GOT MY WHEELS TODAY!!! Added pic of XL on wheel!

Lets just be honest here...I had wood over my wheels today. Seven, five ton, 20 bolt, beadlock wheels! Sooo nice...ahhhh. The plan is to sandwich a waterjet cut plate inbetween the back half can and the front plate. The tough decision is to decide if it will be possible to keep the 10 hole stock center in the outter plate or if it will need to be removed. The wheels are AWESOME looking! I slapped one into one of the XL's and...well, the first sentence sums it up. [^] How overbuilt are these wheels? 20...TWENTY 5/8" studs to hold the center on!!! I'll grab some pics in the next couple days. Gotta go put the final dims on my AutoCad center plate design.

I didn't know you were trying to keep the ten hole centers! That would be cool, no modifications to the original rim, right? Maybe a four-way tapered lug wrench would get the lugs on/off, but I don't think the impact will work. Let me know how it turns out.

Here's how close it is. The deuce lug pattern is 6 on 8-3/4" centers. The center hole in the combat wheel is 8-3/4". So you gotta figure that whatever size driver/extension thickness, half of it is gonna be into that center hole. Oh, and it looks like there's gonna like 1-1/4" to 1-1/2" from new center plate to 10 hole plate. I'm not even sure that a socket will fit. Might have to buy a big wrench and do it the hard way...but...it should be wicked cool when all lugs are finally secured. It might end up being an after though of a heavy duty guard for future lockouts. I just printed out my AutoCAD water jet plate and will try and verify all dimensions tomorrow and get these puppies into production...hopefully next week. Pop looked at the tire and wheel combo and for like 10 whole seconds just looked at it and didn't say a thing. I said, "That's the BOMB, eh old boy?" He shook his head and walked away. The ten seconds gave him away. He likes them but doesn't want to encourage me as all this stuff ends up at the farm. :banghead: I think he also realizes that soom 10 tires and wheels will around too. HA!

So what kind of backspacing will that leave you with? I think mine is 6" and it puts the tires out to the edge of the bed and a couple inches outside the front fenders. I assuming you will have more backspacing, maybe 9" or so? That should line 'em up with the front fenders.

I have the same wheels you have on yours on my M715. Same 6" back and 4" front spacing...would like to have a little more backspacing on those. I *think* they're 10" cans on the 5 ton wheels. Check the pic, you can see that the original 10 hole center raises up and is about parallel with the outer bead. By me sandwiching a flat plate in there I should get about 1-1/2" back. I expect backspacing to be 8"-9". Oh, another thing, the dropside bed is an inch narrower per side to the outside of the bedrail. If you measure outside of hinge to outside of hinge, then it's the same width as stock. That will give it a slightly narrower appearance and even it my wheels have two inches more backspacing than yours the back will still be out close to the bed side.

Well, here's just about what they'll look like. I don't have the plate that will be sandwiched inbetween the can and the original center, but refund time is nearly here!

Those wheels are the hotness.

sweet, that pic of the wheel on the bumper next to the old MINI tires (wow, never thought I'd call those mini), that's bad. You have to let us know how long the combat wheels take to change. Other than finding them, the only drawback I've heard is that they take about 4 times as long to change per wheel. Is that right?

Let's see what Tom thinks, but it takes me and a helper about 20-30 minutes to mount a tire. You are basically talking about 20-36 bolts for the beadlock, depending on the rim style. If you have good air, it really isn't too bad. The tires are just heavy. The good thing is you once you get the first one done, you only have 5 left!

um one ? how do you plan to fit them.

RDD,
Physically, they'll fit on the truck. The rear axles are right about 48" apart and these are about 46" around so there's gonna be enough clearance to work.



OR...you mean that pesky 10 hole pattern? I've got that taken care of compliments of AutoCad and a CNC Waterjet machine.



Found out today that I'll be buying a house at the end of this month and must 'show' a certain amount in my bank account to safisfy the power's that be. That means that I'm to next month before I get them on. Poop. Eh, oh well...suppose in the mean time I could flip the hubs or something constructive.

ahhhmmmm i like dem' gota get me a set when i swap in 5 ton axles!

hey one other thing...not tring to hijack the thred but what size clutch did you use with the 1160? and what # SAE bell did you use?
Thanks

I used a 13" single disc truck clutch. Full pad on disc not the 6 pucks like the deuces. If my CAT was at 275hp or more, I'd go with a twin disc set up.

Okay...it's been a while, but if I recall correctly...the 3053A's bell is an SAE #3, the CAT had an SAE #2 and the Multifuel had some messed up militarized #1. I had a buddy with a big enough machine machine the step off of the multifuels original plate adapter. I then drew up the three SAE patterns on AutoCad and sent it to another buddy with a plotter big enough to print out the drawing to a 1:1 scale. I located the #3 hole pattern, then center punched the #2 pattern and drilled them. The #3 and #2 patterns are pretty close to each other and I needed to just make a little clearance for the CAT's bell bolts at the outside of the 3053's bell. I also used socket head bolts to reduce the head radius. I called CAT to see if there were adapters out there and they gave me a price of around $400 and the adapter was over and inch thick. Well that wouldn't do! :banghead: Another thing, using a single disc clutch on the CAT made the clutch and t/o bearing about 7/8" farther away from where they were originally in multifuel's clutch arrangement. I took two t/o bearings, machined the face off of one, mached the back off of another with a step so I could press them together then weld the seam. That allowed me to extend the t/o bearing and have the clutch working like normal. without extending the t/o bearing, the clutch rail would not have had enough travel to push the t/o into the pressure plate deep enough. Twin disc would have most likely remedied this, but I didn't feel I needed that extra meat in the clutch.

Sounds like you went through the same fun I am going through right now. I am having to change throwout bearings and all sorts of fun since I'm putting a weird 6855 OD tranny behind the 3208. I am going to throw the input shaft in a lathe to mate up with the pilot bearing (it's only a little bit off) and I'm having to get all these special clutch disks and what not in place. What a PITA! Thank god most of this is a little bit standardized.

Bob

Yeah no kidding i was just in the same boat. hard to fing the right flywheel and such then that 501 aircompressor with the thru-drive was a pain had to make a gear then the ps pump on the back of it AHK my god thank god for a little standardization like trango said.

I'm putting a 6.2 to a NV4500 trans in Katie's M715. I didn't want to go with the stock bellhousing and forced hydraulic linkage so I picked up and old lakewood scattershield so I'd be able to modify it. Had to relocate three of four threaded inserts, redrill housing of transmission, open up the main input hole to fit the larger bearing retainer, cut out and reweld the bulge for the starter nose seeing's how the 6.2 starter nose is a burly one, make up a slider housing for the throw out bearing to slide on since this NV4500 never came with one, shorten Z-bar, make up new mount for pivot ball for Z-bar...etc.

I love doing this stuff!!!

Dude you're nuts.

And the luckiest guy alive - you find me a tall, hot woman that likes this stuff and I'll get you a finder's fee.

If Katie had a bunch of sisters I could retire now! Heh,heh.