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Wiring up stuff (lights)

rmgill

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So I bought some nice hella work lights from a local truck parts place that had them for $7 each. Looking around online seems like a good deal. Rubber mounted H3 bulbs. He even had 24 volt bulbs there at the store.

So, my plan now is to mount one facing rearwards under the bed and two facing forwards under the bumper or some place. Anyone have any suggestions?

Question is how to wire them up and where to tap. At 70 watts for each bulb, 2 for up front, that's like 60 amps. They're floods so they need a separate switch for when I want to switch from "high beams" to "Blinding!". Obviously Saturnsurplus has switches, but those, plus the mounts and I'm up to $40 for two switches and some bits of metal. :shock: The switches are more than the lights they're powering. Add in a circuit breaker and I'm up to $50 before I get wiring and connectors. Ack. There has to be a cheaper but still proper way here.

Does Memphis or someone else carry these switches cheaper than Saturn does?

Also, whats the best source for the water proof connectors to wire it up right?
 

cranetruck

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Ryan, use mil spec relay(s) to do the actual switching.
A typical 25 amp Leach relay can handle the 10 amps of lamp load if you use 24 volt bulbs in your application.
You will need a 50 amp relay if you use 12 volts.
They are often up for sale/auction on ebay. Keywords: Leach aircraft relay.
Any standard toggle switch may be used to energize the relay.
Use a 15 to 20 amp circuit breaker.
Each one of these items may run $10 to $12.
Here is a pic of my headlight relay, which I used to reduce the load on the 3-lever light switch. It may be difficult to see, but it's down there with terminals sticking out. (it's a 50 amp relay). The circuit breaker is slightly to the left.
I have the Packard connectors if you need some.
 

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rmgill

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On the way home, I kind of got to thinking that rather than an individual switch panel per device, it'd be nice to just install a small panel with 3-4 toggles on it.

Aux front floods
Rear flood
Internal dome
something else (I'll think of an extra function that'd be nice)

If I just put two bulbs on the front or rear floods, it's only 3 amps per, 6 amps total. Not too bad. Put it all on one 20 amp main bus for that entire set (won't be running the rear and front at the same time) and it should work. Upgrade to a 30 amp if I need.
 

Clem1226

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be careful if you mount them under the bumper, it will be a lot easier to smash them than it looks.
 

rmgill

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Hmm, where to put them? I could make some guards that bolt up under there as well, just inside of where that footstep is. Kinda think the foot step needs to be longer (a bar on 2 heavy cables like on utility service trucks?).
 

clinto

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You know the bumper steps that pivot up and down (as opposed to the welded or bolted on style)?

You could mount the lights on a couple of those steps and then pivot them in and out of position as needed.

I think there are some on ebay right now, at Frank's Surplus (I think-don't hold me to it).
 

cranetruck

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Not exactly my favorite truck, but here is the FMTV 2-1/2 ton M1078A1 with holes in the bumper.
I don't agree with lights and stuff in the bumper, but if you can't make it better, make it differently. :twisted:
Note the wire rope steps on the sides.
 

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Armada

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That's exactly where I would mount them. I've got a pair of brackets too, but they will have to be modified to fit the mil spec floodlights though.
 

Armada

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Bjorn, any idea where one might get one of those lights? Nothing available in the boneyards in this neck of the woods. I've been looking for one to mount on my truck for quite some time. Jones is going to check Barstow for me when gets back there.

Paul
 

cranetruck

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Well, dang! I must have gotten the last one. :)
Did see one on ebay last year and it went for over $100, could't believe it.
Another possibility is Howard's in KY. Perhaps Hookin1 can check for you.
 

cranetruck

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Have been using two of the 12 volt, 4-1/2" ones for back-up lights. Removed them when the bed
was changed and have to put them back along with a few other odds and ends.
Used them in series for the 24 volt system.
 
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