New pushrods still popping

Well I put the new push rods in and adjusted everything up and still have the popping. So now the head has to come off. Does anyone have a good parts source for gaskets or know of any "tricks" I should watch out for during this head r&r?

Thanks- Pappa-g

I'm sure clinto will chime in for this one.

Pappa-G, you sure you got the cross head adjusted correctly? They will pop in the intake if it isn't set right. Did you check the cam follower for the pin breaking? If you are sure all is good, PM me and I can send you a head gasket and related parts, or, you can go to Pete, KW, IHC, etc, and get a single head gasket set. I have a head, but the shipping would be too much, they weigh 90#. You are better off getting one locally.

Will,
I checked the cam follower first thing both the intake and exhaust and they made a nice metalic "wack" when dropped. I thought that I got the cross head adjusted correctly, but now that I think of it while it was running the exhaust valve cross head was wondering on the valves beneath the rocker. I will verify that is indeed correct tomorrow.
Thanks

What engine, vehicle are we talking about here?

Sorry Cummins NHC-250 in a M818 for back ground see (popping through intake) in this section. I started a new thread because the other one got off track.

If the x-head is walking around on the valves, that means it's out of adjustment. If it is too far out, one of the valves will start moving before the other and make a "pop" in the intake or exhaust....late valve timing...That takes about 1/8 of an inch clearance between the two valves to happen. If the x-head is just moving and not making a big clicking noise, it should be OK on the adjustment.

Looks llike the head is comming off.
Thanks again- Pappa-g

Got the head back from the shop today it had bad guides on the intake on the missfiring cyl. also the intale valves were replaced and the head was milled .006 with any luck it will be back on Thursday afternoon.

Ok, every thing whent back together fine except for the fact that the dial indicator couldnt reach the injector. So we went with the torque method for adjusting the nontopstop injectors but the TQ wrench didnt go to the required 5-6lb-in . So is there any other way to adjust these? Or Do I need to find a better dial ind?

Pappa-G, you're doin' it wrong. Non topstops, do both the valves and injectors on the same cyilinder.
A-1 or 6.
B- 2 or 5.
C- 3 or 4
Injectors set at 68 to 72 inch pounds. The injector will be at the BOTTOM of the stroke when you adjust it, you will be bottoming the plunger in the cup of the injector. Both valves should be loose on the one you are adjusting. .014 for intake, .027 on the exhaust. Do the injector first, then the valves. Jamb nuts torque to 45 ft. lb. Call me if you get in a bind. 626-840-1751.
Will

Super long story short;
Got it fixed. Bent push rod in cylinder#5 (I'll try and post a picture). I cant follow simple directions. Will wagner saved my bacon! (thanks again Will!) Once I had talked to Will it took 30 minutes to adjust all the valves and injectors. Started up and ran fine. Put a pyrometer on the exhaust manifold all cylinders read within 15degrees of each other.

Thanks to every one for helping out!!
~ Pappa-G