m1009 manual glow plug switch

I have read the previous threads on manual glow plug switch hook ups. But I have two questions before I hook it up the wrong way and fry my truck. One: does the light blue wire stay connected to the glow plug relay, or does it just get disconnected. Two: does the other wire coming from the momentary switch go to a ground somewhere, or does it go to one of the batteries positive post( I have seen pictures of it going to batteries and read that it goes to a ground). Please advise.

Is there an issue with your GP system?

Are you leaving the stock glowplug system installed? If not just pull the control card out and store it on the shelf.

The pink wire on the GP relay is your 12v source. It is hot whenever the key is on.

I don't know why everyone tries to make this so complicated. All that is required is provide a ground for the system. That is what the controller card does.

This is accomplished by leaving the stock system in place, add a wire to the GP relay that has the light blue wire, add a switch and then ground the switch.

No wire cutting, no wire splicing.

Very simple.

Thanks Warthog

Once the manual glow plug push button set-up is installed, does anyone have any time - temperature information as to how long you hold down the push button?

12 seconds.

doghead said:

12 seconds.

Click to expand...

+ or - depending...

Thank you! But, doesn't the time the glow plugs need to heat depend upon the outside temperature as well as how warm the engine is?

Yes, somewhat.

If your engine temp is around 150 or higher, you should not need them at all.

Outside temp below freezing, maybe go more seconds.

All this also depends on which GPs your using, what battery voltage you supply and your engine condition.

A working controller card is my preference.

Also, a controller continues to energize them after it has started. This is called after glow. It helps.

A bit of personal trial and error may be needed for your use(to "perfect" the guessing game of manual control).

There is a difference between starting and optimal starting.

Thanks for the information!

As you may have guessed, I am having (warm) starting issues with my M1009. I read earlier posts and I have replaced my coolant temperature sensor with a cross referenced one which seemed to work for a couple of days. But now I am back to the hard warm starts while my cold starts work on the 'first pull'.

Mechanics have rewired my M1009 form 24V to 12V. Troubleshooting and fixing issues may take a bit. But, other than the warm start probleming, my M1009 runs great.

I have old construction equipment that have manual glow plugs. Those start well so my thinking was to wire-up a manual system in my M1009.

Bad warm starts are usually not glow plug related. Does the glow plug solenoid clunk when you turn the key on, or does the wait light come on when it's warm? The temperature sensor for the glow plug module can go bad and could cause some slow starting issues if the engine is luke-warm.

Sounds like it might be time to test the injection pump solenoid. Injection pump is top front of the engine. The solenoid has the pink wire attached to it.
To check it:
Get the engine warmed up. Turn the key on (engine off), unplug and re-plug the pink wire. you should hear clicking when you pull it off and put it back on. If not, its probably time for a new one. Another way to check it out when it's warmed up: you can put an ice pack or pour cold water over the solenoid to cool it off, and see if it starts up.

Thank you for the response!

When it's warm and I shut it down, immediate re-start attempts work. If I wait until it cools a bit, then starting becomes an issue until it completely cools down. Then it will fire right back up once I let the glow plugs heat, the wait light goes out, and after I hear the relay 'clunk' which may take awhile in cold weather.

But, once I let it cool down a bit, it won't start. The 'wait' light does not come on and the glow plug relay does not seem to pull in because I am not hearing the clunk.

With engine off and the ignition on, I removed and reinstalled the pink wire from the injector pump solenoid (as suggested above) and the solenoid clicked on and off. So, perhaps we can rule out the injector pump solenoid?

My M1009 did seem to start a couple of times fairly easily after 15 minutes; but, at that time the outside temperature was around 50 degrees. Unfortunately, I still seem to have the problem with the motor not wanting to start when warm and after abour a 15-minute cool down period this evening as it is cooling down into the lower 40's. Again, my M1009 starts GREAT when cold.

As stated previously, I removed the old coolant temperature sensor and installed a new 'after-market' one.

Could the problem be with the electronic glow plug controller card? That's why I'm leaning towards the manual glow plug set-up.

Thanks again.

Which coolant sensor did you replace? Was it the one on the drivers side head, intake side, rear?

Yes. I replaced the the sensor at the drivers side rear (black and white wires running to it). When I removed it, coolant leaked out.

However, I noted a similar connector in the wiring harness of which the aforesaid sensor was a part; it has a similar connection to the coolant temperature sensor and had a blue wire with a red trace. This connector is disconnected, taped-off and taped to the wiring harness and seems to have been out of service for quite some time. I did not take the time yet to view the wiring diagrams and see what this was and if this may be a part of my warm starting issue. But, the warm starting issue has just cropped up.

That blue wire is for the M1010 rear heater fuel pump. It is not used on the other CUCVs.

Thanks for the info about the blue wire. I can put my mind at ease about it.

Tomorrow, it looks like I will be trouble shooting my M1009 glow plug control system and installing a manual glow plug set-up.

Well, today I checked out my GP system and purchased materials to install a manual GP system due to having warm starting issues with my M1009. [Note that I had a local shop rebuild my alternators and another shop attempt to reinstall them. The result was a few fried wires, etc. And, still another shop did some rewiring and converted the whole thing to 12v complete with a gear reduction starter.Now, its my turn to hopefully right all the electrical injustices my poor M1009 has been through.] So, back to the manul GP set-up.

A number of notes back a simple wiring schematic was presented which showed a switch tied into the light blue controller wire that reports to ground. I may have something fired because here is what I found today (note that my M1009 starts and runs fine when its cold; but, it's hard to get started when its warm.):

There is no power to either the pink/black wire nor the light blue wire at the GP relay with the key switch off. With the key switch on, the wait light is on, the relay is pulled in and power from the pink/black wire to ground reads 10.9V and from the light blue wire I'm seeing 0.9v.

When the wait light goes out and the relay coil drops out the voltage from the pink/black wire to ground is 12v and there is 12v from light blue wire to ground. It seems if I were to follow the aforesaid wiring diagram, I would have a dead short.

Does someone have some thoughts on this?

You will not have a dead short, you will have an electrical device(load). Those 2 small terminals are on either end of a coil of wire! That is what is called an "electromagnet".

Your description of voltages and when you have them sounds correct.

This is also very well covered in the -20TM, under the troubleshooting for the GP system.

Hook up your manual pushbutton and see if it helps with the warm starts. If not, you have other issues.