Hate to post YET another CUCV electrical Q?

My # 2 alternator went bad (hard starting and dash volt gauge in the low side and "NO" #2 alt light), I had both alternator bench tested at an electric motor rebuilder place; #1 was OK and putting out 14+ volts, I had both alternators rebuilt to new specs: Delco #1100500 -12v. with isolated ground #2 alternator with NEW brushes, bearings, regulator and rectifier and just to be shure (since I last had the #1 alternator rebuilt in '04 when I first purchase the truck with a bad front 6TL batterie) I had the #1 rebuilt, he ended replasing the brushes, bearings, regulator & ROTOR(?) the rebuider said that the volts started going up and down. My #2 batterie was dead. so I took both batteries out added destiled water and slowly charged over night with a automatic Schumaker charger 2-8-12 amp from Walmart since I was going to rotated the batteries anyway. Both batteries purchased in August '04 at Walmart's = MAXX-1N 1000ca and 875cca, I had also installed a 24v. Solargizer mantainer IS-24-L 735x150 (Neg - to front and Poss + to rear batterie as told by the Solargizer tech advisor) After chargind both batteries and checking the individual cells ( OK = 1245 or better with a gravity tester) Figured it was a good time to replase the accesorie belts & clean all connections: cables, grounds, GP relay, GP conectors, coolant temp, glow plug temp sensor (needs to be replased, the wait light come on even after running at normal temp.) the rear most glow plug on both driver and passenger sides were bad yet again this is the 3rd. time that I've had problems with the same possition glow plugs: the original AC13g, the second set of Wellmans G070 and now their AC13g replasements the passenger side rear most glow plug is a bit cross treated but I can screw it by hand 1 or 2 turns before having to use a socket. I have 14.47 at batterie terminal on #1 alternator 14.49 v. at #2 alternator ground coming from #1 (with the condenser), and 28-29 v. at #2 alternator that goes to 2nd. possitive lug on the terminal board. Today it was in the low 50* and she started first try but after a 30 miles ride I notice that I had fuid (Acid) around both batteries, I check the voltage on both batteries runing about 14.47v and not runing 13.1 front and 12.92 rear and that is when I notice that the rear GP are bad again. forget to mention the GP relay(solenoid) simens to be working OK, but it stays on for a bit to long after the truck is running (1 minute or 2), the voltage gauge is at the upper end of the green scale after the wait cycle is over. I also have the correct voltage at the input and output side of the resistor as well as at the GP relay before and after the cycle. I am not shure what else to look for. You advise would be welcome, thanks before hand.

sounds good to me

The small block Chevy is the same way. takes out the rear plugs a lot faster. You can try going to a lower t stat.. like a 180. that will help some.

1- I will try the lower temp thermostat, I had being told that the hoter one was better for fuller emmisions burning. I do not have a temp gauge but I have always felt that at slow speds(4X4) she may be running hoter then I would like her too
2- The last 2 sets of GP's, the Welmans (installed one month ago) and the new AC13g installed this past week before installing back the alternators and the recondition batteries and with less then 40 miles including todays 30+ miles trip. I am not shure why the battery acid is coming out, I refilled the batteries to the botton of plastic inner marker. Is it possible for batteries to test "OK" for volts and gravity and still be bad ? I do not have a load tester and I am wondering if the freshly recondition batteries with the rebuilt alternators may be hidding a week or bad batterie since the #2 alternator at failure was spiking to 30+ volts. Sorry if I am fishing (for lack of a better term) but I am not that well verse in electromotives and my brain is fried from reading. Thank You, for your input.

Follow up

Today will removing the two know bad Glow-Plugs the rearmost on the passenger side broke the tip off. I'am not shure what to do now?
Even if I catch the straigh end with a magnet and manage to line it with the hole, I daught it is going to come out any easier now that it is not attach to the G.P. head. I am not liking the possibiltys of a head removal and all that is involved, way out of my league. Any suggestions?

Hey allrevup: Could you Please use some paragraphs next time, it is extremely hard to read and gives people a migraine the way you typed it. Thanks very much.

Sorry about my gramar davo727. Any advise about how to remove the tip via the injector hole?

Desided to be safer then sorry and went ahead and after removing the rear #8 injector with the broken GP tip with a loaner injector tool and a long surgical nedlee nose, (not that bad after removing the rear batterie tray and lifting the engine on the passenger side) to do everithing electric, with the parts I had gathered for future use;
NEW GM control card and wire hardness,
ST45 isolated relay,
NEW fuel return rubbers hosses and clamps,
NEW HD relays (X-5),
NEW AC 40 starter relay,
NEW fuse block fuses,
NEW coolant sensor & pig tails,
NEW engine temp sensor,
NEW AC13g Glow plugs (latter I may replase then back to Wellmans G070 as they did not swell as bad as the AC 13g
Gates HD belts, heater and radiator & vacum hosses,
NEW GM 185* thermostat,
replaced or clean and cover with dielectic grease prety much All terminals, cleeps and connections, replace all star washers etc. etc.
replace the original starter bolts with New GM bolts and instaled with Locktight and added with some modifications a Humvee starter support braket,
New HD Batterie cables terminals they look OK but, I will make new ones in the future.
Rebuilt alternators
NEW heater control plates and chrome tips
install a industrial hour meter
NEW pair of Deka group 31 batteries. "Walmart" would not Honor the warranty= 3 years replasement- 9 years prorated on the MAXX-1N 1000ca/875cca, (becouse they no longer carry it and they said "it was not for a recomended application" B__S___ they sold then to me in "04 based on recuired specs any way. The coustumer servise at "Everstart" the manufacturer were very help full and said, that I could get the equivalent at any Central Tractor Store, but I found a great deal on two just arrived Dekas.
Maybe now I can work on the few body rinkles and a Mil-Specs paint job hoppefully by spring when my $$ account recovers.
Thanks to ALL for your input.