What should a decent M35A3 cost?

Hi,

Been looking for a M35A3 and found one near my home. As I walked around it I found little wrong with it, solid engine, driveline , tires. It doe not have a winch. It did have good metal floor, including floors, roof, which was insulated, doors etc. Bed on the back was in decent shape. It has insulated metal roof, air/heater that both seem to work, from what I can tell its been rebuilt at Army depot on 1990. I have not driven it yet only stated it and moved it forward and back. I was the only one ther and the owner was not around, figured he did not want me taking it for a ride, yet!

I could use some help understanding what a truck like this should run price wise and what else I shold look at when I go back torrow for a closer look. Oh there was notprice listed on the truck just a number to call.

Thanks
Rusty

An M35A3 might bring between $7000 and $15000.

An A3 in good shape would bring an easy 12-16K, big diffrence in that and a A2 when it comes to dollars.

I have heard that parts for them are harder and alot more expensive to get, top speed is lower than an A2, you probably wont be able to register it as historical, and the
CTIS can be problematic but they are very cool and I would love to have one. Just throwing a few other things to think about. Keep us posted with pics.

I had a chance to look at the unit up close.

Hello again,

So it seems my dad was right when he said I don;t know my M35A2's from my M35A3's. (Of course he did not say it exactly this way..) What was looking at was a M35A2. I got a chance to crawl thru it today and found that is was rebuilt on 9/90 with a mileage of 8671. Now the mileage indicator says 3007, hour meter was 359. Do they turn them back when rebuilding or was it fiddled with?

The engine tag says it can use multiple variant fuels except aviation gasoline. The engine and drive line were fairly free of leaks, with some weeps. No major slop in drive lines that I could tell. Mechanically all the parts are on this unit with no modifications that I could find. About the only things I could find that did not work were the passenger window did not go down and the parking brake handle was frozen in the off position.

All the gauges worked when I started it two days ago. so I figured I'd try and start it today with the temps about 32F. I turned the ignition on and immediately got the low air horn, which told me that worked. I cranked it for about 15 seconds with intake heater button pushed and it tried to start but would not catch. I did this 2 times and got it to fire but it would not stay running. Is there a different recommended method for starting in colder weather? If not then do I assume the engine is worn out?

I was not able to talk to the owner but was told by the lot guy that the owner is asking 6,800 or best offer.


So I ask again for your input on what you think this machine is worth. Thanks for your patience as I learn about older army trucks.

Rusty

Yes pull the throttle out about 3-4 clicks. Should fire right up

Thanks for the advice

Thanks I'll try that later today. It's only getting colder today so this till be a good test.

Rusty

6800 is a bit pricey, closer to half that is getting closer to right .

I was told that 3500 was too much to ask and that was for a winch truck with the back sides, tops and cover

I would NOT use the hand throttle. Just push the pedle down a little, you only need enought to bring the idle up to 900-1000 NO more than that until it warms up some and get oil pres.
On the hand throttle 3-4 click mite be fine for one truck but on another it mite be close to red line. The last thing you want to do to a cold eng is start it at wide open throttle, thats how you get the nice window in the side of the block.