1 micron

Is it REALLY necessary to filter used engine oil down to one micron to burn in our multifuel engines? Will 3 micron do?

I would say yes, others say no. I pump my wmo through a deuce secondary/final filter from the side of a motor and then to a 5micron absolute filter spin on. Been doing it for a long time.

I have been going down to 5 micron, the trucks filters are 10. I would say the cleaner the better but with diesel at $2.50 a gallon you will reach the point of diminishing returns pretty quick.

is there a napa or ? number for the low micron spin on type of filter, All I have found is down to 10 micron

I don't know that you want to go lower than 10m on the motor, lower might restrict the fuel flow and make the IP work harder (I don't know that for sure, I'm just not a fan of fixing what isn't broken). I was referring to pre-filtering WMO before adding it to the fuel tank.

I centrifuge first then I use a 1 micron sock. The problem with WMO is the carbon in it. Carbon is abrasive. Causes wear to IP's.
I read somewhere, if the oil can sit for 2 years the carbon will fall out. I don't know.....I use it as fast as I can make it.
I run 2 vehicles on GKW.

Diesel also has a degree of carbon in it. What's GKW?

Yes Diesel probably does have some carbon in it. But in WMO you can see it....and a lot of it.
GKW=God Knows' What
Waste Veg Oil
Waste Moter Oil
Trans Fluid
Old Gas
Old mixed Gas
ect,ect,ect.........

The oil from my Deuce looks chalky (black chalk)

Why don't you pass that used oil through a Frantz filter to get it cleaned?

Or is the mention of a Frantz Filter heresy?

I've read nothing but good things about them.

Pawnshop said:

I have been going down to 5 micron, the trucks filters are 10. I would say the cleaner the better but with diesel at $2.50 a gallon you will reach the point of diminishing returns pretty quick.

Click to expand...

Not to be nitpicking, but the original Purolator/Facet filter elements are 4 micron nominal, 15 absolute (P/N 053161-04). The primary water separator/filter is 40 microns...

Problem(s) with used engine oil may not be apparent after only a few thousand miles and there is also the possibility of water and glycol not to mention pollution problems. Look at an analysis report of the WMO and see for yourself.

Divemaster920 said:

Yes Diesel probably does have some carbon in it. But in WMO you can see it....and a lot of it.
GKW=God Knows' What
Waste Veg Oil
Waste Moter Oil
Trans Fluid
Old Gas
Old mixed Gas
ect,ect,ect.........

Click to expand...

Are there recommendations on ratios when burning "MultiFuels"?
Diesel:WMO
Diesel:WVeggieOil
Diesel:Whiskey
Diesel:Gasoline
Dieselorta-PottyJuice
Etc. Etc. Etc.

I have been known to change oil in one of my vehicles and pour the used oil right into a deuce fuel tank......no probs so far in any truck.
There are three filters on the deuce......I figure that the fuel is pretty clean by the time it gets to the IP.
Your milage may vary.

cranetruck said:

Not to be nitpicking, but the original Purolator/Facet filter elements are 4 micron nominal, 15 absolute (P/N 053161-04). The primary water separator/filter is 40 microns..

Click to expand...

gimpyrobb said:

I would say yes, others say no. I pump my wmo through a deuce secondary/final filter from the side of a motor and then to a 5micron absolute filter spin on. Been doing it for a long time

Click to expand...

I've read a lot of threads about this over the past few months, and I'm glad Bjorn finally posted the information I was looking for. This has been brought up many many times in the past, maybe not in such a direct question, but the "depth"/level of filtration has been covered a lot.

I agree with Bjorn about the possibility of other problems with WMO as a fuel, but I intend to run some of it, or a lot of it depending on sources, anyway. What I have been searching for is the actual filtering specifications of the OEM filters that the engines are supposed to have.

I've read a lot of threads about having super tight clearances in the IP and needing to absolutely use a certrifuge for WMO and blah blah blah. What I'm getting at is this, if the original engineers that designed and built these engines felt that filtration down to 4 microns with an absolute filtration point of 15 microns for the fuel as stated by Bjorn above was sufficient, why do we as "joe the armchair engineer" feel we must go one step further and second guess their original design?

I'm with gimpyrobb, what I'm going to do is to run my WMO through probably 3 filters all at once, maybe start out with a water separator filter in the neighborhood of 40 microns or so, then see if I can find another water separator filter down to 10 to 15 microns or so, then finish off with a 5 micron absloute final filtering. The two water saparators should ensure clean dry WMO free from glycol and water, hopefully. And the final 5 micron absolute filter should make the WMO clean enough for the trucks onboard filters to catch anything else I might have missed. Just my

I prefilter my WMO through a 5 micron filter then poor it into the tank with a 50/50 ratio to diesel. Seems to work just fine. Been doing it for a short while with no problems and the truck seems to pull better than when I ran straight diesel . My little brother has been doing the same thing in his 84 F350 for about a year with no problems. The more you can filter it the better, but as long you're getting down to 10 microns or less before its in your tank, you should be fine.

I would dump it right in the tank of my deuce. WMO and used ATF. Just have to change the filters twice a year but at a cost of 15 bucks of so I still come out way ahead. Never had a problem sense 2004 and she is still running strong.

Pawnshop said:

The oil from my Deuce looks chalky (black chalk)

Click to expand...

Black Chalk, that may be a precurser to a coolant leak, with the loss of a shiny look to the oil. Typically contaminated oil looks like foamy chockolate to foamy licorice looking. Could be insuficient warm-up time causing condensation, but if it starts changing color to the browns, thats a red flag, so keep an eye on it. One tale-tale thing to look for such as a bad head-gasket are slight bubbling in the radiator with the cap off. You should be able to see it clearly as pressure is forced from the cylinder through the leaking gasket into the waterjacket and out to the filler snout.