Lusterless forest green

Well I am going to re-do the camo on my truck in an effort to get the pattern more historically correct to the original 4 color MERDC pattern of the '70s.

I have seen some trucks that look a little shiney.... I was wondering if the paint on the 4 color pattern is actually flat ? Or is this more of a satin finish?

What exactly is "lusterless" suppose to be?
( I thought it was flat, but now I am not sure)

I plan on having the paint mixed locally to save on haz-mat charges and I want to make sure I get it right .

Thanks, Nick

Well, can't help you with the MERDC pattern question, but I can say that the 34052 USMC Lusterless Forest Green on my vehicles (M37, M3 is actually "flat"... Only spot on either vehicle that is approaching a "satin" finish is where I've spilled a little fuel when filling them up...
I don't think anyone will give you too much grief if you are a little shiny.. Just tell them that you wiped it down for inspection...

Great,

Thanks for the reply.....

Nick

flat, or lusterless is VERY hard to keep clean and less durable and rust preventative than semi or gloss

Clean, why would I want to keep it clean??? Seiously, they tend to look a little dusty/muddy at times, but they do wash up fairly well when I get the urge.... Rust hasn't been a problem, but since the lusterless is more porrus than the higher gloss paints, I just make sure that I have six or seven total coats including the primer. Last couple of years, I've been known to shoot the primer, then an OD coat made out of a 1:1 ratio of Rustoleum Hunter Green and Leather Brown, then to overtop with a couple coats of Gillespie 34052... Seems to work really well, and the Rustoleum is less expensive (local sourcing, no shipping) and is less permeable (using the gloss paints...) so I have a bit of a vapor barier.

Thanks for the advice mcinfantry.

The truck has three complete coats of a Sherwin Williams primer designed for industrial enamal. I forget the name of the stuff but I was told by others that have used it that they have left there projects in this primer for 4 years outdoors with no rust. ( I have pleanty of picks on this site of my restoration to date, If you get time take a look at NICKS '77 in the photo gallery)

As far as the clean up goes I understand what you are saying. The truck is currently a flat finish, even the rubber hose at the car wash has left a black mark.

I am trying to get this truck as historically accurate as I can. so If it was flat in the '70s then it will be flat when I get done with it. I just want to make sure I get it right.

To me, Its all about taking it somewhere and having someone say "man that truck is just like the one I use to drive"

Nick

http://brochures.slosh.com/
This place has a part in it that tells you where all the colors go from the smallest MV to the largest

KENNY,

Great site.... thanks for the info.

Nick

I put the new bridge plate on the truck today and took the truck to the store to look at tires,. as I am getting out this guy comes up to me and says: " you know you have a reverse lite out? I know they get on you guys for that, at least they did when I was in... I dont want to see you get into trouble. )

I thanked him , went on my way and then thought to myself... this guy must think I am still in the service.

so I took this new inspiration and started to sand down the troop seats that are in need of attention. Let me tell you I wish I had a dentist appointment instead. what a mess I made with the angle grinder and a wire brush.

however.... one down and one to go

On Sept 11 I went to make a left turn, oncoming traffic came to a tire smoking stop. I felt like a heel, slid a little lower in the seat and made the turn.
I've had this truck since '93 and have never washed it except underneath, it just never seems to look any different than it did when I got it. It has faded out some though and I'm soaking up all the knowledge I can before starting on the new paint.
Best thing I did for the woodwork was to install the cargo-cover.