questions regarding fuel line

couldn't find specifics on this............

GL crushed the fuel line on my truck that runs from the primary filter to the IP that runs under the radiator.

it's 1/2 copper line. i planned to replace it with another from a different truck but that isn't really panning out, so....

1. what is the piping size that comes out of the primary filter for the 90 degree fitting?
2. what kind of connections do they use? they certainly aren't single flares......
3. what is the piping size for the fitting coming off the bottom of the IP?

i'm thinking of redoing it with standard brass single flare unions and was hoping i could get away with plumbing it with my propane fittings.

if not, what tools and pieces will i need to plumb it back up like it was? i'm the charlie daniels of the single flaring tool but i don't know anything about this............have plenty of tubing and a bender though.

also, will 3/8 propane vapor rated rubber hose be fine for diesel?

Air line from any truck stop is what was being grafted into my truck when i took delivery of her from MissNG.

nobody?

how about some pictures then? hopefully of the ends of that particular fuel line and maybe the primary fuel filter housing without the 90 degree fitting in it.............

fittings are 3/8" pipe thread. just use air brake line and they are not flare, they are compression fittings. the line you are doing is 1/2" and you can reuse all the fittings with air brake line.

I would not use rubber on that line, it will siphon if it breaks. I have seen compression and flare as these trucks have been around. Flare has better vibration resistance. Replace with like materials, they are industry standard.

Yes, the engine has some poly lines but these are above the tank level and will not siphon.

which of these are yall calling a compression fitting?

http://www.jbhardin-gallery.com/trucks/flare6.jpg

http://www.calormarineshop.co.uk/boat_diy/images/compression_fitting_3.jpg

sure looks like a double flare to me but i'll probably change it over to single flare just because that's what i know...

I replaced my front fuel line. I spliced a section of good line with compression fittings leaving the good portions in place that were part of the original damaged line. Some may say this is cheating to not replace the whole thing, but I cannot see where it actually makes a difference as long as it does not leak and is installed properly. I doubt anyone will pickup the front of my truck with a loader or forklift anytime soon as that was how it was damaged in the first place.


RL

The fuel lines on my deuce are copper; (at least the ones from the tank to the primary and the primary to the secondary filters). I would guess the logic is that the line will "crush" and seal before rupturing and leaking fuel. Also, the copper does not precipitate rust and other debris like Steel lines would into the fuel system.

I would also wager that ease of repair in the field is of upmost importance as a damaged line that cannot be repaired easily will leave several soldiers high and dry, or else some critical cargo in a dangerous and possibly vulnerable place.

When I got my truck, delivered by our friend, JATONKA, his advice was to replace the crushed copper with copper. Many years ago, I learned to respect those who obviously have more experience than I, so I did as I was advised to do.

You can do what you want to, but I would recommend replacing the copper with copper.

RL

Copper was the industry standard back when these were made. It has since gone the way of the DoDo, but is still available. If you have access to Aeroquip or Strattoflex braided line and fittings, use that. If you have access to Synflex line..the plastic stuff used on fuel and brake systems today..and the fittings, use that. You can splice damaged line, but DOT doesn't like to see that kinda stuff, so, hopefully you won't meet up with any of those people. The 2nd pic you posetd is a compression fitting, the first is a flare. Go to NAPA or some other HD truck place like Pete, Mack, KW, Navistar, etc. Bring a section of line and ask for some of the plastic equivalent and the fittings. The fittings in the filter heads will have the same threads on the line end so you won't need to change them. The nuts will look different but will fit fine. make sure you install the sleeves inside the line before you tighten the nuts. Also make sure you secure the line. It isn't so rigid as the copper, so it will flop around. The plastic stuff is tough. I have seen it rub holes in METAL things before the line has even a wear mark on it.