350mi road trip to SD

Well i'm planning on using the towbar to flat tow a deuce with a deuce. I was going to load an M105 into the bed of each deuce also. Question is, should I remove the driveshafts on the towed vehicle to help with towing and to reduce the risk of damage to the drive train? I have heard a lot of guys go both ways on this. I have 3 M35a2s, and 4 M105s to get home from Ft. Riley Ks to South Dakota. It all depends on what the DRMO guys thinks about the driving condition of the trucks. One says starts and runs, one says doesn't start, and the other doesn't say anything other than spedometer missing. I was going to towbar one with the running deuce and see if I can get the other truck running and drive that behind with an M105 attached. I will also have a chase vehicle for flashers and help. I'm going to take my slave cable along and borrow the convoy signs from my unit. Any thoughs on my little convoy.

I pull the drive shafts loose from the rear and front diff and wire them up. Kenny suggested this also.

IMO its much easier to pull the front hubs, and rear axle shafts. Take some duct tape and plastic bags with you.

You can use the Front hubs, as caps for 2 of the rear axles....

Well, lets examine what you are trying to accomplish. We're takling 13050# for a deuice and about 2600# for an M105 so that's `approx15650# each. You will be just shy of 32000#. I can be done with a good running deuce but a marginal running deuce turns this task into a very long day or two. My biggest concern would be the deuces ability to woah, not go. I'd have a very careful looksee at the brake hydraulic system before I'd even think about it. If everything checks out and you feel comfy, go for it but be at the top of your game. Be very alert and very aware of your surroundings. Plan a mile in advance for stops when you can and I always make my stoips at overpasses, not underpasses. The uphill ramp slows you for the stop and the downhill entrance helps get you up to speed. If the unit lets you use the convoy signs, maybe you can borrow a set of tow lights as well. Take plenty of straps, chains and cribbing to sure up the trailers in the bed. M105s can really give you a headache if it comes crashing through the back window. Assuming the second deuce has operable brakes you can rig air to the airpack for a little assist in stopping. As far as drive shafts, I never take them out, don't like laying on my back in a strange area. What I do instead is remove the 4 rear axle shafts and both front drive flanges. Plug the holes with rags or whatever you can scare up. The front drive flanges can be bolted on the back as welll. I've drug 20,000# plus with my tractor before and for a 340 mile ride. Getting up to speed was over a mile but she did the job. Above all else, be careful.

Ive tow barred a at least a few thou miles by now,nuetral trans and neutral transfer is all U need, never pull out anything, they are robust and made to tow bar,I would check ALL fluids... Ive tow barred 400 mi one way to Aberdeen deuce to deuce with a mule in back of towed deuce,You can tow bar alot more than U can carry so put any wieght in the towed deuce.. and back again,Bring one of those little heat detector thingys, and check all your hubs regulary, grab all the u joints by hand and make sure they are all tight, expecially the little jack shaft ,You have alot of spare parts with u in the towed deuce, just look to see all the belts and stuff are in it.. air pressure is probably the most overlooked thing, my personal feeling is 40 in the rears and 45 in the fronts,most important is all even .. and a 45 max speed, although Im sure u will be trying to hit 50 before a hill!! good luck...They handle it fine, its all up to the driver, Hope all goes better than U can expect!!! Randy

Re: RE: 350mi road trip to SD

Recovry4x4 said:

As far as drive shafts, I never take them out, don't like laying on my back in a strange area. What I do instead is remove the 4 rear axle shafts and both front drive flanges. Plug the holes with rags or whatever you can scare up. The front drive flanges can be bolted on the back as welll.

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sorry Kenny. i thought sure you were the one who told me to pull them.

I'm a wheel vehicle mechanic in the military so I know how to check brakes and see if the booster has the new upgrade. I had an older deuce blow out the brake switch on the booster and I had no brakes. That wasn't fun. Pipe plug in the hole and I was back in buisness. I'm going to talk to the site manager and see what I can find out about the trucks and I am going to have a friend with a semi truck in stand-by incase they break down or decide that they aren't drivable from Ft. Riley. I am going to rig up a beacon for the lead deuce and the chase vehicle with flashers. I planned on 45 top speed for safety and so the towing deuce doesn't have to work so hard. I think I will remove the drive shafts rather than the axles. I don't need snow, slush, or road debris working it's way into the openings. I'm sure with my luck the duct tape or bags will come loose and then I will have worse problems. It all depends on the condition of the trucks down there to see if I will convoy back or just buck up and pay to have them hauled. I will be sure to take pics for you guys. Is there anything else anyone has for advice or to watch out for. Thanks guys.

No worries Dave, as you can see, lots of folks with plenty of know how approach things differently. I have caps for the rear hubs which makes pulling shafts easier. Also helps in the fact that worrying about gear oil is a non issue as is tire matching. Then again, if I only had a few hundred miles to go I might just leave them alone but all my towing trips are 1000 miles or more.

The brake tips are the best, no need to even start if there is a hint of brake trouble, I would and do look closely at all the inner tires and bottom, if sitting for awhile , of inner rims for any signs of brake fluid leaks this seams to be the most common deuce wheel to the floor failer ,and for that matter bleeding the brakes will also freshen em up and give a story of what to expect. that would be for under 500 miles... and having experience, and i will say there is always soething out there to give NEW experience, a thousand mile tow or near that, would be a full day of prep at least, and a test run then alot of recheck, ...Randy