Correct shackles

I never seen one with a full set of 4 mounted
I now have two trucks and guess what no shackles at all!
Some say you can use from a Deuce but these are not the correct ones as they are angled...
They are one of the most hard to find part of the CUCVs...

They are not hard to find. They are just a bit pricey. I have them if you need them. But I am not giving them away. Europe that can be tricky but it can be done. What part of Europe? Got any nice Cuckoo clocks?

I have a full set also

My M1031 has a full set.I could try to get close up pics this weekend if you would like.

When you get your shackles you might consider tack welding a pin to prevent theft. The cotter pins are easily removed.

I hammer roll pins in to keep them safe. Not 100% but 99 99/100% safe. I would hear that racket if they were hammering them out. Good advise on the tack weld. I do like the rattling when off road. Thru the high weeds it sounds like someone is hitting the front bumper with a hammer. I have a video of a 2 mile trip thru a field that the weeds are roof high in the M1009. Last week we went to check on a property that has been sitting idle for a few years and it really grew up. My M1009 looked like fur had grow on it from the Goldenrod and pollen I knocked loose. 3 big praying mantis and lots of bugs on the hood. We went in at night. The underside was spotless after words and the perfect time to check and clean and undercoat any problem areas I seen. The shackles all survived.

cucvrus said:

I hammer roll pins in to keep them safe. Not 100% but 99 99/100% safe. I would hear that racket if they were hammering them out. Good advise on the tack weld. I do like the rattling when off road. Thru the high weeds it sounds like someone is hitting the front bumper with a hammer. I have a video of a 2 mile trip thru a field that the weeds are roof high in the M1009. Last week we went to check on a property that has been sitting idle for a few years and it really grew up. My M1009 looked like fur had grow on it from the Goldenrod and pollen I knocked loose. 3 big praying mantis and lots of bugs on the hood. We went in at night. The underside was spotless after words and the perfect time to check and clean and undercoat any problem areas I seen. The shackles all survived.

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Roll pins are a great idea! I will do that next time.

Dumb question, what are roll pins?

quick answer from another german CUCV: Spannhülse

when my M1009 is parked at work it is in line of sight, try stealing my shackles and you get a hit with the CAT crawler Loader or the 385C ...

What is the correct size for roll pins ? ( I will buy them before the shackles to have them well secured )

MAZ537 said:

What is the correct size for roll pins ? ( I will buy them before the shackles to have them well secured )

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Hole in pin is about .191 A 3/16x 1.5" seems to fit. CUCVRUS is the expert on this "field expedient" You can buy a selection at Fastenal here in the states. Always cheaper to buy a quantity. Only problem I see is they are hardened and a blow with a cold chisel will break them.

both my M1009 and M1028A1 have full sets of correct shackles and pins with chains.

This is what I did on mine. I know they are not the "correct" shackles but they are OK with me. Also 8.5 ton rated each, they where $50 US apiece but worth it, just tighten up with a large adjustable wrench and your good, you could put a lock im hole in the pin and some thieves would leave it because of the lock(lazy or stupid ones).
Also some correct color on them and they would look correct.

Just figured I'd throw that out there.

I did what cucvlover did above, Im happy with the results. I think I paid $17.99 a piece for mine.

Not to mention, use a big wrench to tighten and the average thief couldn't steel them, unless they have large pipe wrench with them.

welpro222 said:

I did what cucvlover did above, Im happy with the results. I think I paid $17.99 a piece for mine.

Not to mention, use a big wrench to tighten and the average thief couldn't steel them, unless they have large pipe wrench with them.

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17.99? How?

One this is I had to drill out the hole in the tubes, sorry don't remember how big.
I pulled them off the truck to drill them, to much trouble to fight with the hand drill.

Also while the tubes are off its a good time to inspect the mounts and tubes.
I also used lock washers and new nuts on the bolts.

Just my $0:02

My local hardware store had the US made ones for $39.95 I believe and chinese made ones for $17.99. I know, im bad at buying chinese crap, but I only buy cheap if its a non-vital part. They were a direct fit.

Mine are stamped china (of course) and 7/8

Mine are USA made and rated 8.5 tons.

Hope this doesn't count as hijack.

The by-the-TM correct ones are as follows -

Front
Shackle - 19207 US Army/Fed Spec P/N 7358030 NSN 4030-00-088-1881 Replaced with 4030-01-316-2554
Pin - General Motors P/N 14067794 NSN 5315-01-160-4639
Cotter - Mil Std P/N MS24665-497 NSN 5315-00-013-7258

Rear
Shackle - General Motors P/N14067793 NSN 4030-00-542-3183
Pin - General Motors P/N14067794 NSN 5315-01-160-4639
Cotter - Mil Std P/N MS24665-497 NSN 5315-00-013-7258

This is for the pickups and blazers. I never realized the front and rear were different - Although there are likely different P/Ns that come back as nearly identical parts. The OEM one is a straight pin shackle held with a cotter pin. Parttarget.com lists the rear shackle part number as having a 56,550 lbs breaking strength so that should have a hefty safety margin for lifting.

If you ever intend on flat towing keep then removable.