck on a steep incline. I have much more confidence in the disc brakes than the original drums. Another thing, in wet weather, or after driving across a creek when the water gets above the axles, the brakes still work perfectly. After having experienced the disc brakes, I could not revert to drums.

Regarding the proportioning valve, this is an easy fix. I posted details of fabricating a correctly-lengthened arm, as well as proper adjustment of the valve itself, in post #75 of my rebuild thread http://www.steelsoldiers.com/cucv/54469-kinda-got-carried-away-8.html

Hope this helps.

I have read your build and referenced it several times, good one, you are right about the cost i was within 150.00 of disc after new shoes and re surface cost plus i have no money in balance procedure if it works? waiting on some stuff from ord! But; do your e brakes work well and did you modify the cables any for fit, how did that work out where the cable attaches to caliber? I have no lift so arm would be ok, right? I was speaking of valve on front to rear proportioning. I spent 200.00

 

[Sharecropper]

Allen;

My disc brakes are much more responsive and non-problematic than the factory drums. The truck literally stops as good as my wife's sports car. I know that sounds crazy, but its true.

The emergency brake cables attach to the calipers the same as the drums. The brake lines are re-routed and attached to flexible stainless steel lines which are then attached to the calipers. These stainless steel lines are held in place by a small steel tab which is tack-welded onto the axle housing or spring perch.

If you are not raising the truck, then you should not need to do anything to the rear proportioning valve. I would, however, check the valve with no weight in the truck to assure that the little dot is straight up. If it needs adjustment, simply remove the nut which holds the short arm to the valve, then pull off the short arm, rotate the valve stud so that the dot is straight up, and them replace the arm and nut. It is that simple.

Hope this helps.

 

[rwoods]

I fixed one thing today and wheel hop seems to be gone -- I replaced the parking brake cable. I knew the parking brake was screwed up when I bought the truck as the former owner had the pedal held up with a bungee cord. I didn't know until yesterday that the cable wasn't retracting completely and thus the brake was always partially applied. Maybe this week I can give it an extended run to see for sure but the wheel hop seemed to be gone when I took a short spin today. Ron