• Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!

  • Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.

Where to get Tie Rod End Socket Seals?

jpg

Member
611
15
18
Location
Boston, MA
The TM says I should replace the rubber "tie-rod socket seals" on my tie rod ends while I have them apart for installation of new kingpin springs. I can't find anyone who sells the seals. I can see that the seal comes in the box if I buy a new tie rod. Where can I get the seals?

I just spend half an hour searching. I must be using the wrong search terms... I looked on SS, Summit, RockAuto, LMC, etc... I can find new tie rod ends that come with new seals, but not the seals alone.

Thanks!
 
Last edited:

Chaski

Active member
684
56
28
Location
Burney/CA
I am not positive about this, but I think with the steering wheel unlocked and with the vehicle supported with the wheels off you can actually manipulate the drag link and the arm that bolts to the top of the knuckle over the studs without taking any of the ball joints off. With 100% certainty I know the job can be done without messing with the ball joints if you double nut the studs and unscrew them. The thread is 1/2*20 if you want to buy some nuts beforehand so that you don't risk damaging the stock tapered nuts.
 

fitz

Member
268
13
18
Location
Mass
While I hate to second guess the TM's I didn't remove my tie rods or drag link to replace my springs & bushings.
 

jpg

Member
611
15
18
Location
Boston, MA
Thanks guys. I'll use the double-nut approach and pull the studs.

Update: The double-nut approach worked like a charm. It's a bit tedious, but I didn't damage my hard-to-replace tie rod end seals.

I still need to replace the 30-year-old rubber boots, they're failing due to age, but that's another project.
 
Last edited:

fitz

Member
268
13
18
Location
Mass
Thanks guys. I'll use the double-nut approach and pull the studs.

I still need to replace the 30-year-old rubber boots, they're failing due to age, but that's another project.
There is no need to pull the studs. With a little wiggling, the steering arm will lift off.
 

jpg

Member
611
15
18
Location
Boston, MA
There is no need to pull the studs. With a little wiggling, the steering arm will lift off.
Mine was too tight to do that. Perhaps it would have worked if I'd used more force, but I have a long history of breaking things when I use too much force.
 

jpg

Member
611
15
18
Location
Boston, MA
Yes, driver side installation went well. Passenger side tomorrow.

I used the double nut trick to remove and install the studs. I couldn't find a torque spec for the studs, so I used the same as the nuts (80 lbs). Does anyone know the proper torque for the Kingpin Cap Studs? #21 in this excerpt from Fig 101 in TM9-2320-289-34P.
knuckle.JPG

Bushings were OK. I installed the urethane block instead of a spring, hoping to kill the death wobble forever. We'll see...
Kingpin spring eliminator kit.JPG
(ORD has these.)
 

doghead

4 Star General /Moderator
Staff member
Super Moderator
Steel Soldiers Supporter
26,246
1,177
113
Location
NY
A while back someone posted a WTB ad for the tie rod end boots.

Dorman makes them, iirc.

They were only a couple bucks.
 
Top
AdBlock Detected

We get it, advertisements are annoying!

Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website like our supporting vendors. Their ads help keep Steel Soldiers going. Please consider disabling your ad blockers for the site. Thanks!

I've Disabled AdBlock
No Thanks