getting my first deuce! have some questions!

howdy! i am possibly getting my first deuce this week! i have always been a fan and came across a good deal i don't think i can pass up!

i have been browsing your forum for a few days now trying to gather as much info as i can, but there's so much good info on here, it's hard to keep track of it all! you guys know your stuff!

so here's the deal... i build and race honda racecars as my hobby, so i have NO experience with vehicles like the m35. i was hoping that ya'll could give me a list of things to check before i drive it home! (i have no clue about what oils to use, etc!)

it is a 1967 kaiser jeep 2.5ton. it starts up and seems to run good!

any help is appreciated!

thanks,
Hunter

Brake fluid! Check the brake fluid always. It doesn't have a dual circuit master cylinder and when it runs low or something breaks, you have zero brakes. If its still military it will have BFS (silicone brake fluid) in it. Other than that its all pretty much common sense. I would suggest getting at least the owners manual and reading it repeatedly to become familiar with its operation. Manuals are available from a variety of sources and even on CD in PDF format. There will be tons of other questions and we will be happy to answer them but we cant answer all of them at once (LOL). Good luck and get a manual,
TM 9-2320-361-10 is the most recent!

Things I've noticed driving the deuce.......

The driver sits closer to the centerline of the vehicle than in a normal car or truck, so, drive using your mirrors untill you get the hang of it, you'll have a natural tendancy to drive too far to the left of your lane. If oncoming traffic starts diving for the shoulder when you approach, CHECK YOUR MIRRORS, you're probably over the line.

Keep your speed low and under control, 35mph is the maximum safe speed I'll drive on secondary roads, and 50mph for freeway driving. Remember, it's a LOT of iron, and it can't stop on a dime, and don't try using the engine to brake it's speed, it's not built to be shifted like a sportscar. The redline starts at 2500 rpm And like 4x4 said, make sure the brakes WORK before going anywhere and that the tanks hold air

Familiarize yourself with the light switches, they are unlike ANYTHING you've seen before, and require a series of switch flips to activate headlights, turn signals, etc. You DON'T want to be driving somthing that big down a street without being able to give other motorists the courtesy to know what you're about to do.

There is NO power steering, so when you're ready to turn, cut that wheel like you mean it! Once you have made the turn, the wheel is pretty good about returning to "neutral" all by itself

THe gearshift pattern is a little tricky, 1-2-3 are your standard dogleg pattern, but 4-5 are "flipped" from normal

R 2 5
1 3 4

I almost stalled it a few times when I went for what I thought was 4th, but got 5th instead

The cab is very noisy, so for extended trips of 30 minutes or more, ear protection is a must unless you want a headache, double for the passenger

awesome! thanks for your quick replies!

it will definantly take some getting used to driving something this big as i am used to honda racecars... <img src="emoticons/icon_smile_approve.gif" alt="Approve">

i have driven a few dump trucks, so i assume that will be close to driving the m35.

also, check the brake fluid? i thought it was equipped with air brakes? (please be kind if this is a stupid question, remember, i know NOTHING about these vehicles!) <img src="emoticons/icon_smile_shrug.gif" alt="Shrug"> haha

Air-over-hydraulic brakes, it has both

Yup. air over hydraulics! There is an inspection plate on the floor just behind the acc pedal. Remove the screw and it hinges open. Inside there is a screw on lid (behind the floor crossmember) that must be removed to check fluid. It requires a 3/4 open wrench but there is also a steel vent line that needs to be unscrewed before the MC cap is unscrewed. Sounds like a hassle but I can't emphasize enough how important this check is. Also for those new to BFS, you can check your fluid by taking some out and mixing it with water. If it mixes to any degree, its DOT 3. If it doesn't mix at all than its DOT 5 (BFS).

thanks for the info!

so should i be using dot3 or 5? or either one will work and i just check to see which kind is already in there and add more?

also, BFS stands for? <img src="emoticons/icon_smile_reyes.gif" alt="Reyes">

Use whats there for right now. If it's got DOT 3 than its been changed. The military uses DOT 5. BFS is the term that you will see in all of the Lube Orders. Brake Fluid, SIlicone! Same as DOT 5 available at finer auto parts stores. Also consider looking into getting some BFS from a surplus source. A gallon runs around $75 or more in the store. Dealers sell surplus for around $30 a gallon. Do you need a gallon? You probably will. I bought my first gallon and considered it a lifetime supply. Haha, no chance! Takes lots to bleed a deuce system after overhaul.

I bought my first gallon and considered it a lifetime supply. Haha, no chance! Takes lots to bleed a deuce system after overhaul.

Click to expand...

LOL. funny how fast you can go through that stuff, especially when you have your own motor pool<img src="emoticons/icon_smile_approve.gif" alt="Approve"> Idaho Motor Pool used to have tons of the silicone at a good price.

Hunter;
Check JT's thread. It's a very complete list of what you need to do. I'm working on making it a sticky note for all newbies.

i'm guessing you're talking about the "getting it running in 4hrs" thread... i saw that! had lots of good info!

thanks fellas!

Originally posted by Recovry4x4

Also consider looking into getting some BFS from a surplus source. A gallon runs around $75 or more in the store. Dealers sell surplus for around $30 a gallon. Do you need a gallon? You probably will. I bought my first gallon and considered it a lifetime supply. Haha, no chance! Takes lots to bleed a deuce system after overhaul.

Click to expand...

DO THIS. Because if you don't you will end up like me paying $8.49 for 12 ounces. I dumped all 24 ounces I had into it at the DRMO and it still was not full. AND it needs bled.